New guy with a couple of questions

Well when you dig in with your polisher the stuff that you put on the paint or the pad has to be able to dig into the oxidation to remove it and if the oxidation is already down to almost the primer not a lot to happen you may want a DA sand it mask it and paint it but then you need the proper paint and all that because that thing sits in the Sun looking up at the Sun 24/7 365 unless you're one of the lucky ones to have a garage and if you do I doubt an old Prius is going in the garage You're $40,000 truck is sitting in there I'm sure or something along those lines. TPMS sensors are made by a company called Pacific you can buy them brand new on eBay or Amazon for $39 for a set of four with new batteries and ready to just push a button on your Prius when they're all installed and everything will work or you can do the DIY and dig them all out of your wheels and dig all the rubber and silicone out and try to replace the batteries and fiddle fart around like that if your time is that inexpensive . I usually opt for the $39 route

 

Good time to get on the EGR and intake manifold cleaning. See first couple of links in my signature.

 

Good for you!
The pressure monitors have a watch battery. You can't really replace the battery.
You have to replace the whole sensor. You'll need Techstream or something similar to
deactivate the bad ones and activate the new ones.

I don't beleave anyone has come up with a way to paint the spoiler to make it like it originaly was.

If you ahve the service records check to see if the previous owner did the 100,000 miles service.
Trans and converter fluid change, spark plugs are the main things.

But you also want to clean the EGR cooler, intake manifold, and all related parts.
All things you can do if you have some tools and some mechanical abilities.

Search Prius Chat for all the info.

 

What "converter"?

 

They make a spray can epoxy type clear coat that has a valve on the bottom to mix the materials inside of the can before you spray it on. In my research this is the highest quality DIY clear coat you can get it you don't have a high power air compressor & spray booth. The other option is to DIY a vinyl wrap. Both require the sanding down of the clear coat so there's no more edges from where it was peeling off because those edges will be visible when you're done if you don't get rid of them.

You'd be wise to remove the spoiler to do this project. And if you aren't feeling very DIY you could take the wing to an auto shop and pay them. Price are much cheaper if they don't have to deal with the whole car. But I've never got price quotes for that, so if you do, please share them here!

 

If I bring my spoiler to Sam's Auto body on main Street in Durham North Carolina and I've already sanded it and maybe spray primered it and possibly fine sanded it and bring him that he will have several types of black paint on hand and he will probably shoot it for me for 50 bucks or a smoke in 30 bucks or whatever and it'll look dang nice too He's a great guy and I won't push him for time I'll just leave it with him and tell him that black right there when you get a second whatever and pick it up the next day in the evening or something along those lines I have an extra one off so I would just take that one and bring it back home wrapped up and when I get time stick it on the car that needs to have the painted one they're kind of a pain in the rump to take on and off and if you're not careful things can break and then they flop and make noise the rest of their lives

 

You could post to IMGUR or IMGBB and post the link here.

Also, if you find the EGR cleaning too daunting for DIY I highly recommend HybridPit in Buena Park. Good guys who do great work on Prius.

 

Cruise control brake pedal switch issue . No cruise.

 

There sure is:

Toyota Service Information and Where To Find It | PriusChat

The brake light switch is a pushbutton switch located up near the pivot of the brake pedal. The brake pedal, when released, pushes in on the button. When you push the pedal down, it releases the button.

It is really two switches: one that is open when the button is pushed (pedal is up, you're not braking) and closes when you brake. That one is used to light the brake lights for following drivers. The other switch works the opposite way; it's closed when the button is pushed (pedal up, not braking) and opens when you brake. That's the one that cancels cruise when you brake.

It turns out both of them are wired back to the Power Management Control ECU. The one that controls the brake lights connects to the ECU terminal STP, and the one that controls cruise connects to the terminal ST1-.

Naturally, because those switches work opposite ways, those two inputs should never both be with 12 V or without 12 V at the same time. One should always be with when the other's without.

If the ECU ever sees them both without at the same time, it sets this code. The cruise control can still operate normally, because it can fall back to letting you set cruise when both terminals are without 12 V, and use 12 V seen on STP as the condition to cancel. But this code tells you the normal redundancy of those brake switch circuits has been compromised.

There are six pages of troubleshooting steps for this code in the repair manual.

 

.Inverter coolant, on the drivers side of the engine

 

Should be the same way you'd check any other switch.

Sometimes people get the idea that a certain trouble code means to replace a certain part, like whatever part is named in the code's fortune cookie. That's generally an idea to stay away from, because a trouble code only tells you certain things an ECU in the car detected, and the ECU can't crawl out of its box to find out what's really at fault. It's a better idea to start by boning up on what the ECU detected, and then make some tests on your own to find out why, and then you know what to fix.

But in this case, if you want to just replace that switch because the fortune cookie mentions it, probably it's not a very expensive part. You just won't find it listed by that exact name.

You see, trouble codes fall into categories depending on who gets to define them:



P1 codes are "manufacturer defined", so if Toyota makes up a P1 code, they can give it whatever description and fortune cookie they want, because it's all up to them. But if they use P0571, or any P0 code, they are stuck with whatever the SAE decided should be the standard fortune cookie for that code, and the SAE names are generic enough to mean roughly the same thing in any manufacturer's car. So if it has a fortune cookie like "cruise control/brake switch A", that's generic lingo, and you just have to go look up Toyota's parts and see that it's simply called


2010 Toyota Prius Brake Light Switch - 8434069075 - Genuine Toyota Part

 

So if you're turning the cruise off with the brake pedal and reactivating it with the switch on the steering wheel and it speeds up and slows down with the movement of the lever properly more than likely your switch is not bad The switch just moves voltage or it doesn't for a given function I guess the first one is for the brake lights in the back and the second one is for the cruise or something along those lines but if your crews works perfectly as you said and it turns off with the brake pedal like always then I would be looking for some other problem then that switch it seems like electrical parts generally are non-returnable I would swipe one off another car at LKQ or something before I just bought another one personally.