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EGR cooler gasket not correctly fit exhaust side

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Care, Maintenance & Troubleshooting' started by ozmatt, Feb 27, 2021.

  1. ozmatt

    ozmatt Active Member

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    I'm hearing you dogman, i only used it on the valve etc because its commonly used to clean alloy wheels, I didn't think anything of it tbh, the valve is a little dark or stained like now, I will just rub it over with a green scotch pad until it looks nice again!

    With the manifold I see no other way to get the buildup out of the intake ports, it seems like people are using oven cleaner, just don't leave it on too long

    I'm still bothered about that #1 port being found completely blocked, but like I said no symptoms yet so hopefully it's all good for a while yet, another thing on my mind the day it coded the car was full, going up a hill on a 38c summer day one week after changing to 5w30 full synth, I wonder if that 5w30 was out of it's optimum temp range and started to burn, might switch up to 10w40 next summer

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  2. ASRDogman

    ASRDogman Senior Member

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    Have you cleared the port yet?
    I would stick with the oil the owners manual calls for.
    Going to thicker oil "may" help slow oil consumption, but it will make the VVT work harder.
    And can effect the valve timing.

     
  3. ozmatt

    ozmatt Active Member

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    Hey Dogman, ive not made it down to the workshop yet mate, still at the "sit around drink a ton of coffee and procrastinate" stage of the morning, heading down shortly after a quick dash for supplies

    Will get some brass brushes and cheap tooth and bottle brushes ..etc etc

    In Australia the owners manual states a pretty wide range of oil viscosities that we can use, from memory it's something like 0w20 right through to 20w50, I think 5w30 is perhaps getting a bit on the thin side for aussie summers on moderate to high mileage engines, maybe a coincidence but I don't want it burning any more than it really has to especially on those hot summer days, I'm sure the 5w30 will be okay now that its near winter so I won't drop it out, it's only done about 3500km on this oil and it's not exactly cheap so it's staying in until it's done 10,000 and I can keep an eye on the dipstick. Having said that, over that 3500km the oil level has remained the same.








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  4. ozmatt

    ozmatt Active Member

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    This is port 1 after a good old screwdriver scraping! injectors have copped some soot, I would love to know how many miles is on this engine

    Shouldn't hurt to gently massage the carbon off the injector tips with toothbrush and carb cleaner while doing the ports, will remove and clean injectors properly at some stage but for now I just need to concentrate on the egr clean and occ install IMG_20210305_130202_396.jpeg

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  5. Willy Toast

    Willy Toast Member

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    I am curious why no one seems to look at the EGR valve stem? My 2012 Prius v had only 59,000 miles on it and most of the EGR system was pretty good. However when I took off the EGR valve cover and unscrewed the rotor I found the valve stem was sticking pretty badly even though there was only a thin film -- can't get thick -- on the valve stem. I scraped the stem off with a small tool through the inlet (exhaust side) port and added lithium grease while manually moving the valve stem about a 100 times. It made a real difference in how my Prius ran. Also the Canadian Toyota warranty extension W11 specifically refers to this issue.
    Question: Why is this not one of the first points of focus when looking at the EGR system faults; Especially at lower mileage? (Attn ChapmanF, Mendel Leisk, Ragingfit)
     
    #25 Willy Toast, Mar 4, 2021
    Last edited: Mar 4, 2021
  6. Willy Toast

    Willy Toast Member

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    I am curious why no one seems to look at the EGR valve stem? My 2012 Prius v had only 59,000 miles on it and most of the EGR system was pretty good. However when I took off the EGR valve cover and unscrewed the rotor I found the valve stem was sticking pretty badly even though there was only a thin film -- can't get thick -- on the valve stem. I scraped the stem off with a small tool through the inlet (exhaust side) port and added lithium grease while manually moving the valve stem about a 100 times. It made a real difference in how my Prius ran. Also the Canadian Toyota warranty extension W11 specifically refers to this issue.
    Question: Why is this not one of the first points of focus when looking at the EGR system faults; Especially at lower mileage? (Attn ChapmanF, Mendel Leisk, Ragingfit)
     
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  7. ozmatt

    ozmatt Active Member

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    hey Willy Toast hows it going, my valve was not sticking that i could tell, gave it a good clean anyway, most of my buildup was within the tiny holes in the manifold and cylinder head, but my egr was not sealed to the exhaust properly at the last gasket and this may contribute to more carbon buildup earlier in the egr system

    Dogman mentioned earlier that he's not sure what might happen if those little holes in manifold were drilled out larger, i would love to try this but scared i will wreck the manifold and i don't have a spare, fantastic idea if its doable .. surely someone has done it ?
     
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  8. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    I never had the nerve, to wail on screws with my (manual) impact driver. I’ve some (knock on wood) compatible AND hex-headed, on deck with Amazon, for if-and-when I revisit. Size (more wood knocking:

    M5x16 (coarse)
     
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  9. ozmatt

    ozmatt Active Member

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    honestly if you are talking about the two screws on the black egr valve motor cap this was not at all hard to unscrew, definitely no need to wail lol :) place valve in vice grab your favourite trusty impact driver with appropriate length philips #2 hex bit installed (I used 100mm long bit) lean in with moderate force but not brutal and give it a couple gentle nugga' nuggas with the impact, mine was no challenge compared to cleaning all this "#$&Fing caked up thick carbon lol

    I want to know if anyone has the answer to this, of the whole egr system does #1 inlet orifice in the manifold typically block up first? have i got to this issue early or late or right about just in time? the rest of my egr system was not that bad really but the head and intake have decent amounts of carbon..
     
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  10. ASRDogman

    ASRDogman Senior Member

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    Use a brass bristle brush, and carb cleaner on the injector.
    Brush toward the engine, less risk of possible damaging the injector tip.

     
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  11. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    Seems to. Even with my very early cleaning (around 70k kms), #1 was most impacted, and pics/reports here corroborate this. Somehow due to the gasses introduced to intake manifold at #4 end??
     
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  12. ozmatt

    ozmatt Active Member

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    Wish i had of known Dogman, figured the brass brush might be a bit harsh so spent the time with tooth brush :rolleyes: better safe than sorry i guess

    Mendel, interesting about yours starting at #1 this was the only point where mine was fully blocked, i might be safe for a little while after all!.. Thought i looked at every cooler and manifold cleaning picture here but cant say i noticed your manifold pics, could you please point me in the right direction :)

    Has anyone successfully flogged out these stupid little egr passages in manifold ?

    Got the manifold soaking in basic washing liquid and warm water to try and soften it up, is it okay to pressure wash the manifold? i only see people saying they use brake cleaner but pfft, not a chance thats going to work on mine, maybe aussie e10 is what im up against here? I seen a post from someone saying they can clean the dirtiest manifold in about 15 minutes or something crazy, but they didn't get in to their method, is it safe to use pressure washer on manifold? i just want to oven cleaner and pressure washer the filthy sucker and be done with it, same as cooler

    Man this filthy soaking manifold stinks, its giving me a headache
     
  13. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    I’m fuzzy as to when the revision happened, and based on a low res cut-away pic of the revised manifold, plus conjecture, i “think” the following happened:

    2010/2011 intake manifold has a single Exhaust Gas Recirculation main passage, branching into four capillaries, one per port. 2012 onward has a main passage branching into two intermediates which each branch into two capillaries.

    The object of the revision was to more “homogenize” the flow. I’ve also heard Toyota initially pushed the revised IM as a remedy for clogging, but subsequently backed off. Maybe not that effective?

    Anyway, my take is, the EGR gas tends to stay to the main, larger diameter passages as long as possible, then enters the capillary when there’s no alternative. And maybe that favours the gas flowing into capillary #1.
     
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  14. ozmatt

    ozmatt Active Member

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    Thanks Mendel, it's unfortunate the revised manifold did not work, guess we are stuck cleaning it periodically

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  15. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    Accessing the intake manifold at least is a lot easier than the cooler. Also, the throttle body coolant lines can be left connected. If it’s cleaned say every 50k miles it’s easy; brake cleaner, brushes and rags is all you need.
     
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  16. ozmatt

    ozmatt Active Member

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    Yep, I plan on checking the manifold more regularly than the cooler.

    Do you know if it's safe to pressure wash the manifold or might it crack? For what it's worth my little pressure washer is getting lazy (like me)

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  17. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    Don’t know. I’d stick to brake cleaner/rags/brushes, but then again I haven’t dealt with completely knackered.
     
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  18. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    @ozmatt has the miles (or kms?) on your car been mentioned? And I assume this was first time for cleaning.
     
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  19. ozmatt

    ozmatt Active Member

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    Mendel, its currently at 453k km but had an (unknown to me) km replacement engine at around 350k, previous owner just said the replacement engine was "low km" at the time it was installed..

    Yes, first time cleaning

    been trying to figure approx how many k's is on the engine by comparing my egr and manifold photos with others here but it's proved pointless so far, hopefully the spark plugs will give a hint, will inspect those today

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  20. ozmatt

    ozmatt Active Member

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    Not good, although I tightly packed the valve ports with rags and tried to limit how wet I got things, it seems I have ended up with residual carbon chunks deep down in there :( now I'm worried this will wreck the valve seat IMG_20210306_130954_243.jpeg

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