P0A94 code DC to DC converter

Can anyone direct me within techstream where I can find the info from exclusive info 4?

 

I found it exclusive information 4. Thanks mine says -127

 

With P0A94 and INF 555, from the limited troubleshooting I've done, it looks like it could be:

1. replace w/converter inverter assy
2. replace hybrid vehicle generator assy
3. replace hybrid vehicle motor assy
or
4. replace hybrid vehicle control ECU.

Im attempting to continue to plug away at the diagnostics, but Im a bit discouraged. Is replacing the inverter something I can do as a diy? Is it worth it to buy a milliohmeter and a megger to verify the generator and motor assemblys.... Is it worth it to buy a used inverter?

 

I was sent a pdf of the troubleshooting tree for P0A94-555. The first step after looking up the trouble codes is to check for loose wires at the ECU (the wires and their plugs seemed ok to me.) The next step requires looking at the connections inside the inverter. (I didn't have rubber gloves, so Im going to get some ASAP, but didn't open the inverter yet.
After that the next step is to look up exclusive information 4, which I did and with a reading of -127 it indicates that I can eliminate replacing the transaxle and should go on with the testing.

The next 4 steps require rubber gloves, opening the inverter and both a milliohm meter and a megaohm meter to verify that the generator and the motor windings are good, and then whether the inverter, is good or not.

If all of these are good the final step is to replace the ECU.

Im daunted by needing to purchase gloves and the 2 meters. (after considering it further, the next morning, Im going to attempt to purchase these 3 items as cheaply as possible and continue to the testing.)

Im also concerned about the pricing of the options to fix this.....but i am seeing that people are replacing the inverter with some success with used inverters (any thoughts on this?)..... and I'm assuming that motor and generator windings are less likely to be the problem.....

So one other thought I have is to skip that step, get rubber gloves and do the tests that would show whether the inverter is bad or not. If I find a bad inverter I can go ahead and replace that and see if everything is working.

 

I found this by noodling around in techstream. Next time I hook it up, I'll try to write down where exactly I found it.

 

For the inverter cover has a single bolt that's a torx bolt or something. Is that right? I found a casual reference to it being a Torx T30. Can anyone confirm thats the tool I need?

 

I found exclusive info 4 by noodling around in techstream. In a previous post I was asked how I did it....
Once you are plugged into the OBD port and the car is on and the computer is on with Techstream on and ready to go, I chose the "connect to vehicle button". Once a connection was made I went to the system selection screen that shows all the different ECU's, I chose the hybrid control ECU. When that loaded I personally had only 1 row of error codes and I selected the P0A94 code that occurred on my car and pushed the snowflake button on the bottom right to get freeze frame data. When that opens up:

There is a row of buttons on the bottom left that include one called "data manager". If you hover over the buttons it says the name, I'm pretty sure it's 3 in from the left. Click data manager and it opens another screen that has a window that says "all data" in it and that little window has an "arrow down" button on it's right. If you click the down arrow you will see a number of other options: on mine there is one called "FFD & information 1" (or something close to that). When you select that you will be able to scroll down through all of the data options below it. (For me the INF code for my DTC code is 555 and the data options below in that list include one called 555-exclusive info 4.)

If you scroll down to select that line of data, you will see that there are some arrows to the right in that window and you can use them to put that data line on the left side of that window. (in other words select it in the window on the right, use arrows to move it to the window on the left).

Once you've done that there's an ok button on that window at the bottom (I think). Click it and it will display that single line of data in the original window.


That's how I did it.....not complicated at all....ha.

 

In attempting today to follow the troubleshooting guide, Im supposed to conduct an active test that puts the car in inverter stop mode. This wouldn't work. It tried but then said the car didn't meet the initial conditions. I found that it wasn't in park and then the bell was dinging when the door was open even with the key out.

I believe Im again having a 12v power issue. I replaced the other battery because it was old, but I have no way to charge the new one. Im thinking of a charge maintaining battery charger hooked up directly to the 12v battery. Anyone ever use something like this? Recommend something specific?


thanks

 

I found some advice on this from another thread, so no need to follow up on it. I'll be looking for a battery tender under 4amps.

 

I've got a battery tender and I charged it up, but I keep having it die in the middle of testing. I'm going to try again later and hopefully I can get it to work for a minute so I can take some readings inside the inverter and hopefully sort this out.

 

I did put a new 12v battery in. The car does not drive and does not go into ready, whether the 12v battery was charged or not.

What would I do to go back to basics?

 

I tested the fusible link in the fuse box with an ohmmeter. From under the red plastic cover to the bolt closer to the front of the car. So that doesn't seem blown to me.

I didn't know there was a fuse back by the battery. Any thoughts on how to test that. I guess I'll try to look up where it is and how to it take apart.


I'm trying to put the car into inverter stop with techstream. When I do it, the car must be in park. When the battery gets low it won't stay in park, so it won't stay in inverter stop, so I cannot check voltages inside the inverter to determine if it's the inverter or the HV ECU. It dies pretty fast and Im charging pretty slow so Im not getting anywhere.

 

I've charged this more and Im not getting anywhere. I have the issue where the dashboard lights occasionally don't turn on. Apparently there are various tricks used to get this to relight. I cannot get them to come on. I am stuck in the troubleshooting guide where I'm supposed to use techstream to put the car in the active test mode of forced inverter stop to take some readings that will tell me if the inverter is bad, or the h v ecu.

I could be wrong but I believe that Im not able to activate inverter stop because the dashboard won't light up, and so techstream feels that the initial conditions for inverter stop are not correct and won't go into that mode.

at this point the troubleshooting guide says it's either the hybrid vehicle motor, the hybrid vehicle generator, the inverter or the hybrid vehicle ecu. The only thing I've eliminated through testing is the transaxle...

Is there any other way to do these tests? Im thinking I need to take it into someone, but I wonder if they'll be able to do these tests when the dash doesn't work.