12V Battery Cable help ASAP

If the battery and cable are your only issues you are very lucky. 2.5v means it was discharging for many weeks or it quickly discharged into a dead short that somehow bypassed the fuse in the terminal. A lot of this is pretty basic. Get some help even if its an experienced diyer with a meter.

 

Ordered the fuse box off ebay for $15, looking for the cable now. Will buy the splicer from home depot.

If anyone has this cable please let me know. Thanks

 

I'm going to attempt to do this myself, bit of a learning curve but with your guidance I can achieve a positive outcome.

 

Autozone said battery is toasted, its only four months old. He showed me failed and at zero volt.

Now I’m thinking car is not dead because of burnt fusebox and may be it was burnt all along and I never noticed it. Regardless I have already cut the cable and will head to the junkyard.

 

Got the wiring harness and battery, waiting for the fuse box to arrive

 

Update! I finally got the car up and running, found out the negative battery terminal is way bigger than the battery post, seems like I have no luck with this car as I parked the car after a test drive my MFD & clock went dark I wonder sometimes now what did I do to deserve this

Does anyone know where can I source a narrow negative battery terminal from?

MFD & Clock - Did I blow a fuse because chances of burning out both of them at the same time is pretty slim. Should I look for the fuse under the hood and beneath the steering wheel, please advise. Thanks

 

If the post from the battery is too "skinny" so the clamp is too loose, auto parts store sell lead shim caps that slip down over the post. Bought a pack from NAPA in December. Only a few bucks. Part NW 740255. If the shim is too bulky, cut in half vertically where the side cutouts are and just use half a shim.

 

Thanks, did you have to modify it being broad in the bottom? or does it slip over nicely?

 

How did you end up with the wrong negative cable? I do have one that I might sell for $20 plus shipping.

82123-47040 toyota


Link

 

It slipped over the post fine, but it was a smidge too thick using the entire shim, which is why I cut it in half -- lengthwise, not horizonally. Then it was fine.

 

I think I'm going to try the shims first. Thanks for the offer

 

is it very thick, can I use a wire cuter?

 

You do have to be cautious about leaving a gap between the terminal clamp and the post. As much as 80-100 amps can flow through the negative cable. Burning and melting are caused by marginal connections carrying high current.

Did you burn your original negative cable as well?

 

I doubt you will have to cut it. From what I gather most people have no trouble with the shims. I was just using a mini hacksaw. The shims are soft lead. But yeah, shims or no shims you always want snug clamps

 

No negative is good but last owner was running a bigger battery hence the reason why it has bigger connectors. I bought the slim battery and now connector doesn’t fit on the terminal. I’m not driving the car until I fix this issue. Btw found out the MFD fuse is burnt so going to replace it.

 

Bought a pack of battery shims from Autozone, lets see how it works out.

 

I got the car ready and drove it around the neighbourhood and guess what I got the red triangle pop again arghhhhh I’m tired of this nuisance. I could barley reached home with loss of power. I called hometown hybrids and booked the appointment for Wednesday to replace the hv battery. Seems like I’ve no luck with this junk, talk about Toyota reliability, I’ll never buy another hybrid again.

 

can't say that i blame you

 

What was the hybrid battery charge level while you were driving it?