My Prius dead again, with techstream this time.

It is hard to capture in a picture, but the refrigerant line has plenty of clearance. Thanks for pointing out the potential problem.

My takeaway from all this is that it is a great reason to learn about 3D printing on my friend's 3D printer. With a 3D printed part in ABS plastic, there is the possibility of making it a single piece of curved U channel, that avoids all obstacles that might cause rattles, or cut refrigerant lines. Best of all, I can share the results with other people on PC.

 

I like that idea, and I will revisit it when the part from China arrives (earliest date 12/29), and I start routing hoses to the OCC. I have run out of daylight this Sunday before Christmas, and I go back to my seasonal job with UPS tomorrow.

 

So I have completed installing @xliderider's approach Yesterday on my 2013 v. I am very pleased with @xliderider's help. What I really like about this location (as opposed to next to the driver headlight) is that it puts the OCC next to the oil dipstick. If I am thinking about oil level, I would be inclined to check if the can was full.

Most of the delay in completing this project was waiting for this part from China: Male -AN-6 Flare To M16x1.5 Metric Straight Fitting Metric Adapter Black

I took pictures, which I will post tomorrow.

Several things that would be useful to know in advance:

1) You need two hoses approximately 22 inches long, or 4 feet total per car. Don't forget that you need a 2.5 inch piece of hose to connect the PCV valve to a barb fitting. I used 3/8 inch ID, 1/2 inch OD transmission cooler hose which costs $2.50 per foot at Advance Auto. I bought 6 feet, since I plan to install an OCC on my 2017 v next. Now I need to buy 2 more feet.

2) The following 1/2 inch Hillman clamps were not big enough to fit over a 1/2 inch OD hose with a barb inside

(Amazon B00NQ9MZPA):

I had to buy 5/8 inch clamps: (Amazon B00NQ9MOBU)

Amazon refunded my 1/2 inch clamps and let me keep them.

3) The Aluminum bracket should be made from 1 inch by 1 inch Aluminum L stock. My first attempt with 1/2 inch by 3/4 inch L stock was not sturdy enough.

4) Getting the dimensions of the L bracket right took some doing. I found that 4.75 inches high was too high, and I cut it down to 4.0 inches. Once I trimmed the corner near the engine mount, the bracket lost some of its rigidity. I plan to use this piece as a model for a 3D printed ABS plastic version.​

Here is a photo of the completed job:

 

I insisted on buying the "Spring Clamp" style, which took two Amazon Purchases to get the right size. Still looking for a spring clamp for the large end of the U-shaped hose. That end of the hose fits comfortably inside a 7/8 inch socket.



Back in October, the dealer charged me for 3 OEM clamps, which turned out were of the worm drive variety. Note the marks on the U shaped hose:

Worm Clamp on Evap Purge Valve:


Worm Clamp on Large End of U-Hose


Worm Clamp on Small End of U-Hose

 

$9 bought a box of twenty clamps. It was just the pain of thinking that if I bought a box of twenty 1/2" clamps, they were meant for 1/2" OD hose, and that 1/2" would be in the middle of the grip range. Turns out that 1/2" meant the maximum limit of the spring clamp, which means they fit until you put a hose barb into the hose.

The 1/2" clamps listing were "Free returns" by Amazon, so I "returned" them. Amazon gave me my money back, and said I could keep the clamps.

Next, I tried a local Napa Auto, so I could test the clamps before purchase. They don't carry spring clamps at my local store. I wound up ordering a box of 20 5/8" clamps on Amazon, and they fit.

Now I am looking for the correct clamp for the large end of the U-shaped PCV hose. I suspect either 7/8" or 1" will fit. I will buy both, and return whatever does not fit.

 

TWO MONTHS LATER:
(Dec 17th to Feb 17th)
1.25 inch deep oil + water, looks like "coffee", with a little sludge in the bottom.


Source of awful Rattle sound (need to tighten Allen Head Screws more than finger tight):

 

I installed one piece of the fine mesh screen. I could not figure out how to attach the fine mesh screen to the input side of the can.

I am amazed that the can is 1/3 full after only about 3000 to 3500 miles. It is mostly water. We have had a colder winter so far, so I am hoping this is worst case. My intent was to empty it at every 5K oil change. Having the OCC next to the Dipstick makes it easier to remember to check how full it is.

 

The Allen bolts that hold the OCC to my bracket had worked their way loose. I had only tightened them finger tight. Recently, I started hearing a clacking sound like the CV joints or the rod bearings were going. It was the OCC hitting that strange bolt head. Re-tightening using an Allen key got rid of the noise.

I wanted to use "Thumbscrews", but they are not sold in M6x1.0 thread at Lowes. I could have used @xliderider's approach of a cable tie.