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2006 Gen2: Oil Consumption Almost Completely Reduced

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by ydpplqbd, Jul 1, 2020.

  1. ydpplqbd

    ydpplqbd Active Member

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    I bought a 2006 Gen2 with about 200k and a bad battery. After getting the battery replaced and driving my Gen2, I found that the motor was consuming about 1/2 quart of oil every 1500 to 1700 miles. Not a terrible situation but not ideal.

    As a result, I did the following: i.) changed oil change interval to 3500 to 4000 miles; ii.) started using Shell Rotella straight 40W oil*; iii.) installed an oil catch can between PCV valve and intake's vacuum port; iv.) drive my Gen2 almost every day; and v.) use only 3.5 quarts of oil at each oil change rather than the maximum of 3.9 quarts (appears to reduce windage issues).

    Oil consumption has been getting better and better (less and less oil consumed) since I bought it. Oil catch can is now catching about a TBSP of spoils every 1800 miles (versus 6 ounces every 1800 miles when I first installed it). Oil catch cans usually usually capture more spoils in winter (so we shall see how much spoils I am capturing this winter).

    I am about 2200 miles into my most recent oil change and the oil consumption is between 1/10 quart and nil. I need to wait until the next oil change (in about 1800 miles) to determine the absolute consumption during this oil change interval. During this oil change interval, I drove about 400 miles with my 5'x8' trailer attached (IOW not easy driving for the engine).

    My theory:
    oil rings were gummed-up when I first purchased my Gen2. Rings were ungummed by reduction in blowby (reduced by using straight 40W oil), reduction in windage by shortsticking oil level at each oil change (namely, using 3.5 quarts), reduction in spoils in crankcase due to oil catch can, daily driving, and Shell's anti-sludge and varnish additives. It all seems too good to be true but it really is happening here.

    *- Shell Rotella straight weight oil has "optimized dispersant content to help prevent engine sludge and varnish deposits." See Shell Rotella® T1 Straight Grade | Shell ROTELLA®

    PS I have never had an oil burner stop burning oil before. But my mechanic friend says he has seen it happen every once in a while in his 50+ years of wrenching.

    PPS Since installing the oil catch can, the P0420 DTC no longer comes on except for one occasion where I failed to empty the oil catch can on a timely basis (thereby allowing spoils to be sucked into intake and ultimately end up in the exhaust, cat and sensors).
     
    #1 ydpplqbd, Jul 1, 2020
    Last edited: Jul 1, 2020
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  2. JerryScript

    JerryScript Junior Member

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    You were losing 0.5 quarts, you reduced your fill amount by 0.5 quarts, now your consumption is down to a tablespoon.

    Just curious, are you jacking the car up when you drain the oil pan? If so, you could be leaving up to a half quart in there due to the tilt, so reducing your fill amount made the actual amount in the car equal out. Just a theory!
     
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  3. ydpplqbd

    ydpplqbd Active Member

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    My Gen2 is placed on a lift when oil is changed. Additionally, I make sure that the plug is open for at least 5 minutes to get all the oil out.

    A second check on full emptying of crankcase: I make sure that the container of new oil has only 3.5 quarts of oil in it at oil change time. Then, I check the dipstick after refilling with oil and briefly running. Refilling with 4/10 of quart less than maximum places oil level between max and add-oil dots on the dipstick (which is exactly what happens).
     
    #3 ydpplqbd, Jul 1, 2020
    Last edited: Jul 1, 2020
  4. SFO

    SFO Senior Member

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    Curious what weight you might use in the winter months, or do you have a heated garage?
     
  5. ydpplqbd

    ydpplqbd Active Member

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    I will likely be using Shell Rotella 10W-40 or 15W-40 this winter coming up.
     
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  6. Moses Bruh

    Moses Bruh Member

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    wow straight 40, the site says its for tractors or heavy duty vehicles? what are the common conventional oil types used for oil eating?
     
  7. ydpplqbd

    ydpplqbd Active Member

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    Initially, when I purchased my Gen2 Prius, I had a ton of blowby. After I tired of constantly topping off the oil and P0420 codes, the blowby was captured by the after-market oil catch can that I installed. The spoils collected in winter typically were made up of the following: water (20%), unburned fuel (5%), aerated oil and water mixed into an emulsion with the color of peanut butter(50%) and consistency of a loose mayonaise, and motor oil (25%). Initially (in winter), I was collecting about 6 ounces of spoils every 1500 to 1800 miles. Today (in summer), I am collecting about 1 TBSP of oil only every 1800 to 2000 miles.

    Straight 40W restored compression to my 1.5l motor and greatly reduced blowby. In addition, Shell Rotella has anti-varnish and anti-sludge additives which apparently removed the varnish and sludge from my rings over about 12k miles (or three oil changes). Thereby, resolving the oil consumption problem (with varnish and sludge removed from the rings, my oil consumption is now almost nil).
     
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  8. edthefox5

    edthefox5 Senior Member

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    Peanut butter and mayonnaise? What the heck is that? Where’s the water coming from?

    If you didn’t have that oil catch can it would dump all that right into the throttle body. Sounds like some awful oil there or blown rings.

    My bought new 07 was starting to eat a little oil. I moved over to Redline oil 5-30 which is a 40 weight oil at op temp and has a ZDDP package and that stopped that oil loss. No mileage impact and engine loves it. My throttle body is clean as a whistle.
    And at 160000 miles you can eat off the valve train it looks brand new.

    This is not a sludgy motor whatsoever if there’s any sludge it’s coming from it’s oil quality combined with bad rings allowing big blow by. The oil catch can will help by not dumping that stuff back in the throttle body.
    But something is causing really big blow by.
     
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  9. ydpplqbd

    ydpplqbd Active Member

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    Hot and cold cycles of a gasoline engine cause water condensation (larger temperature difference in winter thus more condensation in winter). Water that I was finding in my oil catch can in winter was of two ("2") types: i.) plain-old-water from condensation; and ii.) plain-old-water mixed with aerated engine oil* (thereby forming an emulsion with the color of peanut butter and consistency of a loose mayonnaise). Frequently, automotive engine oil is aerated by windage (usually, crankshaft weights striking oil in crankcase and aerating it). IOW, no coolant is being consumed, water is condensing inside the engine (and being trapped in my oil catch can), and some of the water condensate mixes/emulsifies with aerated oil to form the emulsion with the color of peanut butter and consistency of a loose mayonnaise.

    You can find pics of spoils from my catch can at post #11 in the following thread: Oil Catch Can from Ebay Installed | PriusChat

    *- emulsions are an exception to "oil and water do not mix". Similarly, mayonnaise is an emulsion formed by mixing aerated egg yolk (water base) with oil.

    PS Almost no spoils now (summer) being collected in the oil catch can. Additionally, almost no oil consumption any longer.
     
    #9 ydpplqbd, Jul 3, 2020
    Last edited: Jul 3, 2020
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  10. edthefox5

    edthefox5 Senior Member

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    Dont see any condensation down here its so hot. But in the winter I can see that.
     
    #10 edthefox5, Jul 3, 2020
    Last edited: Jul 3, 2020
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  11. ydpplqbd

    ydpplqbd Active Member

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    12292021 Update:

    Oil consumption continues to be minimal. I recently returned from a 2500 mile trip where I was traveling at 70mph to 74mph for hours and hours. Normally I operate my Gen2 at 61mph or 62mph. Despite increased travel speed, oil consumption was very small (maybe 2 or 3 ounces). I am still running Shell Rotella 15W40. I have put about 64k miles on car in the last 26 months. And, oil consumption continues to be minimal despite having 264k on engine and transmission.
     
  12. ydpplqbd

    ydpplqbd Active Member

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    Almost time for next LOF. I am contemplating switching from Rotella 15W40 to Walmart's Super Tech 100% synthetic oil 10W40. I change oil and filter about every 5000 miles. As far as I can tell, the detergent in the Shell Rotella over the last 60k of miles in combination with the oil catch can have removed the engine sludge and unstuck (the previously stuck) piston oil control rings. Please let me know your thoughts, recommendations and concerns on switching from Shell Rotella synthetic 15W40 to Walmart 100% synthetic Super Tech 10W40. 20220117_092445759.jpeg
     
    #12 ydpplqbd, Jan 17, 2022
    Last edited: Jan 17, 2022
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  13. privilege

    privilege Active Member

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    that's cool, I like success stories, especially when it involves rotella hurting people's feelings that bash it, lol !

    it would have been really cool if you had gotten a compression test for each cylinder before you started the rotella experiment, and then another today.

    either way, you've had very good results, yay!

    I would stick with the high detergent rotella instead of switching to synthetic. it's working enjoy the benefits.

    thanks for the update btw
     
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  14. nemebean

    nemebean Junior Member

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    It's worth a shot to try the SuperTech (which according to everything I've read is actually quite good oil too). If nothing else it will give you another data point - is it just the Rotella that solved the oil consumption or did it unclog the rings so the oil no longer matters as much? You can always go back to the Rotella if it starts burning oil again.
     
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  15. ydpplqbd

    ydpplqbd Active Member

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    Oil catch can is capturing about 80% of catch can volume every 2000 to 2500 miles (BUT ONLY IN WINTER TIME). Over time, the composition of oil catch can has changed. Namely, less oil, less oil/water emulsion, more water and a bit more raw fuel.
     
  16. SFO

    SFO Senior Member

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    The "SAPS" content should be lower in the super tech, which is a good thing for your Catalytic health.

    Will place this here for reference :

    upload_2022-1-19_9-25-38.jpeg
     
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  17. ydpplqbd

    ydpplqbd Active Member

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    What is "SAPS" content?
     
  18. OC63RAG

    OC63RAG Member

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    Thanks for sharing this info and your success with the Rotella. Just curious, why are you considering switching away from the Rotella if it seems to be working well?
     
  19. ydpplqbd

    ydpplqbd Active Member

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    I went to three different stores (namely, Walmart, Tractor Supply and Lowes) multiple times. All are sold out.
    Or, in the case of Lowes, it appears they no longer carry Shell Rotella in their stores.
     
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  20. SFO

    SFO Senior Member

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    SAPS is an acronym, and it stands for Sulfated Ash, Phosphorus, and Sulfur.

    https://klondikelubricants.com/05/low-and-mid-saps-content-in-european-engine-oils-explained/

    " What Is “SAPS” Content?

    SAPS is a common term used to describe a particular ratio of content in European engine oils. SAPS is an acronym, and it stands for Sulfated Ash, Phosphorus, and Sulfur.

    SAPS content is needed to help retain the engine oil’s Total Base Number (TBN), resist viscosity shear loss and thermal breakdown, as well as protect against oxidation, wear, corrosion, and deposit formation; all of which are necessary for extended oil drain intervals.

    Sulphated Ash is the amount of metallic content that remains as a result of engine oil combustion. These are mostly derived from the engine oil’s anti-wear and detergent additive chemistry.

    Because Sulfated Ash deposits are non-combustible, they cannot be removed by regeneration, and will instead collect in the DPF or other exhaust aftertreatment device.

    Too high a concentration of Sulfated Ash will block the DPF, and can cause the engine to lose power and not function properly, and may cause deposits to form on internal engine parts, which can damage the engine.

    Phosphorus is an additive, providing anti-wear protection and improving oxidation resistance. The Phosphorus forms a thin layer on metal surfaces, limiting friction of metal parts rubbing together.

    Sulfur is also an additive, contributing to overall engine cleanliness, as well as providing anti-wear and antioxidant protection.

    Despite their favourable anti-wear and cleanliness properties, too high a concentration of Phosphorus and Sulfur content can poison and damage a vehicle’s catalyst converter, as well as lead to a buildup of Sulphated Ash in the engine and aftertreatment device."

    --

    https://www.acea.auto/publication/acea-oil-sequences-2021/

    If we were as cool as the europeans, then ACEA C1-16 (now discontinued), or the newest replacement ACEA C4-21 would be the real deal. Most vehicle manufactures require greater specifications, so that is also a option if your wallet affords such.

    After playing around with this tool ( Relative Performance Comparison Tool for Passenger Car Specifications - Engine Oil Additives - The Lubrizol Corporation ), most will just look for the current API SP / Dexos2 seals on the labels before making a purchase at the local shop.

    https://www.acea.auto/publication/acea-oil-sequences-2021/
     
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