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p0031 and p1150 - Bank 2 Sensor 1? Or Coolant Clog?

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Technical Discussion' started by PrayForMyPrius, Jan 18, 2023.

  1. PrayForMyPrius

    PrayForMyPrius Junior Member

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    Hi everyone! Hope ya'll can help me get to the bottom of this before I go crazy, I THINK I'm on the right track.

    I'm unsure if I have two separate issues going on that just happened together, or compounded each other.

    First, I replaced the ICE with a junkyard one after getting really bad knocking. Original had 230k miles, replacement ~180k. Seemed all good for a week or two.

    Only error I'd get was the red triangle with "coolant temp" logo , occasionally, and it went away and drove fine. My buddy said "maybe still some air bubbles in the coolant" - we tried to run it with the cap off for a while, didn't seem to help. I see now recommendations to run the pump only using a multimeter on the , and fill it from the cap while doing so. This video is what I planned to do next:


    However, I suddenly started getting bad bad shaking and misfiring, and pulled error codes for all the spark plugs, p0031 and p1150 - idles VERY rough, and changes dramatically when I shift between Drive, Park, Reverse, and Neutral, getting better and worse in different gears. (So i'm thinking sensors and wiring etc)

    I replaced all the spark plugs and the O2 sensor on the catalytic converter. (Bank 1 sensor 1) (p0031)

    This didn't seem to help at all. (though I'm sure they all needed a replacing anyway)

    However, I'm seeing two different explanations for p1150:

    "Bank 2 Sensor 1" - and COOLANT PATH CLOG UP FOR COOLANT HEAT STORAGE SYSTEM


    Could the air bubbles be causing such bad misfiring after all?

    I've seen people suggest to fill the coolant in the reservoir up front, but others say ONLY under the pressure cap?

    And I was under the impression that the prius gen 2 only has a Bank 1 Sensor 1 (downstream on the side of catalytic converter) and Bank 1 Sensor 2 (upstream on the right side of engine)

    Could code p1150 be referring to the upstream sensor, on the side of the engine? I replaced one, might as well the other? (it's just a bit more annoying to get to it looks like)

    My next plan was to :

    -Check the catalytic converter system again for cracks and holes (i'll feel silly if there's just a big hole I'm missing that is causing this

    -Run the pump to try to clear air bubbles

    -replace upstream sensor if those don't work?
    found this video on it:

    basically have to remove a few things around the engine and go in beside it, not the worst....
    this was my downstream sensor next to the catalytic converter:
    https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/DEN2344623?impressionRank=2
    is this the correct upstream one? why so much more expensive?
    https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/DEN2349056?impressionRank=3

    Any other obvious things I'm missing?
     
  2. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    You're right. Here's a post you can review for the reason you you get zany results if you just do a general search for a P1xxx code (since P1 codes are allowed to mean completely different things in different makes and models of car, and Google will helpfully find all of those meanings for you), and what you can do to avoid that and get solid information that's right for a Prius. Or this one.
     
  3. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    Just dump the heat shield .
     
  4. PrayForMyPrius

    PrayForMyPrius Junior Member

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    Ok, so according to this doc about the p1150 codes on the prius gen 2 :
    https://share.qclt.com/%E4%B8%B0%E7%94%B0%E6%99%AE%E7%91%9E%E6%96%AF%E5%8E%9F%E5%8E%82%E8%8B%B1%E6%96%87%E6%89%8B%E5%86%8Cpdf%E6%A0%BC%E5%BC%8F/repair%20manual/04pruisr/05/2054m/cip1150a.pdf

    CHS tank outlet temperature sensor
    Water valve (Coolant flow control valve)
    Cooling system (clogging)
    ECM

    Coolant path clog / air bubbles is most likely cause? I'll try to check the sensors too... that would explain it happenin suddenly?

    The CHS tank is the thermos that holds hot coolant, is there an easy way to test the sensor?

    The valve I assume is fine...

    And the ECM is like the computer module? Bad news I assume if that's it? Any easy way to test?


    P0136 is the code for the upstream sensor correct? I should be safe not changing it?

    I don't know what this means.
     
  5. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    I'd recommend following the troubleshooting steps as they are laid out in the PDF you linked.

    It helps to start with a long look at the diagram and description on the first page of how the system works, and the "detection condition" box at the bottom of that page, going back to the diagram and description as needed until you are sure why the detection conditions are what they are.

    At that point, you understand what makes the ECM set that code when it does, and that's your foundation for understanding what each of the following test steps is telling you.
     
  6. mr_guy_mann

    mr_guy_mann Senior Member

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    If you have problems with the upstream A/F sensor or wiring (the one on the exhaust manifold, not the one on the side of the cat)- that can cause engine misfire.

    If the engine was (severely) overheated and damaged the head gasket- that can cause engine misfire.

    Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
     
  7. PrayForMyPrius

    PrayForMyPrius Junior Member

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    Shoot so even without the p0136 code it could be the upstream sensor? Was hoping to not change that one too, but I'm running out of options, and didn't want to take it to the Toyota dealership...

    How do you check the head gasket?
     
    #7 PrayForMyPrius, Jan 21, 2023
    Last edited: Jan 21, 2023
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  8. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    google: leakdown test

    watch
     
  9. PrayForMyPrius

    PrayForMyPrius Junior Member

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    Thanks ok I'll take a look at that...

    I think I've isolated it (finally) though:

    I tried to jump the water pump using a multimeter like shown here:


    However, I'm not getting anything from the pump, while confirming it's "connected" by hearing the beep on my multimeter... Unless I'm doing something wrong, I've got a broken water pump. I tried it with the car off and with the car "almost on" (two button presses with no brake pedal) and can't get it to go.

    Double checking my multimeter settings, but if it's connected (and I hear the beep) then it should be going, correct?
     
  10. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    Looksikw it from video but this is coolant tank pump . Not the regular water pump . I'm not sure that electric pump not working would cause your car to overheat her anything like that it might hurt your heating performance or something but I don't think would mess up the running of the vehicle.
     
  11. PrayForMyPrius

    PrayForMyPrius Junior Member

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    Hmmm ok I was wrong after all and have the water pump running now... it's sucking A LOT of coolant in, and I know I'm supposed to bleed it after too.... Crossing my fingers either this or another inspection of the exhaust system for holes will fix it...

    Bad bad misfires and shaking, but since it's always changing sounds between Neutral, Park, Reverse, etc, it's GOT to be a fuel/air mixture somewhere, right? I was thinking for some reason the coolant could be involved? (not getting the right reading from the sensors because of it?)
     
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  12. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    Just let the electric pump suck the cooling in You keep adding the crap as it sucks it up when the pump changes sounds that the impeller is full and submersed in water completely in no air then you just watch your funnel and as soon as that last little bit goes in there you go then if your car was running right or whatever you'd go for a drive and get it temperature. And then fix any level drops if it goes down any more top it off and that should be it You shouldn't have to do much more bleeding or anything than that that electric pump is doing that for you for the most part.
     
  13. SFO

    SFO Senior Member

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    Which OBD2 reader are you using to retrieve those DTCs ? (you may need techstream, or a quality OBD2 device to help diagnose this)

    Just in case someone else needs the workup for DTC P0031 : https://share.qclt.com/%E4%B8%B0%E7%94%B0%E6%99%AE%E7%91%9E%E6%96%AF%E5%8E%9F%E5%8E%82%E8%8B%B1%E6%96%87%E6%89%8B%E5%86%8Cpdf%E6%A0%BC%E5%BC%8F/Repair%20Manual/04pruisr/05/2054m/cip0031.pdf
    Upstream A/F sensors don't last forever (and 230k is up there), did you replace it with a Denso or an OEM from the dealership?

    Here is the workup for DTC P0136, P0137, P0138 : https://share.qclt.com/%E4%B8%B0%E7%94%B0%E6%99%AE%E7%91%9E%E6%96%AF%E5%8E%9F%E5%8E%82%E8%8B%B1%E6%96%87%E6%89%8B%E5%86%8CPDF%E6%A0%BC%E5%BC%8F/Prius%20Service%20Manuals%202004/%E4%BF%AE%E7%90%86%E6%89%8B%E5%86%8C/04pruisr/05/2054m/cip0136.pdf

    Regarding the water valve, it is possibly to switch the hoses around, and has happened before.
     
  14. PrayForMyPrius

    PrayForMyPrius Junior Member

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    Yeah so damn, I keep putting it in and it keeps sucking it somewhere... Maybe I just need even more coolant.

    Question however: While I'm jumping the electric pump, I DO NOT see the coolant in the Inverter Coolant System Resevoir moving or bubbling at all (the one next to the electric motor). Is that ok? Does this electric pump only do the other system?

    Is there a way to jump THAT system? Because when I get the car started, I can't tell if that's working (i'm getting such shaking from the bad air/gas mixture, but I don't think it's 'bubbling' in there like it should) Is that a different pump, and could that be leading to my air/gas mixture being off so bad?

    I was getting the p0031 code, which is the downstream (next to the catalytic converter)? I changed that, but maybe there's a way to check if it's getting the right power? Checked fuses and such, and see this listed on that doc:

    Open or short in heater circuit of A/F sensor A/F sensor heater EFI M relay (integration relay) ECM

    I see directions to check the voltage of the sensor while the car is on, but I'm running so rough and blowing such exhaust, I don't want to do that. The ECM module I hope is not the problem, but don't know how to check it. The A/F sensor heater is built into the sensor, yes? So I changed the sensor entirely, should be fine.

    >>>
    Here is the workup for DTC P0136, P0137, P0138 : https://share.qclt.com/%E4%B8%B0%E7%94%B0%E6%99%AE%E7%91%9E%E6%96%AF%E5%8E%9F%E5%8E%82%E8%8B%B1%E6%96%87%E6%89%8B%E5%86%8CPDF%E6%A0%BC%E5%BC%8F/Prius%20Service%20Manuals%202004/%E4%BF%AE%E7%90%86%E6%89%8B%E5%86%8C/04pruisr/05/2054m/cip0136.pdf

    I used the code reader at autozone, but now I'm back home it's running even worse, don't want to risk going out there. Had a cheap bluetooth one, can't find it!

    >>
    Regarding the water valve, it is possibly to switch the hoses around, and has happened before.

    Now that's interesting, meaning when I put the engine back in, i could've hooked a hose up wrong? Could you explain what you mean?
     
  15. PrayForMyPrius

    PrayForMyPrius Junior Member

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    Also the other code was p1150, which shows this: https://share.qclt.com/%E4%B8%B0%E7%94%B0%E6%99%AE%E7%91%9E%E6%96%AF%E5%8E%9F%E5%8E%82%E8%8B%B1%E6%96%87%E6%89%8B%E5%86%8Cpdf%E6%A0%BC%E5%BC%8F/repair%20manual/04pruisr/05/2054m/cip1150a.pdf

    CHS tank outlet temperature sensor
    Water valve (Coolant flow control valve)
    Cooling system (clogging)
    ECM

    so unfortunately also the ECM is listed there, hope that's not the problem.... not sure how to check the CHS tank sensor? And the water valve would be a literal clog? Got just a few more things to try before finally admitting defeat and going to Toyota..... It's an old one though, so not sure what they'll say.
     
  16. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    You're on the right track, asking these questions about how you proceed to figure out which of the things 'listed' for the DTC should really get the blame. You can probably save a bundle doing that troubleshooting yourself over having Toyota do it.

    Beyond just the list of possible trouble areas, the PDF from the manual contains a lot of the information to help you with the next troubleshooting steps. If you are just kind of skimming it for bullet points, it will reward you for spending a little more time. What I said in post #5 is still probably the best advice I can give.
     
  17. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    Have you had plugs out? You check them for micro water drops on the insulation the insulator the white part or what should have been white now probably gray. Smell the plugs do you smell cooling That's the sure way to have a good idea that cooling is getting in your combustion chamber. Be surprised how often that really quickly ends the discussion.
     
  18. PrayForMyPrius

    PrayForMyPrius Junior Member

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    Ok I really hope I didn't **** something up here, but I think I put the wrong coolant in?

    When I changed the engine, I think we left the original inverter coolant alone, and I don't think it's had to be filled at all (though I assume we'd lose some from the radiator? But maybe we had it plugged well enough when we put it back on, and the inverter coolant system stays internal, so it's good)

    HOWEVER, when I refilled the other side (which just seems to keep sucking coolant in!) I used orange "havoline extended life dex cool" - like this https://www.santmyer.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/Havoline-Xtended-Life-Dex-Cool-Antifreeze-Coolant-Concentrate_1-Gal.png

    and now doing some searches about it is getting me scared. I was driving a few weeks before the bad misfires, and I think it was also low because I didn't realize how much it sucked in. Could the coolant be the culprit? Worth draining and getting the right stuff? Or should I keep filling it until it can't take more?
     
  19. PrayForMyPrius

    PrayForMyPrius Junior Member

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    Yeah I changed the spark plugs when I got the misfires, then the downstream sensor. Or do you mean the cap on top of the spark plugs, those big gray tubes with the electrics (whatever those are called)? I'll check for coolant smell, essentially the head gasket leaks and lets coolant in, it burns rough and misfires?
     
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  20. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    coolant can't effect anything that fast. eventually, i'd change it to toyota