Knocking noise

Please do not put that money in this car.

 

With 225K+ miles, I would not think they'll give you much of a discount on this repair. List price for part 44500-47141 is $1716. Labor charge would be scary for this job at a dealer, my guess about $1000 ($150 x 6 or 7 hours).

So the dealer will most likely scare you off with a high bill and offer to buy your car for $500 and then get you into a new car

You can buy this new part online for about $1200 and pay an independent mechanic about $300-$500 to do the work. skip the dealer all together

 

I am showing 4.2 hr. Probably $800 for labor.

Shops, dealer included, usually want a decent mark-up on parts. At least 50% over their cost. I would expect them to be over MSRP on the cost of the part. Dealer cost on the unit is probably 55-70% of MSRP, but the parts and service departments operate as independent entities.

 

Excellent.

Sometimes you can get an emotional attachment to a car as I do to sometimes but you are at the point where there is nothing but trouble ahead at $175 an hour. Its been a great run.

Sorry to hear your disabled next car you get make sure its very comfortable. My 07 Prius is the most uncomfortable car ever and just kills my back. It bothers my wife too but she does not drive it much only around town where its easy around town easy to park and the body has many "imperfections" she's incurred over the years. So I no longer care what what she does to the car body wise.

Get a nice Hyundai or Kia plain old engine easy to fix. Make sure its comfortable!

Good luck!

 

We will stay tuned. Please keep us informed as you move forward.

 

Did anyone offer insight about the knocking sound in the rear that occurs every time the abs accumulator motor runs?

Was it once believed that a bad abs accumulator was a basis to just buy another car?

 

Are you sure the knocking sound is coming from the rear of the car? The actuator/accumulator is located behind the inverter next to the firewall and that should be the origin of the sound, if it is that part of the braking system that is going bad. You would need to have the codes (if any) read, before concluding that you need a new actuator/accumulator.

If your car was built in 2005, I'm guessing it has seen several hundred thousand miles, which would probably make it uneconomic to put up to $3k into it for that particular new part at a Toyota dealer. On the other hand, with the current high level of used car prices, if you cannot find alternative transportation at a reasonable price, you may want to risk putting in a used part at an independent mechanic, if you can find anyone willing to do the job. Even there, the labor is likely to be close to $1k, in addition to the cost of the part, which could be another $1k.

It will not be any easy decision, for sure. I'm hoping we won't be looking at the same thing with our Gen 2, which is still running fine, luckily (fingers crossed).

 

The clunk noise comes from the rear of the car during the time when the abs accumulator on the firewall is running as the OP has noted in this thread...I know it's an ancient thread.

The car has less than 200k mi. and the rest runs ok; no oil burning,

Diag Codes have been noted. Replacement pump has been acquired and measured according to Toyota Service procedures. The cost will be around $200 for repairs.

I just wanted to see if anyone knew what component was making the knocking noise that so many users have experienced, and if it goes away once the accumulator is replaced.

 

I'm having the same problem! After the normal brake actuator noise, there is a knocking noise from underneath the right rear of the car. (It took forever to figure out where the noise was coming from and I still haven't pinpointed it precisely). It's getting more and more frequent as the months go by. It seems this all started after my catalytic converter was stolen and replaced in November of 2021.

 

there are hangers that hold up the muffler and the catalytic converter, maybe the hangers need attention?