08 Prius No Start

What scantool are you using? A Gen2 Prius has 15-17 ecu's, how many ecu's respond (can talk to your scantool) on your car?

Do you have a copy of the service manual and wiring diagram?

Perhaps a place to begin would be to backprobe the AM1 and AM2 (battery power- pins 12&33) , ground (pin 6), and LIN1 (BEAN communication bus, MPX1 & MPX2, pins 7&24). Measure what voltages are present when the ignition power should be ON.

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Can you post screenshot of the Techstream health report (system scan?) Were the MPX1&2 at 11-12V? What about the ground pin?

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power train control module under glove box by ecu has its own power fuse under the hood, here is how i know

Here is my tranny horror story, it might help someone, same issue, wouldnt go into gear, eventually we were stranded.
I will cut the long long story short, after lots of messing around I came to the conclusion that the power train control module was bad, got one off ebay and was then told the dealer had to program it, then was told, no, turn the car on with a battery charger and leave it and it will program itself, and that worked, for a few days, then the problem returned. I went over the schematics and found that the main 12 volts for this module, which is mounted next to the engine ecu under the glove box, comes from a fuse under the hood, when i pulled that fuse it disintegrated into powder, fairfax county road salt destroyed the fuse. replaced it, no more shifting issues. car now has 300k on it still going.

 

that computer, in my case, had a RESTRICTIVE FLOW 12 volts and passed a 12 volt meter test but failed under load to due a decrepit fuse under the hood

 

is the 12.5 volts with a load on the battery?

 

have you load tested the battery?

 

Can you post a screenshot of the latest techstream health check results? You mention pulling codes from some ecu's or commanding windows up & down with Techstream- that requires some communication. Then you have recent posts about not having any communication with anything. Just trying to understanding the status right now. (Might help if you keep all updates in one thread instead of starting new ones- that's assuming everything is about one car).

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WOW. What great information. This is Similar to the fuse box issues in a P38A Range Rover. The Fuse box is located in the engine bay and the temps get wicked hot and wicked cool. The PCB inside the fuse box plastic housing cant handled the expansion and contraction after about 7 years. This causes HUGE amounts of chasing your tail trouble shooting the ECUs and the BECM module communications. Symptoms vary with the weather as temperature change causes expansion of PCB and hairline fractures occur in the electrical paths on the PCB leading to weird electrical behaviors. The solution is to buy a new $268 fuse box every 7 years and just replace it. I spent hours until I replaced mine. Best money I ever spent.

 

Here is another just GENERAL thingy I learned over the years with respect to powering some of these computers, I had an f350 and the tranny went out, it was throwing you in the backseat when it shifted, the dealer guy on the phone said, check the dome light, and I was like, this guy is an nice person, well the dome was out, I later found LOTS of car makers use such tactics when powering some weird computer like a POWER TRAIN CONTROL MODULE to make diagnosis fast and easy. No dome power no computer power, goes into fail safe, throws you in the backseat.
lol i didnt type "this guy is an nice person" it was change somehow, and thats funny, I said he was something else