My Prius dead again, with techstream this time.

I've never had a Chrysler.
But plenty of fords, chevys, and a 280 z.
NO blown headgaskets. Five Goldwings.... NO blown headgaskets.

 

Same setup I have. Hoses are a joke.
My hoses come from the back.
Oddball size on the catch can as I had to wrap electrical tape around the cc tube for proper fit.
Plus the o ring for the cap doesn't last very long.
It will never overflow if you check it once or twice a month.

 

Look for fuel hose, more'n likely 3/8" ID. Spec SAE30R7 (or ...R6) is good. You can buy it by the foot at most any automotive specialty store, for a buck or two per.

 

NAPA is a good source for 3/8 inch gas line hose. They still sell it by the foot, instead of packaged specific lengths.

If you want clear like the supplied hoses, the stuff that looks the same sold in the plumbing department at Home Depot or Lowe's is much stiffer and stronger, It does not collapse when you squeeze it between your fingers,

 

1996 Grand Caravan V6 blew its rear bank HG externally at 35,000 miles… Bars Leaks held it until it was stolen at 125,000+ miles.

 

I don't have mine mounted. It just hangs there. WorKS perfect. I'll send a pic later.
It's rite by the headlight. Just swings back. Been there for 75,000 miles.

 

The second pictured mount you posted is just a large aluminum L stock that has one side of the L cut off. The other side of the L has been bent away to mount the catch can.

The location near the engine coolant reservoir on the top is the location I relocated my OCC to recently. There is a bolt holding a bracket that holds the two aluminum refrigerant lines for the AC. I fashioned a mount using an L bracket and some 1/8 inch L shaped aluminum stock I had and put it under the mentioned bolt.

I drilled a hole in the L angle aluminum and secure the OCC mount to it with a ziptie. When the hex cap screws on the OCC mount are snugged tight, the OCC is firmly mounted and will not come loose.

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It wouldn't be hard to make a bracket from an aluminum plate and other pieces of aluminum bar to make a bracket secured to that large stud sticking up from the engine mounting stud. Another flange nut could easily hold it in place without disturbing the original nut.

I'd, however avoid any contact with the thin aluminum AC line as it could damage it.

 

I used AN type fittings for my installation. In particular, I used these two types to relocate my PCV valve to the OCC and to make a 180 degree change of direction to the OCC location. The AN6 to M16x1.5 fitting screws right into the PCV valve location or the catch can,they are both threaded the same, that's why you can screw the PCV valve directly into the OCC.

In addition I swapped the inlet and outlet from the indicated ports that the manufacturer uses on the catch can. The reason for doing this was explained elsewhere. I also put in extra fine mesh stainless steel to greatly increase the surface area in the catch can to condense more oil vapor/mist out of the flow going through the catch can.

I also put fiberglass heat shield around the OCC hoses that pass between the engine block and intake manifold to keep temps lower so that theoretically it is easier for the oil vapor to condense on the surfaces in the OCC.



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The only thing I'd would to ditch the original mounting bracket on the can and hold it in place to the inside the "v" of the vertically positioned aluminum angle with a large stainless steel worm drive hose clamp. That would allow easy removal for emptying with either a 5/16 inch nut driver or a flat blade screwdriver.

 

Here is the stainless mesh I put in the OCC. I cut 3 inch wide strips of the mesh, rolled it up into cylinders and crimped the ends of one side of the cylinder and folded it over twice. There are at least three or more layers of the mesh in the large cylinder. The smaller cylinder was made by cutting the mesh into a 3 inch wide strip, then cutting that strip in half, so about 6 inches long. Then I secured them further with some wire I had. The small cylinder of mesh is now the inlet, and the large side is now the outlet with stainless steel potscrubber in both the mesh funnel and the OCC outlet screw in canister.

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Easier than aluminum fittings would be this multi-curve 3/8 inch gas line that can be cut to get the specific elbow bend that you need.

For Mendel: Sidewinder 3/8" Molded Curved Fuel Line Rubber Hose Elbow Universal 45 90 135 180

 

Looks like it would rattle against the inverter or the frame above the headlight.

Also, why is one hose clamped and the other hose not clamped?

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Never has rattled in 3 years and 85,000 miles
Hose without clamp was super hard to push on........ didn't need a clamp.
There is a clip on the can that rests on the front of the grill.

 

Saw that early on, I guess on hindsight it would be a good way to go. You'd still need a few barb connectors to join everything together.

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Here's a good silicone hose that will do 1-1/2 inch radius bends.

For Mendel: HPS Performance 3/8" ID Blue high Temp Reinforced Silicone Heater Hose 10 feet roll, Max Working Pressure 80 psi, Max Temperature Rating: 350F, Bend...