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SKS 2006 blinks the signal lights four (4) times when opening door - seems like an overkill?

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by ZeroM8, Aug 22, 2021.

  1. ZeroM8

    ZeroM8 Junior Member

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    As the title says. Is this normal? Seems excessive to me. Any suggestions as to the fix? TIA.
     
  2. sam spade 2

    sam spade 2 Senior Member

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    Sure. A lobotomy might "fix" it.
    Find something to worry about that really MEANS something.
     
  3. Tideland Prius

    Tideland Prius Moderator of the North
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    One unlock should flash the lights twice along with two beeps. Locking is a single beep and a single flash.

    Sam.... please don't instigate.
     
  4. sam spade 2

    sam spade 2 Senior Member

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    Sorry.
    But sometimes I just can't resist commenting on totally insignificant wastes of peoples time.
     
  5. ZeroM8

    ZeroM8 Junior Member

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    Thanks Sam you're very kind . And I am not going to waste any more of your time, so feel free to ignore any of my further posts. Enjoy your day, the weather is nice...
     
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  6. ZeroM8

    ZeroM8 Junior Member

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    Thanks Tideland Prius, I thought so too. You don't really pay attention to little details until something goes wrong. I am a long time lurker, but barely posts, pressed for time. But very grateful to those who do, as it has helped me greatly.

    Anyway, this is my 5th Prius (1x Gen 1, 2x Gen 2, and 2x Prius V). I just got this over the weekend, traded my 2004 at over 657K to this 2006 with 303K, SKS, JBL, no Nav or back up camera to a small shop close by (I'm in GTA, Canada).

    It had a few quirks, but I figured will get through it, as I had in the past with a strong online help here as well. The guy that sold me is kind and willing to help. The A/C and hybrid battery was not working when I drove it home and he asked for me to come back and we end up swapping my 2004 hybrid battery pack (recently refurbished), the compressor, and the 12V aux batt mainly due to below, read further on...

    I reprogrammed the only key fob using the chicken dance, because in the beginning the silver logo key fob, and the part number checks out as an SKS one, can start the car, but not work as a smart key for open and close, but works as smart, or not, depending on the under the steering column switch position to start the car. That is either inserted or not, again depending on switch position.

    Alas I finally got it to work both for doors and start, full SKS, after a couple of tries and was relieved, saved for the four (4) blinks mentioned in the post. Went to bed happy, but the next morning, it's lost the programming again. I cannot open the car SKS, or button, except for the key. Once you start the car, either smart key or not, it beeps loudly once, embarrassing if there's cars around, as it seems like you are beeping at them on purpose.

    I believe it was like this in the beginning, so debating if it's the key fob, unlikely I believe, as one of the posts here mentioned that you program the ECU to recognize the key fob, not the other way around. So it seems like the car has lost its memory of the fob? I replaced the fob battery with a brand new Energizer 2032. Red led blinks solid. It does not however blink if used as SKS, when this malfunctioning happens. I believe they blink when the buttons are pressed (hard to see in the sun).

    So I am back to square one. Should I buy another fob and try programming that? Or should I look if there's something wrong with the car? ECU?

    Also, the Audio rotary volume control does not work, but at some point it was working intermittently, and the buttons for selecting the mode are also intermittent, but the steering controls works and so does the rotary tuning knob. I've read posts here that says it's due to
    a buggy satellite radio.Is there a recall or a fix for this? What's annoying is that you cannot turn off the radio when this happens.

    I think I have typed in a long enough blurb, hopefully someone can point me in the right direction.
     
  7. ZeroM8

    ZeroM8 Junior Member

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    Thanks Tideland Prius, appreciate it. See my reply below...detailing my dilemma...
     
  8. sam spade 2

    sam spade 2 Senior Member

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    OK, let's try one more time........now that you have supplied additional information.

    The "extra" blinks likely are an indication that the requested function did NOT complete normally so it is trying again, until it either DOES work or it gives up.

    Good luck.
     
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  9. Tideland Prius

    Tideland Prius Moderator of the North
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    And then I get reports about your messages because you rubbed them the wrong way. :(
     
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  10. Tideland Prius

    Tideland Prius Moderator of the North
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    It could be the fob. I’m wondering if it’s sending two pulses or signal each time you press lock (as opposed to one pulse) and that’s why the car is acknowledging with four blinks instead of two?

    The long beep sounds like the one where the cad can’t detect the SKS fob while the car is on, leading me to believe it could be the fob. (This happens even if the fob is inserted into the dash?)


    I believe the PWR button for the radio is a separate button and isn’t integrated into the volume knob, no? Or did they change that for 2006-2009?
     
  11. sam spade 2

    sam spade 2 Senior Member

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    To be expected sometimes.
    Reese's.
     
  12. ZeroM8

    ZeroM8 Junior Member

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    *That was my initial assessment that the fob was faulty or wasn't programmed properly. Pls note though that when I did the fob re-programming I started at "Procedure B" posted by Daves09Prius, not wanting to risk losing the start/stop feature as it's the only fob I have, by going through "Procedure A" first.

    And it did work, save the number of blinks. I tested it multiple times in and out of the car using SKS, and starting it multiple times. Until the next day when it doesn't.

    *Also forgot to mention that the door lock button on either the driver side or passenger side does not work after the car has been off for a while, unless the car is started and works for a bit after power off, for how long I have to time it at some point. The door lights also behave the same way, i.e
    works for a bit until later or the next day. So it's almost like NOT an electrical or physical issue but a feature/programming one.

    *The annoying long single beep happens whether the fob is inserted or not when the car is started.

    *The fob blinks when close to the car attempting to open via SKS. It also blinks if the buttons are pressed, just confirmed it this morning. It just wouldn't open the doors so I have to use the key.

    * I am inclined to just order a key from eBay for about C$100, before attempting to re-program, hesitating for now as I could get hit by customs fee, though still cheaper than the dealership. I called Attrell Toyota close by, one of the better dealership I think in here as they did my 2004 recall back then. They quoted me C$450 for everything, ouch, so looking at local options too, aka Kijiji.

    *I'm beginning to like the car in spite of the quirks, has a good audio sound other than the keys and volume control not working when you want it to. Runs really well, I am currently getting 4.8 to 5.1 L per a hundred kms.

    *The power button is separate, on the leftmost of the row of buttons for mode selection. It's the same as my 2004, save for the AM/Sat single button instead of just AM. So the power button is not integrated to the volume button as you can pop it in and out. I believe they are all the same for this generation, with differences of course as what extra features they have, i.e extra features/sat radio.

    *The ac loses cooling after running for a period of time, I am suspecting my old compressor is also faulty as this was the same behavior I had in my 2004 (remember I swapped it) but that's something I can deal with / my mechanic can address

    *I may just get a Techstream trial CD/connector and give it a shot. I had one before but couldn't get it to work and just gave up having not enough time to poke around with it.

    Is it helpful in this situation? I can understand it is helpful for other diagnosis, and costwise seems reasonable.

    Once I get a new fob and got it programmed with this "faulty one" I can at least tell if it's the fob, I think that's the easiest solution for now as Tideland also suggested. Will report the results once I get it done.

    Oh you did mention that the fob could be sending two pulses hence the multiple blinks? Or that the car could not detect the fob when it's on? I'll do some more troubleshooting while waiting for the other fob...

    Any suggestions or questions are more than welcome. Hey multiple heads are way better than one. That's why these multitude of inputs and experiences in here are so helpful to the Prius lovers out there.

    TIA
     
    #12 ZeroM8, Aug 24, 2021
    Last edited: Aug 24, 2021
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  13. sam spade 2

    sam spade 2 Senior Member

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    I think a couple of us have suggested getting the 12 V battery checked......yet you seem to be ignoring that.
    Why ??
     
  14. ZeroM8

    ZeroM8 Junior Member

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    Hey Sam, I wasn't too detailed before. When I bought it the seller insisted the battery is good, though couldn't verify it as there was no date code or anything.

    So in the process of elimination, I swapped the one I had from my old 2004 . It's 3 yr old but I know it's good as it was running on my 2004 without issues, and of bigger size, i.e. more mAh. Battery voltage is between 13.6-14.2.

    So I'm at least 80% sure the 12V battery is fine. My challenge now is that I don't really have another fob to try and program and eliminate some of the doubts. The fob I ordered initially I thought comes from the US is actually shipped from China and estimated to arrive mid September. I am checking Amazon right now to see if I get one quicker.

    There's no other way for me to do more diagnosis now, maybe you can suggest other options? Thanks.
     
  15. sam spade 2

    sam spade 2 Senior Member

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    You are making some possibly invalid assumptions here.
    Mainly the voltage that you quoted.
    13.6 to 14.2 is the system CHARGING voltage when running and has nothing to do with the voltage or health of the battery itself.

    It would be more informative to let it sit untouched for 12 to 24 hours and then measure the voltage on the battery itself.......WITHOUT starting the engine; without going into ready mode.
     
  16. ZeroM8

    ZeroM8 Junior Member

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    Hi Sam, it's hard to imagine two batteries exhibiting the same behavior, esp with one of them I used without any issues on my traded in 2004. It doesn't mean it can't happen, but still unlikely.

    Unless something is draining the battery. However it starts the car fine, I know from experience, low 12V battery can throw the car off sideways, as the computer systems can not figure out what to do, i.e. can't read sensors and statuses properly so it will just refuse to do anything, until all safety systems are checked.

    Actually now would be a good time to measure with my meter, I have parked the car and have not driven it for two days, as it's so hot here in GTA past week, and my a/c is broken again, likely the compressor.

    Will report back with readings...
     
  17. ZeroM8

    ZeroM8 Junior Member

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    Here's the voltage...you think this is low? It's been sitting for two days... 16301664259058756253592059441787.jpg 16301665324183520304315661696481.jpg

    The first one is with the car off, the second one on.
     
    #17 ZeroM8, Aug 28, 2021
    Last edited: Aug 28, 2021
  18. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    a little weak
     
  19. ZeroM8

    ZeroM8 Junior Member

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    What would you think the battery Voltage should be? You think the battery needs replacement?

    Just not convinced that the battery voltage is that low, and not able to run the sks but runs the car computers fine. I would imagine the sks systems should be less sensitive to voltage levels than the computer systems that checks the entire system during startup. The car goes on ready mode each start, no hiccups so far, both on the old battery and this one currently in use.
     
    #19 ZeroM8, Aug 28, 2021
    Last edited: Aug 28, 2021
  20. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    the static voltage is almost inconsequential. the important voltage is with a load on the battery with the car off.
    try turning on everything you can in on or acc mode, and see what it drops to.

    i have seen the sks go flaky with everything else working due to a bad 12. but i'm not sure that is your problem.