Anti skid, ABS, “Brake” ((!)) (brake warning) lights are on

You're on the right track. Those terminals aren't on the ECU, so you don't need to know where that is. The terminals are on the car's diagnostic port, facing down at the driver's knees under the dash. Terminal 4 is also called CG and 13 is alled Tc. If you keep searching this forum on those search terms, you're bound to find posts with the connector illustrated and the right terminals shown, and that explain how to count off the two-digit codes that blink on the dash warning lights when you turn the car ON with the terminals jumped.

There are a couple hundred, so just listing them all out isn't very practical; it's much more helpful to get your own trouble codes and post them here and then ask "so, what do these mean?".

If that's the issue, the trouble code will tell you, and even tell you which wheel.

 

Try an Innova branded scanner w an ABS button . It'll pull most of the ABS codes out for you and get you to what you need to be seeing pretty quick at least mine does and it's cheap came from advance Auto was like 39 or $49 and believe it or not it reads a lot more than I would have ever expected

 

Might be random but my abs light came on when my rear tail light wire was loose and the light was not working correctly from removing the tail light with it plugged in. The connection on the rear tail light (not the harness connection but on the harness where the two wires attach at the light for the led brake light) affected my abs sensors and plugging it back in properly fixed the issue.The plug slides out of a little slot and there’s a connection under there where two wires attach.

 

Looks like it matches the pictures you'd find in those other threads, so that looks ok.



There's some terminology that's kind of standard about having the car OFF, ACC, ON, or READY, and you probably want to have those straight just as a general rule, even outside of getting your diagnostics. Older cars would have keys you could turn from OFF to ACC or ON or START, and it's about the same deal. You do not have to START (or READY) the car to read codes. ON is fine. ON is two pushes without the brake.

 

You can find them explained in this post here. That car also had a tire pressure code in the mix, so just disregard that one. The others are the same you've got.

 

Very expensive . Gen3 that is a lot of miles unless in extreme good condition or very great trim level. I doubt I would. Walk right over to my Gen2 till I figure what to do .

 

The JDM engine stores have these brake parts for Gen 3's generally in stock like 150 bucks for each piece or something like that I checked into it when I bought my engine and transmission The guy said there was no problem and they could probably get something for the gen 2 also . Just call any of their stores and they'll tell you what to have and they'll give you some kind of warranty too you put it on and it doesn't work they'll send you another one something they're pretty easy to deal with

 

Every 3-4 seconds even if you're not pressing the brake pedal? Every 3-4 hours would be more like it, for a decent working actuator.

 

I think there is a toyotapartsdeal.com that's legit. I haven't heard of toyotadealparts.com though, couldn't vouch for that. Or were you meaning toyotapartsdeal?

I don't think the choice of laptop is critical. I have a clunky old Thinkpad here that came from some university's salvage outlet for cheap. It's too big and heavy and the lid hinges flop. (That seems to be a common thing for these old Thinkpads; there are threads about replacing the hinges but it's a pain.) My one upgrade was to swap the old spinning drive for an SSD.

The upper part, the actuator, has most of the moving parts in it, and it's a lot easier to get to and replace. So you could take the strategy of replacing that first to see what happens.

At 3 to 4 seconds a cycle, I would think a mechanics' stethoscope could give you a clear hissing sound from one part or the other. (I mean, they're connected by steel tubes and fluid, so the sound will be conducted, but should be louder wherever it's coming from.) But not everyone has reported a clear verdict from that.

Of course, at 3 to 4 seconds a cycle, the lower part (the pump/accumulator) has also had five years of its life worn off for every month it's been running like that, so there might be some wisdom in replacing it too.

 

The device itself is enough. The flash adapters are used if you want to reprogram firmware in certain computers of certain cars, and the adapters are specific to the cars. If you look closely, there might not even be one for a Toyota even if you wanted it.

In a Gen 3, if the pump fails, it can't replenish the accumulator. If it fails when the accumulator has just been pumped up to full pressure, you may have a couple dozen strokes left of power-assisted, four-wheel braking. When the stored pressure poops out, all you have left is non-power-assisted braking of the front wheels only. You will have to step very hard on the pedal and the car will be difficult to stop. When the alarm starts beeping, the pressure is already pretty close to pooped out.