Well .. battery pack went again ... no suprise though ...

i have on order , because i just watched a couple videos of peopl ecleaning their bus bars and that seemed like a temp fix ,

nickel plated bars and SS nuts coming .. woo hoo ? did the nickel solve the corrosion for anybody ?

 

i had left a voicemail for for someone selling prius bat packs in NC ...
guy called back today telling me that cleaning corrosion isnt going to fix and that green and white is typical/normal ..

(but Mr. Duck on youtube said he was saving $2000 by cleaning his copper bus bars)

Cable that connects the ECU to the HV Sense harness .. it is a bitch to get out .. its down low and has like 20 pins and very little lip to pry it out with .

 

i will givie it a try if the nickel and SS dont do much ... and the 2 block charge cycling to bring up to the rest ...

 

so popped off all the nuts and bus bars ... corrosion is on the outside but where the connection meets .. the nuts to bar to battery surface .. those appear clean .. and making contact (supposedly) i did finally get the sense to ECU connector off and u have to pull the computer (battery) to do it properly ..

there was a couple dark pins in the upper left corner (looking at it from above as it sits in the car)

so not sure how much nickel plated bus bar contacts and SS nuts are going to do except like a gov 'we're gonna throw some money at it and see how it makes out better' ($40 bucks partially wasted ?) - it aint appearing to be helpin much .. will get ssome pics of sense contacts and connector pins / ECU pins ..

did identify each module in blocks 1 and 4 that were low .. began charge then the triple D>C cycleing 'balancing' ... not sure that .1 A D and .4 A C are enough to do the trick though ....

 

seems there could be a possibility of cleaning the ECU sense connector pins ...

dejavue taking this off and seeing the char .. did this very same thing a year ago .. though it was a much much worse condition .. this one seems repairable ...
the 2 modules are being balanced currently and reassembly will have nickel plated bus bars and stainles steel screws because .. why not ?

 

well went and checked this am .. balance yest was a fart in the wind .. said 125 ma for each cycle or the charge cycles .. voltage on the low on block 1 was 6.66 while adjacent was 7.77 .. so back on the charge cycle .. this time up the D to .2 (from 1 to 1.5v D) and the C to .6 ... i see many others doing more aggressive .. i'm just trying to get it to where needs to be with as little 'bumping' as necessary ..

 

THX .. good suggestions .. 6.6 on the lower ones 7.7x on the higher .. just under the 1.2v dif ... car has been in reg use so .. not like it sits and they reverse .. and outer corrosion shouldnt ]affect internal connection .. but that harness is concerning why it happened in the 1st place ...

2nd cycle of D>C 168 mA each cycle .. i'm thinking that's not enough .. will boost it on next cycle .. will post a pic of the circuit board on BAT ECU .

3rd cycle getting another .2 D and .3? C ...
....
harnes is prob gonna be
$50

 

boy was i wrong on that harness ..

Wouldnt it be nice if we could see the polarity and voltage of each cell in the module ?

sealed containers are nice but not serviceable .. I do have a couple modules sitting around ... these cars need a spare pack on the ready for times such as this ..
a whole backup pack sitting in the garage ready for when the main pack fails ....

 

really weird how that trace from the pin to PCB goes black all the way back to the resistor ...
... like a gremlin got in there and decided to wreak haoc ...

the corrosion followed from outside the case ? to inside the connector pin on the PCB and down onto the board ...

 

yeah this coronacrap has been bad all around for everybody and everything (*sitting hybrids) ...

time .. Lead acid dont last too many years and nimh aint much betta .. but the NiCd seem to be able to pull back from dead when u shock them or hit them hard current .. or freeze them ..

and Lithium can damn near hold their charge for a year .. while LA loses about 1% per_ day !!
i ll check the toatster's stuff out .. thx for the story and mentions
!! enjoy your prime !

 

Well .. received my nickel plated bus bars and SS nuts ($40) .. had been charge cycling the 2 bad modules (i know they arent going to last) .. i got it together enough to test and low and behold it started and charged up to over 50 % ..
then i started putting it together more (covers) and tried it again and got mr. unhappyr red triangle .. put code reader on and get a P1116 (this is the warm circuit .. ) i got to get a better reader on to get the one about the HV system ...
this am ordered 2 modules (coming out of a wreck i have no idea of age or mileage) ..
i cleaned up the harness pins and PCB on the ECU alcohol cotton swab and
rubbing char off pcb trace with plastic ...
pretty sure 2 modules V drop through a code ... (at least i didnt button it up !! so getting replacement modules in wont be overly taxing ) ...
( only reason i bought the BB's and SS nuts was because $28 .. upon mesage with seller i further realised the title said 'prius C' and seller informed me there are lesss bus bars and nuts because of smaller battery --- $10 more for the extra to complete a set for reg prius) ....

will update when i find better reader to get bat codes...

 

I FOUND THE craftsman reader ( much better than the cheap onepreviously used) and .. no battery code (just the same p1116.. i have an even better rceader but i think ultimately none of them except 'proprietary' techstream is going to pull the ECU codes from the battery ... so that's prob. what i should hae started with ....

 

Got the techstream on hybrid control reads error : P0A0D - 350 .. 'HV system interlock-circuit high' on the Freeze frame ..

no error from the HV Bat system reported.

 

i took it out and reseated the interlock .. (HV Bat Fuse) ..125A .. that did the trick no further errors ..

I find the interlock grabs on the metal frame that surrounds it .. it is difficult to make the interlock fully lock .. the procedure is to push it in with the lock lever horizontal then the lock lever rotates to vertical and then a down motion slides into the lock position .. mine wants move 90% down but the remaining 10% it is hesitant to lock on ..

 

it is not so bad sticking the orange fuse in .. but the rotation of the lever and getting the 2 fine pins to lock .. that mechanism can seem to get mis-aligned ..

Now i see the behavior of the hybrid battery is to not keep charge and charge up on and off with the engine if ac is on .. i have acouple 'newer?' modules coming to replace the 2 that have a bad cell in them ... so another delay .. kicking the idea around of either the Dcell looking models new of nimh or lithium ... both options are just under $2000 .. or a cheaper 'rebuild' pack for under $1000 (but not many do any pack that low)...

 

what i'd like to do is get a block of the 'new' D-cell looking .. combo block 12 Dcell units.
I don't think they ship 1 or 2 at a time but i've only seen 12? or 14 depending on prius or prius-C.
Much improved airflow .. -- heat is the enemy ...

replacement 'used ' modules came yest. have been charge cycling and getting ready to install ... if all holds true car may not throw nasty red triangle when it gets buttoned up...