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Help narrowing things down

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Technical Discussion' started by Totalnewb, Sep 30, 2021.

  1. Totalnewb

    Totalnewb New Member

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    Ok so I just bought a 08 Prius from a dealer. Took for a test drive and all seemed fine. Then we signed the paperwork and got the keys and didn't even make it out of the parking lot when the red triangle, vsc, and check engine light came on. It was late so he cleared the code and said to give him a call in the morning so we could figure things out. Well he's been 'busy' the last two days and I'm trying to figure out what the problem is. My reader spit out the codes as follows.
    P1121
    C1259
    1310
    B1200
    P3011
    P3000.
    The car only runs on gas motor when triangle is on. Doesn't shut down when stopped. Has reduced power. Poor gas mileage.
    Did a battery check after reading some things on here but I wanted some help on where to start or a solution.
    Thanks in advanc
     
  2. SFO

    SFO Senior Member

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    Welcome to PriusChat!!

    At a minimum you have a failed HV battery, they likely cleared the codes before your test drive and then knowingly sold you a lemon.

    Which state are you in, maybe you have access to a lemon law : https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lemon_law#United_States

    FYI : your posts are being moderated until you've posted 5 times.
     
  3. Totalnewb

    Totalnewb New Member

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    It didn't show an a080 code or wherever, not the battery CPU?
     
  4. mr_guy_mann

    mr_guy_mann Senior Member

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    Well, the P3000 is "hey, there's a code in the battery ecu" , while P3011 is the battery ecu saying "battery block #1 becomes weak" (ie, the voltage of block #1 is/was too low compared to the highest voltage of any of the other blocks). I would expect that a P0A80 would also be present, but that might depend on how quickly the fault occurred.
    It might be a failed battery module in the pack, or might be a problem with a voltage sense wire or connection at the battery ecu (corrosion damage there isn't uncommon). You would have to see the battery data in order to figure out what is wrong.
    Anyway, the dealer should be doing this- I would be parked in front of the main door raising heck with everyone - including informing any other customers- until they fixed the problems. No way they didn't know about most of what you see.

    Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
     
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  5. Another

    Another Senior Member

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    Maybe post the dealer name so everyone else is made aware of risks dealing with them. Assume it was not a Toyota dealer? If it was, maybe contact Toyota customer service given the problem was more likely than not already known to them.
     
  6. PaulthePriusAddict

    PaulthePriusAddict Junior Member

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    Aw man you got sold a lemon. Id listen to SFO. P1211 is an easy fix. Just change the coolant valve. Your mileage will go up. I lagged on mine. Wish i would have done it sooner. Its easy to change. 30 minutes.
    Like mr_guy_mann says, im also surprised that you didnt get the P0A80. Hearing your story and seeing your codes. I wouldnt drive that car. WIth the P1121 you can wait on that. I drove maybe 1-2 years like that. The valve is just stuck open but replace it as soon as possible. These 3 codes
    C1259
    1310
    B1200
    IMO i wouldnt care about those. Guessing those will go away once you fix problem. Take it to a mechanic and replace the pack with new one or used one. If your handy you can watch youtube and change it yourself. If i was stuck with that lemon, I wouldn't do that though.

    I'd buy a Bafx wireless OBD 2 reader for 20$ and pay 5$ for Torque Pro app. Use an android. Youtube search 2007 toyota prius hybrid battery torque pro. Set Torque up to monitor HV Battery. Watch CtrlAltDefeatTV and macdaddypimpping video. It will show you how to put a load on battery. LIke turn on the AC. You can notice if any other blocks are bad. It will drop low too. Most likely hat's not going to be the case. Like Mr_guy_mann says P3011 is block 1. That's the easiest block to change.

    Next thing is go on Ebay and buy a used cell. It's going to be like 22$ and maybe buy a cheap volt meter for like 10$. Volt meter to test which one of the cells is bad in Block 1.

    There are two cells in a block. Remember this one okay. Standing from the trunk and looking at Hybrid battery. Block 1 starts on the right and goes to the left. Each block has 2 cells. Watch and study youtube. Its like a 5-6 hour job your first time. Just make sure you remove the orange power plug thingy first. To insure you dont kill youself.

    Okay im gong to pretend you have 0 tools. Id buy a trim remover tool. 5$ and a ratchet set. You just need a 8, 10 and 12 mm on ratchet set 3/8 is my preference but 1/2 inch is fine. maybe 15$ plus. And a torque wrench 22$(or breaker bar). 3/8 is my preference but 1/2 inch is fine. Make sure you have matching sizes. To complete your set. Either 3/8 or 1/2. Id go 3/8 because its cheaper too. Id buy those at harbor freight. (Not the volt meter there though.) Then buy a 14mm (6$) I believe thats the size, you should check on youtube. Id use the torque wrench/breaker with 14mm bar to remove 4 bolts on back seat. You might not need the torque wrench/breaker bar if you want to save money. If the handle is long enough on rachet set, it may work. I recall that bolt is on tight though. If it doesnt, id put the rachet on and hammer the handle to try to loosen.

    That's 105$ plus 5-6 hours plus youtube study time.Once thats competed. Id watch youtube on p1211 and buy part 50-100$ and change that using your new rachet set.

    if all goes well. That's 105$ + 50$=155$ total spent and time.

    Btw with the torque app you can clear all the faulty codes too.

    Doing that right there. Im pretty confident, it will repair your problem with no codes.

    One more detail though. I dont want to get your hopes up. i dont how long the fix will last. I dont know the current state of your HV battery. If its a bad battery then its a bad battery pack. Cool thing about this route is if is again. You know what to do. 2nd time is even faster. lol

    I drive a 2007 and I drive slow and hyper cruise a lot. Hyper cruising always tops off the battery. I believe I have a good battery still. After the fix. On my dash battery meter, my battery pack is green all the time. For me if my hybrid battery goes out again. Its going to be 22$ + 4 hours.

    Ill add in one more thing. While researching people are going to talk about power balancing. Don't believe that, its garbage. People that think its not garbage, feel free to leave a post on why its important.
     
  7. PaulthePriusAddict

    PaulthePriusAddict Junior Member

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    Last thing, while your in there. Clean the hybrid battery fan. Youtube.

    I tried to get smart and use a brush. Doesn't work.

    Best way, just rinse the fan under water.
     
  8. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    No need to guess about those two, they're well known. C1259 and C1310 mean you have codes from the HV system (which you already knew). They'll go away when you don't have codes from the HV system.

    B1200 has to do with a communication issue between the body ECU and the gateway ECU. Maybe that one won't just go away, but that's bridge you can cross when you get there.
     
  9. dolj

    dolj Senior Member

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    There are 12 cells in a block, six in each of the two modules and there are two modules per block. I mention this just so that consistent terminology is used which in turn aids in clear understanding by everyone.
    It is not garbage, but if you are extremely lucky with a number of things lining up nicely all in a row, it may be unnecessary. It seldom is, though.

    By doing a proper top and bottom balancing regime, you might just reclaim some lost capacity that was lost to cell memory, and while memory effect is nowhere as pronounced with NiMH as it was with NiCd, it does happen over time, especially with the way Toyota has programmed the BMS to use only the 40% - 80% range of the battery. YMMV.

    One thing you will know is that if you do a proper balance regime, the overall repair will last longer than if you don't do any balancing. Lack of proper balancing is what potentially causes secondhand batteries to be so unreliable. Again YMMV.