New 2005 Prius help

Those codes are only for the infotainment system and its network- they have nothing to do with the warning lights on the dash.

You need a scantool that plugs into the OBD2 connector port under the dash and can communicate with all the control ecu's on a Prius to pull codes. Some buy a mini VCI cable (with Techstream software) from amazon or ebay and install it on an old windows laptop. This is a bootleg copy of Toyota's diagnostic software.

Most cheaper scanners (including ones used by auto parts stores) cannot talk to several of the hybrid ecu's on a Prius.

You can pull codes from some ecu's by carefully jumping 2 of the pins on the OBD2 connector and counting the flashes of the warning lights- but a proper scanner is much better. Use the search feature to look for manual code flash.

If you have fluids and the 12V battery that are over 10 years old then I would just replace all of them.

Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.

 

Use the search forums link up top and search

obd codes

Lots of discussion there about what devices you can use to pull proper obd codes.

If toyota installed the new battery why aren’t you taking it back to them,

if another shop installed a supposed new toyota battery Why aren’t you taking it back to them.

we see so many hybrid battery shenanigans I would suspect if a shop did it you did not get a new battery you got a used whack a mole battery.

 

Listen to the 2 above posts. No one can tell you what is going on with your car without the specific codes that tell you exactly what condition the vehicle saw that produced the red triangle. The red triangle is always a serious error that needs immediate attention, at least serious enough to know if the car can be safely driven or not after a code read to determine the problem.

Since you just spent 3K on the battery I would take it back to the place you got it repaired at and have them pull the codes and explain them to you. I wouldn't think they would charge you to do a simple code read after you spent 3K, it only takes them 2 minutes to hook up and pull the codes. If they want to charge you for this I would seriously reconsider your relationship with that shop.

The alternative is to get code reading equipment yourself. Which is really nice to have for any future problems you run into with an older car. Whether that's a BT adapter and a good phone app or Techstream with a miniVCI cable. Of course, that will take several days to get the needed adapters/equipment from Amazon or wherever and I wouldn't recommend driving much until you determine the issue. All modern cars need the right diagnostic readers to let you know what's happening. If you get your own code reader you can post codes that you find and many of the users here are very good at helping you though the issue, but the codes are what's needed to help you.

The fact that you are still using the original 12v battery is highly unusual. Have you really owned the vehicle since 2005 and you know for sure it's the original 12V battery? 12v batteries don't usually last for 16 years and a weak 12v can cause all kinds of weird codes to appear that aren't accurate. You might want to take the 12v out and have an auto parts store do a charge and load test. Most stores will do this for free in hopes of selling you a new battery. If they determine the 12v is bad check in here with the battery they recommend to make sure it's an appropriate battery for a hybrid vehicle. Most auto batteries are not appropriate for our use and a good parts store will know that, a bad one might not.

Let us know what you find.

 

i doubt it is really the original 12 volt. if it is driving fine, drive to an auto parts store for a free code reading, and 12 volt load test.

 

has the triangle come back?

what shop is it? dealer? private?

ask them what trouble codes are coming up. there would be specific for the fuel pump

sounds like they're giving you the old jimmyjam shazamm

 

Did the shop scan the car for codes? If so what were they? What makes the shop suspect a fuel pump problem?
Yes, US spec Prii have a "sealed" fuel tank assembly.

The battery "gauge" will normally go up and down based on how you use the car. 1 bar (pink/purple) is 40% State Of Charge. 8 bars (green) is 80% SOC. If you just drive at a steady 50-70 mph the car stays at 6-7 bars (my car "likes" to be around 60% SOC ). Heavy accel or prolonged uphill can drop it to 4. Lots of braking will charge it up to 8. If you do bumper to bumper traffic (esp with the A/C on) then the car will go down to 2 before running the gas engine to charge it up.

Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.

 

I'm guessing this is not a Toyota dealer since you would have a service quote for a known issue that was discovered with a scan pulling the codes and the service quote would show this. I really don't buy the "it could be a fuel pump" since that would generate a code also I would think. That just sounds like a guess to me to get you to go away. If they saw codes for this it wouldn't have been a guess and they would have given you a quote for the repair. Did they even pull codes for the car?

If they didn't give you the codes and you didn't ask for the codes you're at the mercy of your "trusted" shop. I think every poster here has recommended 2 things 1) get the trouble codes for diagnosis 2) get the 12v battery checked. I really question the 12V battery being the original, as others have said, but you never answered the question. At this point I don't understand why you are even here asking questions since you give no answers.

Good luck with your "trusted" shop and I hope you get your issue fixed.