ECU swap?

I recently got a 2010 gen3 Prius with 217k miles. Not starting (I don't even hear the engine crank, only some electric current noise) but the dash shows the HV battery has more than half charged and the 12V battery is in good condition and fully charged (I took it off and used a CTEK charger to fully charge and recondition it). I have a small OBD2 CX(not techstream) and hooked it up and shows P0335 crankshaft position sensor DTC. Cleared the code, tried to start and again the P0335 showed up. I took the sensor off and measured the resistance, showed about 2kOhm at cold so within spec. I tested the wiring harness from the sensor to the ECM and it's all good. So according the repair manual, I should replace the sensor first and then if it doesn't work I should replace the ECM.

So now my question is: If I buy a used ECM(ECU) from ebay with exactly the same part number, is it going to be a plug-and-play direct swap or I need something to reprogram it?

 

I appreciate the thoughts and here's a more detailed diagnosis information after I received the mini VCI and could read the codes.

Regarding the crankshaft position sensor, I tested the sensor resistance, wiring harness all good. I also used my hand to feel the tone ring and it feels normal to me.

I hooked up techstream and found there are a few permanent codes in the engine ECU including P0117(coolant temp sensor) and P0300,P0302 and P0303 misfires that I assume should not cause the engine not starting. I did not find the P0335 code with the techstream (strange though). The hybrid system is giving me a P0A0F engine failed to start code.

I put it in maintenance mode (inspection mode) and attempted to start the engine. I did hear some noise like the transmission is trying to turn but not any cranking noise.

I also did try this: cleared all code and start the car. It shows ready and I put in drive and press gas pedal. The car moves a few feet and then throws the error message "check hybrid system" and refuse to move any further. I tried to put it to drive and it gives a pretty loud clunk.

Another thing I noticed is that a couple days ago when I attempted to start it, the instrument showed the HV battery has about 4-5 bars of charge, but today when I look at it again it only has 1 bar left. Techstream shows it has 20% charge and after I tried the inspection mode it dropped to about 19%.

My guess is: 1 the HV battery is too weak to power the motor to crank the engine (I doubt if this could happen as it shows about 20% charge left but the sudden drop of charge makes me wonder). 2 inverter problem? 3 trans input shaft?

 

My current plan is to open the HV battery and measure the cells, and possibly find something to charge/balance it before next try. Is there any way to tell the problem of the trans input shaft? I tried to rotate the engine by hand and it seems to be rotating fine.

 

That is exactly the information I need. I will take a look this evening and post back.

Just a little confused, it's the generator(MG1) that's being powered to crank the engine while the MG2 is actually the wheel speed? I assume the MG1 points to the motor generator that's powered by the HV battery and inverter? If the MG2 is actually showing wheel speed then it's funny to name it motor lol!

 

OK so I just read the freeze frame data and it looks like the MG1 is showing around 3-4krpm while the engine speed is 0. So it's the connection between engine and transaxle that's shot. I'm gathering the parts to do the repair so hope folks can help with some questions.

1. Is it almost sure the clutch damper or there could be something else? I tried to source the clutch damper part number 31270-47060 and US dealers sell for $700-1000 while there are sellers on ebay that sell for about $300-400 shipped from Japan (takes about 3 weeks to get to me). Folks have any other recommendations? I personally don't want to go with a used one as it seems this thing is subject to use...
2. I'm asssuming the best method to swap the clutch damper is to pull the engine from the top?
3. I'm thinking about also doing the head gasket and timing chain at the same time, so I'm considering if there's a possibility to do this work without a crane -- basically after removing the intake, exhaust, cylinder head and timing chain is it possible to lift the engine block out of the bay with probably 2 men? It looks like the 2ZR-FXE engine weighs about 214lbs so after removing these parts and drain the oil and coolant I'm estimating the cylinder block to weight about 100-150lbs which seems doable. If that's possible I can save the $250 cost to buy a crane from harbor freight (I have bought one before to remove the engine of a mercedes but didn't carry it with me during my last move...) Any thoughts?

 

Understand. The freeze frame is from the engine start request so I assume it was trying to spin the engine to start (the data shows engine speed request 1000+ that proves it). Unless there's any internal mechanical issue in the transmission I can't find other explanations why the engine stayed at 0, other than a failed clutch damper.

Regarding the parts sourcing, it looks like 13451-37080 is the flywheel assembly, which seems to contain both the flywheel and the clutch damper and is actually cheaper than the 31270-47060 clutch damper... Weird.

Also I'm thinking if I should just buy a used engine from a later year model and just swap in other than messing around with this engine? I heard the MY2010 has known piston ring issues...

 

Oh I forgot to mention, the freeze frame data shows MG1 about 4000rpm, MG2 and ICE both 0.