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Where to buy new OEM traction battery in/around NYC?

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Main Forum' started by 134HP Bard Womyn Magnet, Sep 5, 2022.

  1. PriusCamper

    PriusCamper Senior Member

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    There's plenty of YouTube videos. All your hybrid battery consists of is twenty-eight 8volt battery modules wired together in series to create 220v. Once the orange service plug is removed the wiring that connects all the modules is broken so there's no risk of high voltage.

    In general we teach to start out super cautious with thick rubber electrical gloves and then as you get more experience you can decide how much gear you need to protect yourself.
     
  2. 134HP Bard Womyn Magnet

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    When I got the Prius I actually watched loads of videos (including bus bar and battery changes) for...fun? Yes.
    I only got nervous about my luck (and frying myself) after saying my car was great and having it throw the code the next day...but yeah, I'll get some gloves to put my mind at ease. Handy to have.

    Anyway, thanks for the encouragement. It seems reasonable to try the bus bar maintenance for sure.

    @PriusCamper or anyone, still would love some feedback on the below when you have time:
    1) Is it safe to drive around the block in this state? (I only mean in terms of damage...I have AAA and free local towing if it shuts down!)
    2) Will I see voltage differential feedback if driving with the "Check Hybrid System" warning? I guess I (erroneously) thought the traction battery, regenerative braking etc. was taken out of the equation when in that state?

    Thanks all for the help so far.
     
  3. PriusCamper

    PriusCamper Senior Member

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    Yea... Sometimes when I'm working on a really bad battery pack and can't find the bad modules with all the tests, I just drive it around and screenshot and clear error codes so I have a whole bunch of info to look at next the I have the pack back on the bench. Just keep clearing the codes as you drive and as long as battery temps don't get super hot, it's perfectly safe.

    And electrons are weird things. I've had bad packs that will throw P0A80 multiple times a day for several days and then it will go weeks with none.

    For more data you can also use Toyota Techstream via Mini-VCI dongle or Hybrid assistant app, which has a companion app called Hybrid Reporter and it will provide you with 10 pages of charts and data even after just a two mile drive.
     
  4. Isaac Zachary

    Isaac Zachary Senior Member

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    I'm not @PriusCamper but the most I drove my Prius around was when it had a bad module. It did leave me stranded a few times, not just limp mode, but completely stopped and not go mode. But I disconnected the 12V, let it set a while, connected it again, and keep driving. I don't see how that would affect the rest of the battery, but then again, there's a reason it goes into limp mode.
     
  5. PriusCamper

    PriusCamper Senior Member

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    Limp mode is the best way to protect the hybrid system from someone who's desperate to keep driving... Four years ago on the first pack I worked on I used your 12v disconnection method and didn't have an OBD2 to monitor battery temps and got the pack so hot it melted the endcaps slightly and warped the modules. Fortunately no module tops blew off and only had to replace end caps and couple modules and other warped modules went flat again under normal operating conditions. But lesson learned: Don't let the pack get too hot!
     
  6. 134HP Bard Womyn Magnet

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    Interesting. Counter-intuitive (to me) because I thought clearing the codes would bring a bad battery (or other component) back into use and be riskier than it just relying on the IC engine 100% of the time. But I may be mixing up all the posts I read here in the past 24 hrs. For example, when the orange triangle came on, I was expecting the car to run rough but it stayed smooth as normal...basically drove the same as when I would have 2 bars of charge and be in a situation where the battery couldn't recharge with regenerative braking or coasting and the IC never shuts off. Indeed, if it weren't for the lights and the chime, I wouldn't have even known anything was amiss.

    I'll watch the temps. I think Dr. Prius gives a generic high heat warning which is at least idiot-resistant, if not idiot-proof.

    I'd love Techstream but I think I'd need to buy a laptop to run it and probably not understand half of it...if my Prius had 50k instead of 154k, maybe I'd feel more invested in getting it. For now I'll probably stick with Torque and Dr. Prius, sounds like those should give me at least some preliminary data to start troubleshooting.
     
    #26 134HP Bard Womyn Magnet, Sep 5, 2022
    Last edited: Sep 5, 2022
  7. Isaac Zachary

    Isaac Zachary Senior Member

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    Yes, clearing codes (manually or by disconnecting the 12V) brings the bad modules back to work. As @PriusCamper said, the main thing is the temps. A bad battery has a high resistance, high resistance turns current flow to heat. Hot batteries can be dangerous. But a lot depends on how you drive and how far you drive it.
     
  8. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    i wonder if prolong would work in your situation.

    also, give toyota corp a call and ask for some goodwill help. never hurts
     
  9. PriusCamper

    PriusCamper Senior Member

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    Yeah, it's only wise to keep clearing codes while you drive if your diagnosis has eliminated all the other options and you're just hunting for bad modules. You could create lots of problems for yourself if you kept clearing codes while driving if you didn't have the rest of the diagnosis done first. As in some problems can create other problems / waiting for a tow truck.

    But in your case I think you got plenty of time to figure this all out and you're working on it at the earliest stages and you're well informed so you might get lucky with just a clean up and reconditioning of the pack.
     
  10. 134HP Bard Womyn Magnet

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    I'm not intimidated by the DIY after watching a video, but I'm coming to the realization that my parking/shared driveway setup in NYC is gonna make working on the car a logistical nightmare. I'm thinking of a plan B (the "B" stands for @bisco) involving battery replacement IF Toyota agrees to do some goodwill out-of-warranty coverage...even if it costs me a little, I'd be happiest with a new battery.

    Toyota Corporate understandably said I must have a dealer do diagnostics first before starting the process. The only appointments that aren't a month away are across the river in New Jersey, so I'd need to drive a bit.
    So some questions:

    1) If I clear P0A80 using Dr. Prius, will the code remain in the code history? This is important, since I want the dealer's diagnostics to SHOW THE DAMN P0A80 CODE so Toyota can see it. I'd hate to clear it, drive to NJ, pay $175-200 for diagnostic and have them say "Car's fine, no codes, that'll be $175, have a nice day."
    2) Car drove fine with the warning on the dash, just stayed on IC mode with hybrid system never kicking in. Bearing that in mind, is it safest to just leave things as-is (with hybrid warning on dash and only IC mode) and drive to the dealer like that?

    I can always clear it after they do their diagnostic and drive home monitoring battery temp with Dr. Prius.
     
    #30 134HP Bard Womyn Magnet, Sep 6, 2022
    Last edited: Sep 6, 2022
  11. Isaac Zachary

    Isaac Zachary Senior Member

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    If it drives, I would just leave it like that with the code and warning dash light on.
     
  12. 134HP Bard Womyn Magnet

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    Thanks @Isaac Zachary, that's my instinct too - but any other votes for or against, let me hear 'em.

    EDIT: my Prius guy (sadly not local to me) concurs.
     
    #32 134HP Bard Womyn Magnet, Sep 6, 2022
    Last edited: Sep 6, 2022
  13. 134HP Bard Womyn Magnet

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    Update: I spent most of the day and $225 (tolls + $190 diagnostic) to get a diagnosis for Toyota Corporate, which I was told required for any goodwill contribution. Diagnosis: P0A80! Gee wow.

    Anyway, they didn't do jack shit for me. They're under no obligation, but as a serial Toyota owner, it's pretty infuriating. Onto the next plan.
     
  14. Isaac Zachary

    Isaac Zachary Senior Member

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    Never be loyal to any brand because no brand will ever be loyal to you.

    Buy what works best for you, and if something else comes along that's better and you're again in the market for it, then get that.
     
  15. 134HP Bard Womyn Magnet

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    Besides my Lamborghini, Toyotas have worked best; it wasn't loyalty, and all but one were used vehicles, but point taken.
    The suckers could have at least covered the damn diagnostic since I jumped through that hoop specifically for this.

    Oh well - it won't break me but I am just posting this here (and in the goodwill thread) so other Priuschatters gets overly optimistic about help from them. Mea culpa.
     
    Merkey and Isaac Zachary like this.
  16. 134HP Bard Womyn Magnet

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    Still considering options. When you get a battery from the dealer it's just a swap like this right?


    Looking at the part on Toyota.com, it looks like lots of stuff has to be swapped over from the old battery - guessing the fan, ECU, all the stuff by the cables - true? Great video where he shows battery taken out and new one going in, but didn't know what was was swapped from old pack to new on the bench before the reinstall.

    ALSO - my mechanic (who is not hybrid/EV expert) thought you had to "program" something to get the battery to work right. This video doesn't seem to make it look like that, and the creator comments that no programming must be done. But must one do anything special after the swap? (Also, I feel stupid even asking this, but do "permanent" codes follow the battery or the car? My P0A80 is registered as "permanent" in the diagnosis...logic suggests a new battery wouldn't register that same code, but want to make sure as a layperson I can clear it or expect it to clear.)

    Edit: just confirming part number b/c I'm an idiot (2014 Prius 5 with 7th and 8th VIN digit "DU")
    Part Number: G951076012
     
    #36 134HP Bard Womyn Magnet, Sep 9, 2022
    Last edited: Sep 9, 2022
  17. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    sorry to hear about the goodwill warranty refusal. there seems to be no rhyme or reason to toyotas decision making process.
    before you expend too much energy, call around. i hear batteries are unavailable at this time
     
  18. Paul E. Highway

    Paul E. Highway Active Member

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    My permanent P0A80 code cleared itself a couple weeks after installing my new battery. I could clear the temp code all I wanted but the permanent code stays until all the parameters it looks for have been met.

    Also, no programming, dealer or otherwise, was necessary.

    Cheers

    PEH
     
  19. DirkAshburn

    DirkAshburn Junior Member

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    Paul - if you don't mind me asking.
    • What mpg did you get before replacing it?
    • What mpg after?
    • Did you buy brand new or reconditioned?
    Thanks! Also - see you from Hawaii. I miss it so much, lived here 79-84 (Mililani).
     
  20. 134HP Bard Womyn Magnet

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    Thanks Paul, great info.

    If you installed it yourself, can you provide any insight on what you had to do that isn't in the "how to remove/replace" video? Looking at the part on Toyota.com, there's the area where the cells are, but then where the fan and all the wiring is, it looks much more empty than what they take out of the Prius. Do you have to transfer all that stuff to the new battery pack frame? And is it self-explanatory or difficult? EDIT: photos in next post, couldn't figure out how to attach here - maybe I shouldn't fix the battery. ;)

    I'm trying to eliminate as many variables as I can ahead of time b/c if I do it the DIY route it's likely gonna be outside in the parking lot next to where I pick up the battery!
     
    #40 134HP Bard Womyn Magnet, Sep 9, 2022
    Last edited: Sep 9, 2022