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Been through gambit with my 2001 need help

Discussion in 'Generation 1 Prius Discussion' started by Kurtis, Sep 7, 2021.

  1. Kurtis

    Kurtis New Member

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    Location:
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    Vehicle:
    2002 Prius
    Model:
    ----USA----
    So I ended up replacing the magnetic clutch and the magnet doesn’t pull in the pressure plate. Idc about the ac right now, I discovered the parking brake screw was out and the passenger wheel was stuck cause of it. now I’m back to the inverter codes. 3125-265
    What exactly does that mean? This car has me up the wall right now. How do I fully test the inverter?
     
  2. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    How are you testing, what was the voltage at the time, and what was your procedure for setting the clutch gap? (Or, if you have not set the gap yet, have you measured its initial value, and if so, how?)

    It is possible for a gap to be so excessive that the magnetic field is weak at that distance. On top of that, ordinarily when we test the clutch, the car is not in READY mode (that would be very hazardous!), meaning the system voltage is lower, which also weakens the field. See this post.

    There is a circuit with mnemonic NODD used for communication between the HV ECU and the DC/DC converter. It is a blue-with-orange-stripe wire between H12 pin 4 at the HV ECU and C4 pin 4 at the converter. It is open-circuited or shorted to ground somewhere.
     
  3. Kurtis

    Kurtis New Member

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    Location:
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    2002 Prius
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    I used feeler gauges and measured the initial space which was .043 and i did turn the car to ready. The clutch should automatically engage? I’m confused because it didn’t




    my question is where is the hv ecu located? It seems my manual is missing some pages. I couldn’t even find putting the clutch back together and certain torque values.
    Also so this doesn’t necessarily mean the inverter replacement is bad? I was given a 6 month warranty for it. When I blew everything could I have also blown the hv ecu? I only have one* (history and current) codes now though.

    my symptoms are this currently. The car goes in ready mode and starts up. Initially the car didn’t stall until after around ten mins, then went to 3 mins and now stalls pretty quickly. The inverted pump wasn’t making the stream noise, so I bled the inverter a little ( it hadn’t been properly bled yet). The inverter pump I replaced about a year ago.

    Any ways when the car starts up I know the car about to stall because the display starts blinking and glitching until it shuts off and then the car shuts off and it seems to be stalling. Prius’s can’t stall so it is definitely an electrical issue. My mom’s bf is an electrical engineer and he checked to see if there continuity are the ground of the inverter and he confirmed there was. He also checked the old converter capacitors and they all read like they should. I have not checked the replacement inverter innards because that will void the warranty. One other thing I snapped off the bolt for the original ground that went to the original inverter so I created a new ground by scrapping paint to bare metal. As I said that ground has continuity.
     
  4. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    Vehicle:
    2010 Prius
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    IV
    Back in #34 in this thread I included steps for setting the clutch gap. In that post there was a link to another post on how you can easily actuate the clutch to take the measurement. You definitely do not want the car to be READY while you are doing that work. If it picks that moment to start the engine, there go your fingers.

    I don't know how you settled on .043 (inches, I trust) for the initial gap. As you saw in post #34, the spec (given in mm) is 0.5mm ± 0.15mm. In inches, that's around .020 so you are out around twice that. At that distance, the pressure plate is barely even in the field of the magnet coil.


    You are running down the 12 volt battery until there is not enough left to keep the electrical system alive, because the DC/DC converter isn't operating to keep it charged. The indicated problem with the NODD circuit could be in the inverter or in the HV ECU, sure, but also could be in the wiring between them. An open circuit or a short to ground is something the electrical engineer bf ought to be able to find.

    Working from incomplete manuals or wiring diagrams can be inconvenient. We have a wiki page that Elektroingenieur put together that collects a lot of known options for access to the complete manuals and diagrams.
     
    WHCSC likes this.