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ENGINE STALL AFTER A/C GOES WARM. NO CODES, NO CHECK ENGINE

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by AndrewTubbiolo, Aug 5, 2021.

  1. AndrewTubbiolo

    AndrewTubbiolo Junior Member

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    Hi Folks:

    I drive a 2005 Prius with 255000 miles. I'm in Tucson Az, and it's getting to 105F outside. This problem
    just started. In the weeks before temps were reaching 116F and the car took it like a champ. This is new.
    Last night when it was 95F outside, I noticed my air conditioning go soft, then blew nothing but hot air. I turned
    it off and drove for another 10 min or so. Out of nowhere, the console displays blink out, and the car coasts
    to a halt with a strange grinding sound. Just before coming to a stop, the car jerks to a halt. The car is now
    turned off. When I power back up, no warning lights, no check engine light, no triangle of death. I'm able to change gear and move the car. A about 5 min later, the cycle repeats.

    The engine was hot. No doubt about it. I topped off with some pink coolant from Autozone, and I was able to make it home without further incident. I then tested in the cooler AM air, then again in the hot 108F heat of the day. Oil and coolant levels were fine. In the 108F heat of the day, the same cascade of events. After 20 min of use, the A/C warmed up, then I turned it off. I transitioned to back streets and had a stall out event. Again, no check engine lights or triangle of death after a restart. This time I had a ODB2 reader attached and noticed that the reported engine temp held between 85C and 88C when everything worked fine. The A/C went warm when the engine temp went above 91C. The stall out and grinding to a halt happened ~92C.

    Symptoms leading up to stallout:

    A/C goes warm

    Many electrics blink out.

    System reboots itself most of the time.

    System reboots up just fine. Or I can restart it and it's 'fine'.

    Grinding noise during coast to halt.

    Jerking at final halt.

    Additional Details (Unrelated?)
    Aux battery sometimes has low voltage and system does not execute a proper shutdown sequence.
    When this happens, I need to 'jump start' the system with external power via front relay box.

    I recently re-capped the multifunction board. Board gave out in the high heat of this summer. Job was done two weeks before the onset of this problem. This board is giving perfect service now.

    Andrew Tubbiolo
    2005 Prius.
    255500 miles.
     
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  2. SFO

    SFO Senior Member

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    Not all OBD2 scanners are toyota hybrid compatible, which scanner are you currently using?

    It sounds like your Inverter Coolant Pump has failed (DTC P0A93), when was the pump last replaced?

    Is there any turbulence on the liquid surface when you look inside the coolant reservoir? (located near the middle of the firewall)

    You can check the dealer maintenance history by entering the VIN at : Track Your Service Records with Your Toyota Owners Account
     
  3. jerrymildred

    jerrymildred Senior Member

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    This would also be the first thing I'd check. It may simply be a blown inverter coolant pump fuse, but it's more likely that the fuse blew because the pump locked up. It's a pretty easy and inexpensive repair. Some owners do it proactively before the pump fails because they assume it will eventually fail.
     
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  4. AndrewTubbiolo

    AndrewTubbiolo Junior Member

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    OBD2:

    It's a cheesy scanner from Asia. Do you have a scanner to recommend? I'd like one that I could interface with with my laptop or a ras-pi. I'd like to avoid dependence on Google Play or Apple ApStore. So I need to cover this issue. It's a real point.

    Inverter Cooler Pump:

    I replaced it last year. I'll check inverter coolant flow. If that did stop, wouldn't that throw a check engine light?

    Andrew Tubbiolo
    2005 Prius.
    255500 miles.
    48 MPG measured by gas consumed.
     
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  5. SFO

    SFO Senior Member

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    If the AM2 fuse had blown the vehicle would be in a 'no start' situation.
     
  6. jerrymildred

    jerrymildred Senior Member

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    I forgot about the no start from that fuse. Thanks.
     
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  7. PriusCamper

    PriusCamper Senior Member

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    Here's buyer's guide: Hybrid battery diagnostic and repair tool for Toyota and Lexus
     
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  8. SFO

    SFO Senior Member

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    Many will use a 'mini-vci' cable and a copy of Techstream (dealer technician diagnostic software) on a windows device.
    Yes it should throw multiple warning lights. Are there no warning lights being displayed on the dash?

    Was the inverter coolant pump replaced with an OEM part from the dealer?
     
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  9. AndrewTubbiolo

    AndrewTubbiolo Junior Member

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    Yes, there are no warning lights after a restart. As the system is crashing they sometimes all
    light up, but still no triangle of death. In today's test run when the system collapsed all the
    warning lights lit with the check engine light. That was for about a second before the shutdown.
    Then after shutdown, everything comes up 'fine'.

    Was the inverter coolant pump replaced with an OEM part? I don't know. I purchased it from a
    friends spares store as he owns a Prius fleet for his family. Good question there. I'll explore that.
    If it was not are you saying that there could be a failure with no flagged errors?

    Andrew
     
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  10. AndrewTubbiolo

    AndrewTubbiolo Junior Member

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    Just checked this. Started up the system and opened the coolant tank. No turbulence AND no pump sounds. So just to make sure it was not because the engine was totally cold soaked from sitting overnight, I turned on the AC and drove to a drive thru fast food joint (for scientific purposes of course) to get things warmed up. When I returned home, I placed the car in park, popped the hood, and again, no turbulence and again no pumping sounds. As a clincher, I turned off the car expecting to hear the coolant pump go thru its shutdown sequence, and nothing. So no matter what, I need to replace the inverter coolant pump.

    Andrew
     
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  11. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    It definitely does sound as if you need to replace the inverter coolant pump.

    But your last check there wasn't really the clincher, because that shutdown sequence you hear involves a different pump (the coolant heat storage pump in the engine cooling system).

    So it's possible that after you deal with the inverter pump (which is definitely what's causing the problems you're reporting here), maybe you have a separate issue with the CHRS pump to think about. But that wouldn't be urgent (and it might not even be an issue; I think there can be times when it doesn't run at shutdown, if the ECM already thinks the coolant in the thermos is hot enough).
     
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  12. AndrewTubbiolo

    AndrewTubbiolo Junior Member

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    Oooohhhh, thanks for the correction. It was 93F out when I did the test. A bit chilly for Tucson I wonder why the engine is not hording heat on shutdown . :)

    Andrew
     
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  13. mr_guy_mann

    mr_guy_mann Senior Member

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    To be clear, you need to have the car in "ready" mode when you check in the inverter coolant tank to see if the pump is moving coolant.

    Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
     
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  14. dolj

    dolj Senior Member

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    The inverter coolant pump also is running in "IG-ON" as well as "READY"


    Prius power cycle modes:
    Mode
    Action​
    1 ACC
    • With the car in OFF; and the foot OFF the brake; press the start button once.
    2 IG-ON
    • If the car is in OFF; with the foot OFF the brake; press the start button twice.
    • If the car is in ACC mode; with the foot still OFF the brake; press the start button once more.
    3 READY
    • With foot ON the brake; press the START button once; this can be done when the car is in any other mode.
    4 OFF
    • If the car is in READY; press the START button once; it does not matter whether the foot is on or off the brake.
    • If the car is in ACC mode; with the foot OFF the brake; press the start button twice.
    • If the car is in IG-ON mode; with the foot OFF the brake; press the start button once.
     
  15. AndrewTubbiolo

    AndrewTubbiolo Junior Member

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    Hi Folks:

    I changed the inverter coolant pump with a genuine Toyota part purchased at the dealership. In short, that was it. Almost all the problems I'd been having with the car are gone. With the exception after short drives, I still have to jump start the car from the front relay box. This is not happening a lot but after long period of idle time (like 4 days) or multiple short trips. It's a brand new aux battery so still some issues to chase down. However, the car is very much usable again. Thanks for all your help. I waited a few weeks to 'close out' this post just in case the problems came back.

    Andrew
     
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  16. dolj

    dolj Senior Member

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    If by new 12 V battery you mean that it was bought in the last two months and not the last two years, then all you need to do is borrow or buy a 12 V automatic multi-stage charger (Harbor Feight have a nice one for ~$50; 4A Noco genius is another for a few more dollars) that can charge AGM batteries and give that tired battery a charge overnight. However, if the battery has spent the last few months in a deeply discharged state (which it must be if you're jumping it), it could be permanently damaged. It might pay for you to load test it to see if it is damaged, but you might get lucky.

    If you wanted to use the car to charge it (and you have somewhere you could do this safely and securely) you would need to make the car READY and leave it like that for 15 - 20 hours in order to get the 12 V battery from completely flat to fully charged.

    If you intend to drive the car infrequently, you would need to use your newly acquired battery charger regularly overnight once every two weeks or so if the battery is in excellent condition, more frequently if it is fair to good condition.
     
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  17. PriusPaddler

    PriusPaddler Member

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    Fun to see someone else with similar success. I just had to replace mine this week. Glad you got it fixed. Good luck with the charging issues!