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No Power or Dash Lights on 2005

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by dcwenger, Jan 28, 2023.

  1. dcwenger

    dcwenger Junior Member

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    That sounds good. It looks like I can order that at my local O'Reilly.

    I do appreciate all the info everyone has provided, but too much information (for me) makes my head spin. I hope I didn't sound ungrateful, as I definitely am and I'm glad to have the help from everyone on this page.

    Luckily I don't NEED for this car to work right away. I got it to replace my beat up 2007 and as an alternate to run around and haul things so I don't put too many miles on the 2013 Persona (which doesn't seem as solid as the Gen 2).
     
  2. dcwenger

    dcwenger Junior Member

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    T2).
     
    #22 dcwenger, Feb 1, 2023
    Last edited: Feb 1, 2023
  3. dcwenger

    dcwenger Junior Member

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    Well I received my AP200 yesterday and this is what it is showing:

    . upload_2023-2-4_14-24-42.png
    The speed sensors I can handle. I've changed those before on the 2007, but it looks like there is short somewhere and I'll have to do some troubleshooting to find out what it is. I have no idea where to start. The battery is brand new (pulled from my 2007) and fully charged, but on the display screen on the Vehicle Signal Check mode, it only shows 11.5 volts. I can turn on the radio, headlights, etc and I still have sufficient power even though the voltage drops below 11. Yesterday it was at 11.9, but today I put cables on with a fully charged battery and it still didn't go above 12v. I checked the HEV fuse and it's good.

    Not sure about the B1424 code. The AC blows nice and cool, but I don't want to make sure I address all the codes.

    No sure where to start to find the short.
     
    #23 dcwenger, Feb 5, 2023
    Last edited: Feb 5, 2023
  4. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    If your device will retrieve freeze frames, it would be interesting to get those for the C1241 and the C2318 and see what the voltages were at the time those codes were set. 11.5 or even 11 would not be low enough to set those, but they clearly got lower at one point anyway.

    Low voltages in either place don't necessarily always mean low battery voltage; they could mean a voltage drop somewhere along the path. But it wouldn't hurt to at least see what voltages were seen then, and then think about how that might have happened.
     
  5. dcwenger

    dcwenger Junior Member

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    This reader does have an option for freeze frames, but nothing that shows the voltage. The rest of the information may as well be in Cantonese, as I can't decipher it.
     
  6. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    The freeze frame for a C1241 ought to include IG VOLTAGE ("too high", "too low", or "normal") in a Gen 2. Funny that's all the info you get; I seem to recall in Gen 3 the brake ECU saves more voltage measurements.

    The freeze frame for a C2318 ought to include:
    • U VOL VAL
    • V VOL VAL
    • W VOL VAL
    • BATT VOL VAL
    • IG (+B) VOL VAL
    • U VOL
    • V VOL
    • W VOL
    • BATT VOL
    • IG VOL

    (the latter five just show ON / OFF depending on whether the voltage is above or below a limit, 6 for U/V/W, 10 for BATT and IG).
     
  7. dcwenger

    dcwenger Junior Member

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    I have tried every option available with the scanner, but this is all it gives me. The information tells me nothing.
    upload_2023-2-5_19-7-15.png
     
  8. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    That is kind of puzzling. All five voltage values I expected are there (battery, IG(+B), U, V, W), but all five showing as exactly 0.00. And the corresponding five voltage status readings don't match: IG+B voltage status shows off (as you'd expect for 0.00) but Battery voltage status shows on (as you wouldn't) and so does W phase voltage status.

    I wonder if Autel got those PID specs quite right.

    Did you get any freeze frame for the C1241?

    In any case, even if the freeze frame data don't seem to make sense, the C1241 and C2318 are still the first two codes I would try to investigate, using the troubleshooting steps in the manual. At first I was fooled by your screenshot saying History at the top, but now I see both of those codes shown as Status: Current.

    As long as there are currently unsolved, reported problems with supply voltages, it could be premature to start going after the other reported things.

    The B1421, of course, you can ignore. That code is only used as a way you can tell if the solar sensor is working. The code should be there unless strong light is shining.
     
  9. dcwenger

    dcwenger Junior Member

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    Well now for some reason, the C2318 code is gone and there don't seem to be any DTCs for the transmission. Now I'm getting other codes that didn't appear before. The codes I have now are:
    C0200
    C0205
    C1241
    U0123
    U0124
    U0126

    Here is the freeze frame for the C1241:
    upload_2023-2-6_14-42-58.png
    upload_2023-2-6_14-43-55.png

    I still have no idea what I'm reading. I'll have to find the repair manual and see if I can figure it out. I have searched in the library here, but can't seem to fine one. Most of the links I've found on this site are no good. What is the best and most user-friendly one to download?

    I can't find any detail codes to help me narrow in on the problem. I can start pulling relays and fuses from my 2007, but it would be easier if I had a better idea where to look.
     
    #29 dcwenger, Feb 6, 2023
    Last edited: Feb 6, 2023
  10. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    You're sure this is a 2005 Prius, right? :)

    The C1241 freeze frame is showing a "detailed freeze DTC" of 512. I thought the only ones there were for gen 2 were 81, 82, 83, or 84. So I'm still puzzled. The Ig1, Ig2, +B1, and +B2 voltages are certainly very low. The big difference between BS1 and BS2 is suspicious also. BS2, VM1, and VM2 I notice are around 8 point something, which would certainly be very low if those are supposed to be 12ish, but I don't remember if those are.

    In searching for repair manual access, have you studied this wiki page?

    Toyota Service Information and Where To Find It | PriusChat
     
  11. dcwenger

    dcwenger Junior Member

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    Yes, it is a 2005.

    I did search the page for the repair manual, but still don't know where to go. Not sure I can figure it out without the detail codes. I've tried every option available with the AP 200 and don't see anything that will give me that information.
     
  12. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    Did you find information on that wiki page explaining how to obtain access to the repair manual?
     
  13. dcwenger

    dcwenger Junior Member

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    Nothing that I could find except possibly the Bently's for $70. Still not sure it would help me though without the detail codes.

    Should I have cleared the codes after replacing the ICWP? Just wondering if that could be related, but I'm sure that would be a stretch. I revved it up while it was sitting in the garage and there was barely any power.

    I have read several posts and other information online stating the C1241 could be the Skid Control ECU. In the ad the kid had for the car, he stated that the brakes locked up on him and the it wouldn't drive, but when I bought it from him, he said it stopped doing that and that it was fine. I didn't notice any issues with the brakes when I pulled it into my garage. Just wondering if that could also be related.

    This car was sitting for 4 months and because the person I bought it from had Utah plates on it, he had to keep the plates. I couldn't drive it home, so I had it towed and have only driven it from the street up into my garage. DMV will not let me register it in CA or get a CA title until I get it smogged and I can't do that until I find the issue that's causing the error codes. I also cannot drive it to a mechanic because there are no plates.
     
    #33 dcwenger, Feb 6, 2023
    Last edited: Feb 6, 2023
  14. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    Did you not find information about Toyota's technical information service (TIS), and how to have access to everything available there for $20, and possibly to the same content for free if they have an arrangement with your local library, etc.?

    The detail codes are helpful to have; they'll usually let you skip over sections of the troubleshooting steps in the manual. Not having them isn't fatal; you just have more work to do, not skipping over those steps.
     
  15. dcwenger

    dcwenger Junior Member

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    I did find the information on the TIS, but I think I'm going to see if I can get the detail codes first, as I think I would need more than 2 days to figure things out. Something always comes up and I'm afraid I would run out of time. I couldn't find anything from the local libraries. The option for ALLDATA diy is pretty good. $20/month, $60/year or $130/3years. Even the 3 year plan is not bad if the manuals will provide the same information as the Toyota TIS. I realize those are vehicle specific, but since I have a 2005 and a 2007, it would be helpful. I will post more information if/when I get the detail codes. Looks like it may be the Skid Control ECU, but I'll wait until I get more info before trying to dig into other issues.

    UPDATE: I just got off the phone with the Autel support team and they verified that this tool (Maxi AP200) is not capable of reading the detail codes. I will have to obtain a tool that will provide that information. For $70, I would have expected better, as it only gives me a hint of several different causes. I would have paid more for a more sophisticated tool.
     
    #35 dcwenger, Feb 7, 2023
    Last edited: Feb 7, 2023
  16. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    Another option is, during the two days, to do a bunch of print-to-file of whatever sections look like they'll be relevant.
     
  17. dcwenger

    dcwenger Junior Member

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    I thought about that too. I might do that. If I can find the relevant information, it will be worth it. Do you know if the ALLDATA would have the same information?
     
  18. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    Whatever Elektroingenieur wrote about it in that wiki page is probably better information than I have.
     
  19. dcwenger

    dcwenger Junior Member

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    Well, I goofed. I decided to clear the codes, as I hadn't done that since I replaced the inverter pump and I thought that might be the issue. Now I have no codes, but the red triangle comes on as soon as it goes into the "Ready" mode with the "problem" notification in the display. I read another post from here last night (which now I can't find) that indicated it may be pointing to the hybrid battery and that the P0AA6 may not show up on these readers. Unfortunately, I cannot drive the car, as it has no plates, so I can't put mileage on it to see if the other codes return. I will post updates once I figure it out.
     
  20. dcwenger

    dcwenger Junior Member

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    Well, I took the car to get it smogged and it passed. Took it to the hybrid mechanic (King of Hybrid in Riverside, CA). He scanned it and said the only issue was the headlight leveler, which is why I am getting the "RTOD". He said it was safe to drive it and I have now put a couple thousand miles on it with no issues. It actually runs smoother than my 2007 and am getting between 40 and 43 around town. Not too bad. It was a pretty good deal for $1200. Unfortunately, CA charged me a total of $600 to register and inspect it, as it was previously registered in Utah. Still not bad for about $2100 ($150 for diagnosis and $150 to tow it to the house).

    The headlight leveler bracket was either removed or broken, so today I crawled underneath and swapped the one from the 2007 and put it on the 2005. No change. It stays on most of the time, but sometimes goes off. I wonder if it would help to pull it off and clean it or should I replace it? I saw someone on YouTube show that he opened it up to clean the potentiometers and that seemed to work. Not sure what the best option is.

    Oh and one other issue (and it is the same I have had for years with the 2007) is the headlights. Sometimes one goes off and then sometimes the other goes off, but then occasionally, they shut off completely. I know there are other threads on this and I'll have to research them to find the answer, but this is so frustrating. I have replaced the lamps and the ballasts (yes, I know they're not actually called ballasts) on my other one several times and the issues keep coming back.

    Anyway, it looks like this car is pretty solid with a few minor issues. Just wanted to update and note that the codes I originally had, have not come back.