car won't start

The diagnostic trouble codes will be the car's way of telling you why those lights are on and what sort of problem(s) may exist.

Here is a thread comparing various available tools for reading the trouble codes:

Gen2 OBD2 app review | PriusChat

If you don't already have such a tool, it might be worth getting before the next time you have warning lights, but for this time, it might be most efficient to have a dealer retrieve them.

Some generic scan tools will not retrieve all of the trouble codes from the car. Those are kind of a waste of time to use: they end up leading people to miss the codes that really matter, or even to think they don't have any codes.

Many auto parts stores will have scan tools and will read codes for you. However, many of them have the generic tools that won't show all the codes, and are a waste of time to use.

The trouble codes behind the ((!)), ABS, and VSC lights can be retrieved without any scan tool at all, just by using a short piece of skinny wire as a jumper between the Tc and CG terminals at the car's diagnostic port, turning the car ON, and counting the blinks of those lights. Searching in this forum will find many threads with the details on how to do that.

 

The first thing I would do if I couldn't get to a diagnostic scanner in my toolbox or something right now as I would still turn the car back on and get out and touch the inverter pump and see if it's running or attempting to run or move the plug and see if it all of a sudden starts to hum and pump you can also unscrew the pink colored jug generally next to the inverter and if you hear the pump usually unscrewing the jug you'll see water moving but sometimes it's so faint it's hard to see that's why I like to put my hand on the pump and see if it's actually spinning it'll be humming sounding and feeling like something's turning or vibrating generally it's not loud that's why you kind of want to put your hand on it because unless you're well versed and really paying attention and all of these other factors this can go right by. If you don't feel that inverter pump vibrating what have you that is probably your main issue usually when that MFD multifunction display shows the red car usually the inverter pump is messing up I've never seen the red car for anything else so far even when my battery was failing and I had all the lights in the ambers on just like you have now. And the car was red and the MFD that's always my inverter pump not working I've been through three since I've had the car about 2 years and I came up with a solution to probably not have to replace it again but that's another whole story. I would say start with checking your inverter pump just a quick check but the car on get out lift the hood if you don't know where the inverter pump is look in your manual or looking this forum list for a picture of the front end of the car and a drawing of where the pump is it'll show you all the components under the hood is generally under the right forward edge of the inverter standing in front of the car looking down at the inverter which is the thing that says hybrid synergy drive on top of it or something along those lines has a silver cover it's on the right side of the engine bay basically ahead of the driver so when you're standing in front of the car it's on the right side of the bay you want to look at the right corner of that silver lid and then look straight down you'll see some black hoses and the pancake looking plastic thing with a plug and a wire connected to it that's your inverter pump. With the car on or attempting to be on that inverter pump should be trying to come on if it's not doing anything. Lift the fuse box cover and look at the AM2 fuse I think it is Make sure it's good Make sure you measure power across both sides of the fuse while it's installed if all that's happening you should have power going to the plug of the inverter pump and the pump's not running generally means it's probably bad it is a common replacement part Good luck

 

Were any of those warning lights on prior to this problem? Would be very odd for an ICWP to cause a TPMS light, among others....

but, this:

master warning VSC and brake. car was driving normally. when I turned car off and tried to turn back on it would not start and I now have more lights on

sounds typical for a P0AA6. Only getting the codes read will tell the tale...

 

Yup. best to feel the pump in READY mode and see if it is running. Look for coolant moving in the reservoir.....start there. If it is toast. I would highly recommend an OEM Pump. $178 last time I checked at olathe toyota. install videos on you tube. definitely remove the drivers headlight to make life easier.

 

I don't think he can get to ready which is part of the problem or at least buyers display it doesn't look like he can get to ready. And that would be a hold up to the inverter pump so then in reality is hybrid battery is probably screwing up or has a leak or is one of these things that go on with this code given the batteries over a decade old probably.

 

The Gen 2 inverter cooling pump runs in IG-ON, so it isn't hard to check, even if the car won't go to READY.

You can easily get the codes from the brake system, anyway, using the jumper wire as described in post #2. Because that's fast and easy and will tell you something, it's usually worth doing if you don't have a good scan tool handy.

On the other hand, in this case, you might possibly get only VSC 51 (C1310) and ((!)) 58 (C1259), which only mean the real issue is identified by the hybrid system codes, which the jumper wire method won't show you; a scan tool is needed for those.

 

none of these lights were on the last time i drove the car.

Then you have some type of electrical issue going on, because a TPMS light has nothing to do with any hybrid code, engine code, pump failure, etc.

 

There could also be a legit tire pressure issue that got detected around the same time. Those kinds of coincidences do happen.

 

If you search the Technical Discussion forum here for June or July this year for "Techstream and VM" you should find a thread about downloading a virtual machine image file that has Techstream installed. Install Virtualbox on almost any laptop then run the image (you'll need to get a mini-VCI cable).
Then you have Techstream.

Or look at the sticky thread at the top of the Technical discussion forum about reviews of diagnostic apps and OBD2 adapters.

Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.

 

Before I bought a dealer tech stream computer I had an Inova handheld 3 series I think and it could read ABS codes and most all of the general Prius codes and a Gen 2 that I needed to read honestly it did pretty good and then my ex who has a 2010 uses a doctor Prius app and the $14 Bluetooth dongle thingy in the OBD2 port and it reads her battery and codes and everything pretty good for her she's on some Prius chat not this one I think or she just lurks but she's had good luck with that setup I bought it I just don't don't remember which dongle I bought but it wasn't expensive and it reads codes well enough to do everything that we've had to do on her 2010 and my Inova did pretty much everything well on my generation two. And then I got a really good deal on the dealer Panasonic toughbook loaded up so I bought it

 

It wouldn't. A tire pressure issue would only give you the tire pressure light.

But all of the other lights could be explained by pretty much any one of the couple hundred possible hybrid system issues. When there is a hybrid system issue that lights the master warning light, you also get the lights from the brake/skid system, because it gets notified of the hybrid code.

So it's possible two separate issues exist with this car: one of the possible hybrid system issues, responsible for all of the lights except the tire light, and some tire issue, responsible for the tire light.

Sometimes people think themselves into knots trying to come up with exactly one cause explaining everything, as if they literally think coincidences never happen.

 

So the impeller should be moving water in the jug right next to the inverter needs to be full up to the full line

 

those are overpriced scanners, there are cheaper alternatives that can do the same job. In my opinion Foxwell is better than the one you've posted, it's just that you have an expensive scanner tied to Toyota models only. Based on my experience Xtool A30D and Autel MaxIAP can do the job at a fraction of the cost. I haven't use techstream for a long time because my old laptop is such a hassle to use (battery no longer holds a charge and the operation system is painfully slow) compared to these dongle where it just uses your phone an very portable. Both of them offer downloadable licenses for different makes (not just Toyota) I just switch to Xtool since the licenses are free and Autel charges $21 for each make.

Dr Prius has a fancy way of displaying voltages but it's not that great at retrieving codes since this is HV specific. Torque Pro is also a good alternative if you have an android phone and a $30 dongle (don't buy the cheap or expensive dongles)

 

This is why I sometimes absolutely HATE trying to help over the internet.

I asked in POST 4: Were any of those warning lights on prior to this problem? Would be very odd for an ICWP to cause a TPMS light, among others...

OP replied in POST 7: none of these lights were on the last time i drove the car.

I replied in POST 9: Then you have some type of electrical issue going on, because a TPMS light has nothing to do with any hybrid code, engine code, pump failure, etc.

OP states in POST 11: why would tire pressure throw up all these service lights? i do have a tire pressure sensor that is bad. that light has been on for a long time.

It's hard enough trying to help without being there. An inaccurate answer easily leads to a lot of wasted time going down the wrong path. It can be like peeing in the wind. Good luck, no more peeing for me....feel free to read the second part of post 4. It's likely your answer, since it's the ONLY code that will prevent the car from going back to READY/starting once you turn it off.