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ABS Relay clicks but all functions dead

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by DaviDino, Apr 20, 2021.

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  1. DaviDino

    DaviDino Junior Member

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    2004 Prius
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    II
    My 04 Prius has performed well despite intermittent Check Engine light (dealer diagnosed as P1151 coolant heat storage tank/clogged coolant pathway-all related only to emissions control). Suddenly, car won't start; no dash lights operable, no Park or Power switch lights, key won't remove, doors won't lock/unlock, and clicking coming from fuse block_ABS Relays. Removed & fully charged auxiliary 12V battery; restored all functions when reinstalled fully charged (12.94V) aux battery.

    Not 100 miles later, car refuses to start; all electrical functions again are unresponsive. Quick-Charged aux battery (12.4V) and reinstalled, but this time no functions were restored; ABS relays again go to clicking, but no progress re-starting the car.

    Other factors eliminated by recent service: Hybrid battery reconditioned and inverter water pump (fixed P0A93) 3 months/2000 miles ago.

    Anyone have ideas for what to check next? Need to move this car ASAP. THANKS FOR ANY HELP!!!!
     
    #1 DaviDino, Apr 20, 2021
  2. SFO

    SFO Senior Member

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    Make sure you have 12v at the front of the vehicle by using a voltmeter to measure for 12v at the jump points under the hood.
     
    #2 SFO, Apr 20, 2021
    Raytheeagle likes this.
  3. dolj

    dolj Senior Member

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    Read the codes and see if you have P3009/P0AA6 DTC.
     
    #3 dolj, Apr 21, 2021
  4. sam spade 2

    sam spade 2 Senior Member

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    The 12 V battery needs to be fully charged and then tested fully. That means more than just one quick test.
    If that appears to be good, then the battery voltage needs to be checked while it is failing both at the battery and at the "jump points". This could be a loose main battery cable connection.

    AND the charging voltage needs to be checked once you are able to get it into "ready"mode.

    ALL of the symptoms you have related point to some kind of problem with the 12 V system.
    And reading and chasing codes while the 12 V is not right will likely just be a wild goose chase.
     
    #4 sam spade 2, Apr 22, 2021
  5. dolj

    dolj Senior Member

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    When you read the codes you can see what the voltage was on the 12V bus by looking at the freeze frame data when the code set. As long as it is above 10.5V (or heck even above 5V, 8V, or 8.5V, in some cases) you will not be chasing any geese.
     
    #5 dolj, Apr 23, 2021
  6. pasadena_commut

    pasadena_commut Senior Member

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    Take the connectors off the 12V battery, inspect for frayed leads, clean everything, and reassemble. Be sure the ground lead is bolted down tight and that there is no corrosion where that lead bolts to the body. If that is all good also check any grounds in the engine compartment. It may be that all of this is good, but if any of it is bad you will have mysterious electrical issues which seem to originate from random parts of the car.
     
    #6 pasadena_commut, Apr 24, 2021
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