02 sensors..Denso, Bosch or NTK?

The Bosch or the Nippon denzo on nice products and you can get them reasonable if you shop around you don't have to buy fakes etc and that should do you. And you're following the other link of the guy that's done all this work and can't get to 0420 code to go away either That's the catalyst low threshold business so it looks like unless you buy a factory converter or it's equal looks like the lights there to stay I'm going to have my dash apart again I'm tempted to just make the check engine light go away I checked the car too often to worry about it so if I want to leave something silly plugged up that's an option but the check engine light glowing orange just because of a stupid code like this is piss poor I'm tending not to even believe if I get a factory converter and it doesn't turn it off I would be ripping pissed so because of the no mileage effect and all that to me it's not worth having to get worked up like that

 

I'm looking at the upstream a lot I'm always got the hood up it looks to me like you're going to get it from up top with the right socket I have I can't remember what size it is but it's the one with the slot in it for the wire and all that business you get that on there in a long extension and you'll be able to crack it loose I do believe I may try it today

 

I am sorry I should reiterate or should say you will need to move the inverter That's going to need to at least come forward and then the bracket that holds the suction line Mark l on the gray cap of your air conditioning system needs to come loose from under the inverter it's one bolt and you need to push it aside you don't have to bend it and then you can get your socket on two the O2 sensor and then you'll be able to plug your extension into that I believe and I'll use my half inch bar breaker bar just to make the initial turn and then run it out by hand or with my electric ratchet and then reverse to put it back in there's no way to do it without moving the inverter. I might could have done it when I had the catalytic converter out and unbolted from the manifold I think there might have been enough room to reach up then so it's either move the inverter or move the converter pick your poison to me it seems quicker to move the inverter. Good luck

 

Go with (genuine) Toyota or Denso (the supplier to Toyota for these sensors).

I would only buy from a "reputable" online source - dealer, rockauto, etc, or a brick and mortar dealer or large supplier.

Ebay and amazon could have counterfeit parts.

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I don't think I said you'd have to tear up any trim it looks like it'll be a long reach or you'll set the socket with your hand and use a 3/8 very long ratchet that'll stick down enough so you can wamp on it loosen the thing. Once it's loose you can probably reach your hand up there be a bit contorted and twist it out me it seems just to move four bolts and move the inverter aside I can even stretch the hoses that are on the inverter pump a little bit mine are a little longer anyway because of another reason so I don't even have to get under the car or pick it up in that case.

 

And I'm not sure about the wiper trim I take the wiper trim off all the time it seems like for some reason or another and I don't think there's any clips that break the wiper tray lays on top of the pieces that go back in the car and clips on. And the few clips and push through tight pins that are up there are all available from dorman and advance Auto for relatively cheap you certainly not replacing these every time you take this apart you might replace them every 10 years due to UV rays and heat or something along those lines both the two cars I drive the 13 and the '09 have new push pins and clips all around the plastic in the front it was just time and now they'll last until I'm probably bedridden for life or something.

 

That's correct it sits in a well or in a little hole that you have to have the correct socket with the slot in it for the wire and all that I had to buy one of those like 25 years ago now they're cheap as hell you can buy them for like $12 at any parts store they used to cost about a hundred bucks

 

30+ years of swinging a wrench has me convinced that there has to be SOME form of conspiracy between car designers and tool makers.

I've got a really big drawer packed full of specialty drivers. Allens (reg & metric, long & short, ball-end), torx: (reg, stubby, long, "security", torx+, torx+ "security", female driver sockets & wrenches), german 12 point (triple square), Toyota 12 point (double hex), 10 point, mor-torq, and probably a few I can't remember.

Thousands of dollars for a bunch of different tools that all "do the same thing".

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Geez, thx for the heads up. Looks like the tool to get is

OEMTOOLS Oxygen Sensor Crowfoot Wrench by OEMTOOLS at Fleet Farm

 

I'm not sure it's the upper one you want to space out and if you use a spark plug fowler be very careful they're made a cheap metal and they'll run red and they may break I had one break used as a spark plug fowler not as a spacer for an O2 sensor though but it caused a major problem when it messed up of course it wouldn't cause a major problem as an O2 sensor space or because the car will run even if it falls off and have a little noise but it'll run just fine I think it's only the lower one that needs to be spaced out and for that usually you use a 90° swivel and has a nut to stabilize it wherever you set the swivel so it sets the O2 sensor from going across the pipe like the water valve in the off position and turns the O2 sensor running with the pipe like the water's turned on and then you can swing the O2 sensor up and down from the floorboard of the car down towards the ground anywhere in there and lock it down with a locking nut. But as far as I know it's only the lower one and my little adapter that does this has a piece of the catalytic converter material in the lower portion of it so it has its own little catalytic converter for the O2 sensor spacer weird..