2013 dead battery

Maybe just a lot of names being tossed out, and in reality they’re all doing the same thing. The amp rating will determine how long it takes to full charge, is all.

 

problem being, they won't warranty if it tests good

 

Thats good for now. I'd still find out how old the battery is. if it is original you probably should just replace it anyways, at 8 years its on its last leg if original.

 

That might have been 225 CCA* tested, 342 CCA rated? Which is NOT good: a typical healthy battery will read well above rated. For example, a 325 CCA rated battery might read 350~375.

The typical electronic load tester would likely “fail” a battery having CCA lower than spec. Charging a battery in that state would raise voltage some, but do little or nothing to the CCA.

*CCA = Cold Cranking Amps

addendum: you posted correction about the values while I was typing. Again, anything lower than spec is NOT a battery in good shape.

a Solar BA9 is something you can pick up relatively cheap, and see for yourself.

 

You work undercover for solar ba9 company!!!

 

Age is maybe secondary? I’ve got an Optima Yellow Top, will be 6 years old next September, rated 450 CCA, read 490 last time I checked.

bottom line: the best (maybe only) way to dispel 12 volt issues, is to educate yourself, and get all the relevant gizmos/tools. As long as you’re relying on dealership or Pep Boys, it’s gonna be “complicated”.

I do draw the line. AC maintenance for example, I just grit my teeth and bring it in. But 12 volt batteries are pretty straightforward.

 

to send ping signals for geolocation tracking, not bad in case an alibi is needed.

 

No, that is not a really good test for the 12 V battery in a hybrid because.......it really does not DO cranking duty.
Voltage is more important than cranking amps.

The OBD device was "hot" all the time and no doubt sapped the battery.
NOW it needs to be manually recharged with a small charger overnight at least.

But once it has been discharged, it's life is likely reduced.
If it was old to start with OR it was left in a discharged state very long, it likely is toast now.

 

gotta love how the easy fixes are skimmed over on here

 

The battery may not start the engine, but I respectfully propose that as-tested CCA is still a good indicator of the battery’s viability.

 

In theory, that makes sense. I use both but I never thought about either?? So I looked it up and found this.

https://www.oreillyauto.com/how-to-hub/battery-charger-maintainer-differences

It does not address using a "Battery Maintainer," to charge a battery. But it does mention that you can't use any old "Maintainer," on a AGM battery?? I think that one is a my "Bad," on my part??

But as to using a "Battery Maintainer," to actually charge a Battery?? I suppose, but in the "Real World," who does that?? Just saying.

 

Aww well I missed my opportunity to test that theory!

The DVOM said the battery was good?? But the car would not start and the resulting key fob madness and lock out's and no starts followed. My better half got tired of my foolishness and drove the car to the Hybrid Shop and that battery was out of there!

But I still wanted it. because while it would not start the Prius. I wondered if it would start a normal car???

 

"But as to using a "Battery Maintainer," to actually charge a Battery?? I suppose, but in the "Real World," who does that?? Just saying."

At least two people do: I do, and Mendel does, as we both don't drive the car all that much. We use a CTek maintainer (4A). Excellent piece of gear. Just saying.....