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2009 Prius - Revving sound??

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by daisy555, Mar 12, 2022.

  1. rjparker

    rjparker Tu Humilde Sirviente

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    These bearings will never fail in an unsafe way. Normally they don't ever get loose, they just howl.
     
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  2. daisy555

    daisy555 Senior Member

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    Yes, I see why you were confused! : ) To clarify...when I start the car and get going slowly in (electric) I don't hear the sound. I do hear the sound when I'm slowing down, decelerating with foot off the gas.

    I just spoke with the service manager again. I'm grateful he took me in right away this morning and didn't charge me. I was concerned maybe they didn't check under the hood. They checked under hood and under the car. He not only took a long test drive with me, he also sat in the back seat while tech drove the car. He is also getting back to me with a quote for non OEM parts so I can compare with other quotes.
     
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  3. daisy555

    daisy555 Senior Member

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    Thank you so much for clarifying. I have a history of getting stranded on the highway etc. so this noise is triggering! The service manager did say if they did the job they would replace the loud one first.
     
  4. daisy555

    daisy555 Senior Member

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    One of two reputable mechanics just told me he wouldn’t give me a quote. Insisted he would have to charge me to examine bolts and then put this payment towards cost of repair. I guess he doesn’t need the business.
     
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  5. rjparker

    rjparker Tu Humilde Sirviente

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    First, realize the dealer is getting his parts for maybe half of what he charges you and he marks up labor at least $100 an hour. On top of that, the dealer charges the number of labor hours by the book, a predetermined larger number of hours than it usually takes. Often twice the hours.

    Second you don't want the cheapest aftermarket bearings. There are $50 bearings but they don't last more than a few months or maybe a year. The dealer will double their price and still charge the book hours.

    Third, most dealer Service Advisors are not mechanics and never have been. They are typically commissioned sales employees. The more they ring up the more they make. Even the few that are on wages have quotas to reach. The average Service Advisor is not well paid, with a median income of $45k a year. They are not your friend regardless of how nice they seem.

    Some of these dealer tactics are fine if you are talking about a hybrid component and want genuine Toyota parts because you want the car to last five more years. However this bearing repair is the same on a Corolla or Camry. Easy. Any shop better than Jiffy Lube or Walmart can do it.

    These days a high percentage of a dealer's profit comes from service jobs because their car sales are way down.

    Private shops hate to be price shopped on the phone. But they will usually give you a free quote in person. Drive the car as is right now. Take the car to three of them over the next couple of weeks until you find one who will replace the bad hub. Tell them you are selling the car in a few months, don't want both bearings replaced if only one is bad but still want a "better" brand like Timken.

    Fyi... my 2012 rear hub bearing versus a new Timkin. The part number fonts, placement and welds were virtually identical to the oem. The front is a different design because of the front wheel drive. I did have the dealer change a front hub a few years ago with less than 100k miles. It had a speed sensor problem. It took them 90 minutes with a cost of around $350.

    Toyota OEM vs Timken Rear Hub Bearings.jpg
     
    #45 rjparker, Mar 14, 2022
    Last edited: Mar 14, 2022
  6. daisy555

    daisy555 Senior Member

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    Thank you! I know he’s not my friend but through the years he has treated me fairly and the only person in my 43yrs of driving who explains exactly what is going on and what to expect. (That is until I found Prius Chat) The service counter guys have no clue. I’ve received second opinions locally and sometimes it’s almost the same price as this dealer depending on the issue. Maybe it’s a combination of where I live and this dealership’s pricing is always lower than other dealers in the area. Obviously from what you all have said this quote is too high.

    Dealer labor is $125/hr and independent mechanic just quoted me $120/hr. I get but sometimes forget that the difference is dealers often charge by the book. I know this independent guy is so backed up that it often takes several months to get appt. which is why I never use him.

    I did just find a recommended mechanic who examines for free because he wants to be sure of what he’s dealing with despite dealers diagnosis. $75 / hr labor but I have to find a way to leave car for the day. Always my dilemma.

    He uses Napa parts only. I called Napa and they said their equivalent to the Timken is Napa part # BR930641 for $164 and has 3 yr warranty. I’m guessing that would be fine?

    Thanks again for the time you’ve spent walking me through this. Much appreciated!
     
    #46 daisy555, Mar 14, 2022
    Last edited: Mar 14, 2022
  7. rjparker

    rjparker Tu Humilde Sirviente

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    Probably. Ask them if the warranty includes labor. I know some auto supplies like Autozone warrant labor if the mechanic buys it.
     
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  8. TMR-JWAP

    TMR-JWAP Senior Member

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    Timken $105 and MOOG $91. Both reputable. Plenty of others at much lower prices.
    Too bad you're not near me. I'd bang it out both sides in an afternoon for $500 out the door, parts included.

    2009 TOYOTA PRIUS 1.5L L4 ELECTRIC/GAS Wheel Bearing & Hub | RockAuto

    Testing front wheel bearings:

    Shake Test: Identifying Play or Looseness
    1. Lift your vehicle so the wheel is off the ground
    2. Place your hands on the sides of the tire and try to shake the wheel
    3. Now place your hands on the top and bottom of the tire and try to shake the wheel again
    4. If you feel movement in both directions, you have play in your bearing and it needs to be replaced
    5. Note: If you feel movement when shaking the wheel left to right, but not top to bottom, you could have a worn out tie rod end. Similarly, if you have movement top to bottom, but not left to right, you may have a worn out ball joint.
    Spin Test: Identifying Noise or Grinding
    1. Lift your vehicle so the wheel is off the ground and can spin freely
    2. Spin the wheel, in either direction, and listen for a grinding or howling noise
    3. If you hear a loud grinding or howling noise, that increases with the speed of the wheel, you have a failed bearing that needs to be replaced
    4. Note: It is best to test both front or both rear bearings at the same time so you can compare the difference between the two sides. If you have a failed bearing, there will be a noticeable difference in the amount of noise you hear during this test
     
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  9. daisy555

    daisy555 Senior Member

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  10. daisy555

    daisy555 Senior Member

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    Sorry I’m not sure what went wrong with my reply. My thank you is buried at the top of my last reply that just looks like two copies of your reply. I’m not sure how to quote one sentence from someone’s previous reply.
     
    #50 daisy555, Mar 15, 2022
    Last edited: Mar 15, 2022
  11. daisy555

    daisy555 Senior Member

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    deleted
     
    #51 daisy555, Mar 15, 2022
    Last edited: Mar 15, 2022
  12. daisy555

    daisy555 Senior Member

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    Ok, I’m driving myself nuts now. Old school mechanic will start by replacing the left front with Koyo hub bearing which costs less than Napa's best and more than the cheapie ones. Quote to install two was $1048. He's not sure he has time to do the second one tomorrow and said it's not common for them to both go at the same time. If he needs to also replace the right one over the next couple of months, he will adjust the labor but doing this repair twice seems like a PIA to me.

    Toyota service manager just got back to me saying he priced non OEM hubs and they were more expensive than his OEM. He offered their employee discount of $575 instead of $725 or $1150 for two plus their typical 1 yr warranty on labor. I told him I had already committed to the other mechanic but now I think I should go with dealer…

    The old school guy said if they have a difficult time getting them off they might need to bill more.
    The dealer has typically stuck with his quote even if there was some additional time. Obviously if a sensor is damaged or something that’s another issue.

    My gut is telling me to get the replacement at the dealership. Pay the additional $50 or $100 if both need to be replaced. I’m often hit with Murphy’s law and this would give me some piece of mind. The old school place is these sweet older guys plugging along in a messy shop. My mind is running with “will they do as good a job as the dealer? Will they reuse a bolt instead of replacing with a new one?” Yucky PTSD from old times.

    My friend’s husband uses this dealer for most of his Prius work and has always felt confident in their skill and trustworthiness. He also uses the above mentioned mechanic and thinks they do great work but thinks piece of mind with dealership might be best. He had his hubs replaced at dealership years ago for $600 each and thinks it’s best to get them both replaced at the same time. The right one typically wears out first?

    Depending on the status of incoming new cars, I could be waiting a year for the car I want.

    Does this make sense or have I lost it completely?

    Thank you again!!
     
    #52 daisy555, Mar 15, 2022
    Last edited: Mar 15, 2022
  13. daisy555

    daisy555 Senior Member

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    The warranty on these Napa parts or other brand hubs do not include labor.
     
    #53 daisy555, Mar 15, 2022
    Last edited: Mar 15, 2022
  14. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    i also would go with the dealer
     
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  15. daisy555

    daisy555 Senior Member

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    Thanks, Bisco.
     
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  16. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    They're not the sort of job where doing two at once saves anybody labor. Driving the car onto the lift is the only shared common part. Other than that, they're two separate bearing hubs, on two separate corners of the car, and doing both is simply twice the work of doing one.

    So there's no real pressing reason to replace one that doesn't need it just because you're doing a different one that does. If your experience is anything like mine, it could be three more years or 50,000 more miles before another one is needed.
     
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  17. daisy555

    daisy555 Senior Member

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    Thank you! Everyone’s been saying it’s cheaper to do two? One quick question. These are the original wheel bearings (189,000 miles). Are they meant to last this long? I was reading that they typically last about 100,000 miles. Maybe they last longer on a Prius or I’ve been lucky they’ve lasted so long. I unfortunately do most of my driving in Rhode Island which is known for having horrible road conditions.
     
  18. rjparker

    rjparker Tu Humilde Sirviente

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    Most of the quality bearings will last more than 250k miles. They have a seal to keep water and dirt out of the bearings. Sometimes the seal is damaged, the grease is contaminated, the bearing starts making noise. Even then they typically do not get loose and almost never fail in a dangerous manner.
     
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  19. TMR-JWAP

    TMR-JWAP Senior Member

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    I replaced the original front hubs on my blue 2005 when it had 280k+ miles. I did the front hubs on the black 2005 when it had around 230k?

    Dang, $600 bucks a side. I need to get into that business! Could probably do 4 cars a day if the demand was there, lol.

    First set took all dang afternoon due to trying to use a puller and slide hammer to remove each hub. It wore my butt out. Second set was about an hour-hour and a half per side from taking tire off to putting tire back on. Knocked hub out of knuckle from the back by installing 4 long bolts (~5") and thumping the bolt heads with a hammer in a criss cross pattern. Popped right out. Will never go back to puller method.
     
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  20. daisy555

    daisy555 Senior Member

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    Thank you!