Prius wont get into ready mode, immobilizer (car+lock) symbol lights up

Hi i need help, i have a 2012 prius v with 250k miles
i reconditioned the hybrid battery 6 months ago
pressing the brake and power button, i get the immobilizer lock+car light show up on the dash, and the intermittent brake accumulator go off.
the remote fob locks/unlocks doors and interior lights work
i charged the 12v battery
changed the fob battery with a new one
still no ready and same dash light.

i popped the hood, found out i left the oil cap open it was just sitting on top and about 1/2 quart 500ml of oil splattered out
i see lots of oil slick all over the top of the engine
there is some oil around a couple of the spark plug connector clips
oil around the front ground post
oil around the front connector clips
could it be the oil making a bad connection somewhere near the engine?
or fuse, hybrid battery gone, hybrid battery safety plug unseated, try my other fob with new battery, oily ground post on the front of the engine, animals eating the wiring in the car.

any ideas why i cant get into ready mode?

 

i sprayed down and disconnected the oily spark plug connectors on the engine with dish soap and rinsed with water and let it dry will report back it if fixes it

 

update1: checked the engine bay fuses, they are good
check the 12v point under the hood reading 12.5v
tested both fobs with fresh battery, no go
my mechanic suggested to disconnect 12v battery and hybrid battery fuses then spray brake cleaner around the engine to clear up any oil residue in the wiring.
the 12v is not booting the car computer
im thinking most likely its animals getting into the ecu wiring or the oil spraying everywhere affecting a connection

 

update2:
checked 125a fuse under the hood and electrical box with multimeter it is ok, also confirmed by brake lights working.
checked the fuses they seem to be working, testing by using the contacts on the top with a multimeter (corrrect?)
checked the 5 30a fuses in the driver side (they do not have contacts on the top),4 manually pulled out and tested ok, 5th i checked visually is ok

bisco thanks for the suggestion, i will put out the cabin filter and see if there is any evidence of rodents. i know there is an entry way from the cabin filter and the car ecus are near there infront of the passenger side.

one thing im curious about car fuses, when i checked some of the 10a red fuses in the driver side cabin. if i have one negative lead on the left top contact of a fuse and then the other positive lead on the right contacts of the next few 10A fuses they all were connected (short). is that a short somewhere or normal behaviour? this is with car off, battery disconnected.

 

update3
cabin filter was fine, just crimped in half, no sign of animal activity.
opening the lower passenger glove i see there are a few ecus hidden there

chapmanF: yes i figured it was normally connected on one side

next steps are to get the wiring diagram and trace the power button and check that it the wiring works, hopefully its the power button!
next trace the main ecus, immobilizer and the systems that power up the engine and hybrid system

 

update4
amazingly i got techstream to connect to the car even with the car shut off and on 12v battery
pulled the historical & current codes U1133 Lost Communication with PMN Module
and historical code b278c Lost Communication With Power Source Control

techstream pulls limited codes but still works!

anyone with the repair manual for these two codes? much appreciated!

 

i found these might be related pics

 

followed the diagnostic path for b278c
i checked the voltage from the power management ecu coming from am2 fuse #1 & #7
it was showing 4volts and was expecting 12v
i have a few questions

what could be causing the low voltage? bad corroded wiring? faulty relay? any other reasons for the low voltage?
also is the "?" part circled the relay or a junction?

could a solution be to bypass am2 fuse and run a new line from fuse box to power the ecu with a new fuse? or find the bad wiring/relay?

 

sweet i had a feeling its a junction. im going to hardwire from fuse box to the two low voltage pins at the power mgmt ecu.

do i need to fully disconnect the two white wires from am2 fuse box to the power mgmt ecu before adding a bypass wire from fusebox to the two white wire ports (low voltage), or keep the existing wiring as is?

 

Final update
i was able to fix the problem
followed the diagnoses for b278c
checked the two power lines from am2 going to power mgmt ecu, both should be showing 12v but only showed 0.6v
wired up some wiring from fuse box to the two low points and everything works now! no more codes!
thanks to travis from reddit for providing the diagnoses documentation

 

someone with techstream access sent me the repair diagnostics for b278c pm your email and i send it to you
that faulty 12v wiring caused the u1133 code showing up

you should get the codes with techstream, it can read limited error codes without being in ready nor acc mode
there are hundreds of wires to check behind the glovebox connecting the 3-5 ecus, so it will be hard to diagnose without the code.