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Combination meter issue

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Technical Discussion' started by Cometflash, Mar 10, 2021.

  1. Cometflash

    Cometflash Junior Member

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    2004 prius.

    Was having a combination meter that would hardly turn on. Decided to try doing what many have tried and change the capacitor on the board.

    However after doing so, although all lights shows up, the speedometer does not light up, and I get the triangle of death on, plus a symbol of head light I never ever saw, that per manual says to be a "automatic headlight leveling system warning light".
    I checked other capacitors around and the 350uf 35v capacitor reads only 316uf.
    The 100uf was actually showing 116uf.
    But I was prepared for that one, so I only change that one for 220uf. Would the lower reading on the 350uf also effect the meter? Or do I just have a bad board?
    I left my car gutted for now.
    Not sure what my next step should be.
    Get a new board, or try to get yet another capacitor?
    Have anyone change anything on the meter besides the 100uf capacitor?
     
  2. SFO

    SFO Senior Member

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    Welcome to PriusChat!!

    Have you already inspected the headlight leveling sensor?

    FYI : you're posts are being moderated until you reached five posts.
     
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  3. edthefox5

    edthefox5 Senior Member

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    It’s not the value of the cap so much as it is it’s ESR.

    That’s how 17 year old caps fail. I own a Sencore LC102 hardly ever use it but use my Dick Smith ESR meter all the time.
     
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  4. edthefox5

    edthefox5 Senior Member

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    The famous Dick Smith meter has been superseded by the Blue ESR METER like Dicks only comes in kit form.
    My DS meter is now oh god 41 years old still works great.
     
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  5. Cometflash

    Cometflash Junior Member

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    Thank you SFO.

    I just got another older meter with about the same miles and put on it.

    After I got the other meter, I discovered a pin was broken, on the one I was getting the red triangle and the fog light symbol, at TR3 just behind the 100uf 16v capacitor.

    Not sure if that was was causing the issue, and if I could solder it together.
    The important thing is I got a working meter.

    When the meter was out I was getting P0171, took to Toyota who charge me $50 for diagnosed, and yet came back to me saying I had a bad 12v battery.
    I had replaced the battery and had warranty, since I got it last October.
    Got the warranty filled and now after meter working, engine light show up again with same code.
    Tested the battery and at rest is close to 13 volts, and over 14 when car on.
    Gonna attempt some cleaning later on to see if it will go away.
    I read that usually when this codes appears mpg goes down, but actually after meter working I'm getting mpg close or over 50, which I wasn't getting for a while until the board got dark. My guess is my poor milage had to do with a bad 12v which I replace, but after I replaced, I think the meter only light up about 5 times, and since we were in this pandemic I was doing very short trips with the car, like under 5 miles a day, so I didn't noticed any mpg increase.

    One thing Toyota try to sell me, was that is some rust in the rotor, and suggest me to replace. Last time I took to Toyota I was in another state, and the car was whistling some times, so I thought I needed brakes, but the guy at Toyota told me the only issue was there was a lip on the rotor that sometimes could rub against the brakes, but besides that was all good. Since the car is pretty old and has almost no resale value anymore, I'm trying to do the minimum on it. I was thinking of taking the tire out and inspecting the rotor and wonder if I could possibly remedy the problem, if in truness is developing rust, and: is it possible to remove, buffer and apply an anti-rust material to the rotor?
     
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  6. SFO

    SFO Senior Member

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    How many miles on this vehicle?

    When replacing the 12v or disconnecting such, you should confirm the MAF sensor is clean, or know that it was cleaned recently.

    Here is the workup for DTC P00171 : https://share.qclt.com/%E4%B8%B0%E7%94%B0%E6%99%AE%E7%91%9E%E6%96%AF%E5%8E%9F%E5%8E%82%E8%8B%B1%E6%96%87%E6%89%8B%E5%86%8Cpdf%E6%A0%BC%E5%BC%8F/repair%20manual/04pruisr/05/2054m/cip0171.pdf
    Try sanding off the outer ridge on the brake rotor and see if that stops the noise, or you might need to replace the shims. Ignore the rust, or if the rotors are out of spec, just purchase new rotors as they are cheap these days (25 usd?).
     
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  7. Cometflash

    Cometflash Junior Member

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    Thanks.

    I didn't know a rotor was that cheap.
    Last I checked was approaching 180k, but the dash board had been with issues on and off for over a year.

    If the job is not too difficult I could try doing myself.
    My wife has a van with a heavy duty jack which I could use if need to get under.

    I was going to try cleaning the muffler sensor today, seems very simple work looking at some videos, I saw used of a cleaner to use, gonna see if I can purchase tomorrow.
     
  8. SFO

    SFO Senior Member

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    Those rotors and pads could be original still. Many will get 200k+ before replacing either, even when still within spec.

    Rockauto has attractive price for parts, but shipping can add up fast when coming from multiple warehouses : 2004 TOYOTA PRIUS 1.5L L4 ELECTRIC/GAS Rotor | RockAuto

    Check local chain stores for competitive pricing, and see if they offer limited lifetime warranties on the desired products.
    To sand or file down the edge of the rotor would require loosening the lugs, then raising up one corner of the vehicle, then supporting it with a jack stand, blocks, or tires, before removing the wheel. There shouldn't be a need to 'get under' the vehicle, and you should take the needed safety precautions (jack stands, wheel blocks, etc.) before doing such.
    You may have a scissor jack / lug wrench near the spare tire in the trunk area of the vehicle.
    Some MAF spray should make quick work of it.
     
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  9. mr_guy_mann

    mr_guy_mann Senior Member

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    When cleaning the MAF sensor you need to remove it from the air filter housing and clean the two sensing elements "down the end", not just the obvious exposed bulb (that's the air temperature sensor)

    Also clean the throttle body.
    DSC_3737.JPG

    Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.