Soldering a blown fusible link

Not necessarily.
A healthy fresh fully charged battery could run the car for several weeks maybe......especially if the converter is still partially functioning.
AND.....13.8 while running is not the battery but the charging voltage from the converter.
That is on the low side of "normal". It usually should be a bit above 14.0.

 

My Gen 3 often charges north of 14 volts; I expect that would be the same for a c.

In my Gen 1, 13.8 was pretty much the setpoint, and I think that may also have been the case for Gen 2, as seen in this thread.

 

Nope, it can go as high as 14.4 V depending on the condition of the 12 V battery.

 

I did the same thing a few months back. I couldn't find much information online whether it would be a good idea to solder the fusible link. Whether it turns out to be a good idea or a bad idea, the only option I had was to solder.

So, I took an electrical wire wrap it were it was broken and solder it together. The car had started and I have been using the soldered fusible link for a few months now.

 

You only have to read this thread to know that the answer to your query is it is a bad idea long term. It is certainly a helpful make-shift solution to get you home or to a repair facility so that it gets fixed properly. A few months is more than enough time to get a proper fix done.

Until you get a new fusible link, you have no protection from electrical misadventure. If you should have another crossed polarity jump, it could cost you very expensive parts or even total your car.

 

I would expect that one of the ecu's (maybe the hybrid drive ecu?) would adjust the voltage level setpoint based on temperature compensation. I have also seen high 13's to low 14's on various Gen2.

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As a very temporary repair I could see doing that... but replace very soon because the cost of that part is miniscule compared to the damage that can be done to components that fusible link is meant to protect.

If you do solder the link section (the very thin portion of the link), use as little solder as possible to bridge the gap. If you create a glob of solder over the entire thin portion (which would take skill to avoid) you have ruined the protection of the fusible link and it would likely pass way too much amperage through the delicate components the link was supposed to protect if it was intact and you encounter a high amp load passing through the link for any reason.

What's the gamble worth to you I guess.

 

If the temporary repair created a glob of solder you could file it down. The problem is knowing how much current it takes to melt the repair job versus how much to melt the part of the link that burned out.

 

Yeah, if I had to do it I would only use solder as a bridge which would probably give way fairly quickly if there was a lot of heat from a big amp draw.

The part that kind of bothered me about the @EsalovesPizza post is that he wrapped wire around the affected area and then soldered that area. To me that would be a pretty big risk since even if there was enough heat to melt the solder, the wraps of wire would continue to conduct. I had an image of a lot wire and a glob of solder covering the thin part that is meant to void if enough amp/heat is applied. I could be wrong, but that's the image I had.

 

It depends on the size of the wire. Thin gauge will melt at pretty low amperages.