'07 Prius w/ 62k miles & service records: bad idea?

Welcome to PriusChat!!

What is the asking price for both the high and low mileage vehicles?

What is your projected annual mileage and usage patterns?

Either of those original OEM hv batteries might last another 50k, after performing a top balance using a 'grid charger'.

There are other expensive failures that can arise besides the HV battery, are you expecting or factoring for such possibilities?

 

There are two kinds of gen 2 vehicles, those that have had the HV battery fail and those that will but when?

You will definitely want to read the link my signature.

 

Service records are invaluable. A regularly serviced car with all records is definitely worth buying.

As for the hybrid battery, from my research some (approximately 3% of gen 2 Prii) will start failing after 10 years, and there is presumably an increasing risk with age after that, although there isn’t a lot of information on very old 2nd gen Prii to tell. For those whose battery failed that I was able to find, mileage was almost universally over 100,000 and the median was around 150,000 and mean was 160,000, although some were over 300,000 miles when that occurred. So while each individual car is different, the odds would say you have a good chance of having your hybrid battery last at least another 100,000 miles if you get the one with the service records.

Another thing I would recommend when buying any Prius in 2020 is having a catalytic converter shield installed as soon as you buy the vehicle. Catalytic converters have been getting stolen left and right recently, and they cost as much as a hybrid battery to replace.

 

While there are several expensive items that can fail (the most likely being the $2500 multifunction display), I stand by my previous comment that regularly serviced cars are always worthwhile, and they tend to be significantly more reliable in every respect than cars of similar age and miles that are not regularly serviced.

It is, however, always a good idea to have a repair budget for any car. A perfect vehicle does not exist.

 

With 62k, you could be mostly safe for another 50k.

Use a newer version of Techstream (lower duty cycle during bleeding process) to flush the old fluid from all the brake lines, do a top charge on the HV battery, a dump and fill with ATF-WS on the transaxle, and run a dose of Chevron Techron Concentrate Plus (or similar known PEA-containing fuel system cleaner product like Gumout Regane, Redline SI-1, Amsoil Performance Improver, and BG Products 44K) in the tank to clean up the injectors and other bits.

That battery should be fine after a top charge with a grid charger, the catalytic with those miles should be fine if it doesn't get stolen or contaminated with oil, and once the ATF-WS fluid is changed, the transaxle shouldn't implode unless you try pushing it on a long hill with a low HV battery. Then the weakest link could be the brake accumulator, does it run excessively or make any barking/chirping type sounds?

Just to eliminate any shenanigans, cross check the history by running the VIN @ Track Your Service Records with Your Toyota Owners Account

 

What changed in the brake bleeding process? Is this something that happened recently with Techstream? I have done the brake fluid changes in 3 of my hybrids with a three year old Techstream version 12.20.024 and I was planning to change brake fluid on my 2006 Prius this week again. Do I need to update the software?

 

Did a decent search for the 'version change history' and couldn't find it, only for the most recent update.

Basically had read that many versions ago toyota changed the bleeding procedure to lessen the duty cycle load on the brake pump. You should be fine with any version of TS, just go slow (if possible) and pause while bleeding if you're concerned about the possibility of trashing or doing additional wear and tear to the accumulator/actuator. Hope that makes sense.

 

I will keep that in mind. Usually, my concerns are if the 12v battery will make it thru the process and if I need to connect a charger. Now, I will also look out for the infamous actuator to make it.