Did I screw up the inverter bleeding?

Nope close all that up put the bleeding thing back where it hangs or if you didn't move it just close it put the little rubber cap back on. Look at the jug Is it on the full mark You probably don't have anything to do ready the car with the hood up and now get out of the driver seat look at the jug. Again is it full? If it is you need to do nothing You're ready to go The pump will pump the air all around the loop and back up into the jug generally speaking what I usually do after I change the inverter pump I don't touch the bleed anything I just overfill the jug just a little bit like almost to the filler neck start the vehicle ready the vehicle I even hear the pump pumping real fast and then all of a sudden you hear the pump slow down pretty drastically as the air bubble is passing through and pure coolant hits the impellers and then you look in the jug you see it suck it down right near the full mark and then everything is finished If it pulls a little bit below now's a good time to top it off while it's running and pumping then you see it steadily holding the full line. And you leave it alone

 

No and no.

A good example of the some of the rubbish on youtube.

If you are now holding at the "Full" line in the reservoir, button it up and you're done.

Check the level of the reservoir in a weeks time and top up if needed.

 

You're not getting flow because the pump is air bound. Try squeezing the hoses a few times to make the coolant move a bit. This has worked for me every time.

The bleeder sometimes needs to be opened more to get good flow/venting. Once all the air bubbles are out, you will have a solid stream of coolant passing through the tube and into the reservoir. Sometimes the bleeder needs to be loosened so much that a little coolant leaks from around the threads, so I always pack some rags or paper towels around the bottom of it.

 

I took the bleeders completely out one time, and put them back with some non-setting Hylomar blue stuff on the threads, never that problem again.

That was on a Gen 1, where it matters even more, because Gen 1 has two bleeders and one's on the suction side of the pump, where if the threads aren't sealed there'll be air going in.

 

The hose that connects to the vertical port in the center of the pump (pointing upwards) is the suction hose. Have you tried sqeezing and releasing this hose several times while the pump is running?

If you used clamps to pinch off the hoses, did you remove them?

 

Can you see the fluid visibly moving when you shine a flashlight into the reservoir?

 

Pity we're up to 4+ threads over the same problem. Doubtful if you currently have a viable electrical connection to the pump :

Though no one would know that, because it is hidden in another thread. Try to use a single thread until the original issue is resolved, then leave a final post with the resolution, be it good or bad, that way others can learn from the thread or at least be able to follow along and help.

Before starting yet another thread, confirm that the "new pump" is actually working; see if you can sense a vibration by touching it with a finger, stick, rod, pencil, or as mentioned above, look for surface movement on the coolant surface. The coolant movement may not look like a rolling boil, and could be more like a subtle shimmer on the liquid surface.

 

With either mode, the inverter pump will be running but it is better to do this observation in IG-ON (two presses of the power button with your foot OFF the brake pedal) so that you do not have the engine running. That way you will not have to decide whether what you observe is vibration from the engine and be sure that the fluid movement is from it flowing.