Its time for a rebuild.

I have thought about that as well, the car would just burn some oil in worse case scenario, something I am already use to lol. May be I should go ahead and finish this one through.

 

Well I have honed all the cylinders and the rust marking are only on the surface. It’s a common theme with steel sleeved engines if water gets introduced into them and sits stagnant for a while.
In the past I have honed them out and used the motors without an issue.

My only reservation is due to the little bit of putting at a couple of spots.

It is not a Ferrari but if I am doing this sort of work I’d try to do everything to the best of my abilities. My bore gauge should be coming in soon and I’ll do the measurements for all 4 cylinders, if it falls within spec I’ll move forward with the rebuild of this block. If there is plenty of meat left within the tolerance then I might hone a bit more to see if I can rid the rust stains.

 

Bore gauge came in and these are the numbers I got

Cylinder # , Measurement at 10mm from top , Measurement at 50 mm from top

1, 80.46, 80.45
2, 80.46, 80.46
3, 80.48, 80.48
4, 80.47, 80.47

Standard measurement is suggested to be 80.50 to 80.513mm

Maximum diameter measurement cant me more than 80.63mm

My bore gauge isnt a high end piece that most machine shops use, even at +/- 0.05mm I am way below the max tolerance. I took off a bit more material from the cylinder with rust stains and its looking better than before. I think this block is salvageable, plus the pitting that is the issue is at the extreme top of the cylinder. The top compression ring doesnt even get past it. I am content with the block consuming a bit of oil if that'll be the worse of it.

I cleaned the head yesterday and its looking spiffy as well. I'll be measuring the head for warpage in a bit and lapping the valves soon.

 

Within range, the only time I was able to pass the feeler gauge through was measuring cross on the block side, 0.05 wont pass but 0.03mm did at couple of the spots. Intake and exhaust sides were well within range as well.

 

All gunked up with carbon, not only the oil control ring but also the compression rings had varnish behind them, I’ll post cleaned pictures tomorrow. Parts have started to come in and I should be commencing on rebuild in a day or two.

 

No idea, it came out of my sisters car and I am not sure how often they got the oil change, the inside of the engine is clean though leading me to believe the car had timely oil changes.

I will be installing an oil catch can once the rebuilt engine is installed in the car.

I have a second car so the prius can be decommissioned hence is why this upcoming week I'll be pulling out the motor from my car, opening it up and inspecting the insides to see which route I want to take.

So far I have received

- New updated pistons.
- New updated ring set.
- OEM gasket set.
- Mopar gasket maker (seem to be the best gasket RTV at the moment).
- Main crankshaft seal (transmission side).
- New thermostat and housing.
- PCV valve.
- New catch can with bracket etc.

Couple of specialty tools that I didnt have before such as valve spring compressor, bore gauge etc.


Still waiting on new head bolts and thinking about using the Fel-pro head gasket. All the research I have done so far has lead me to believe that the fel-pro gasket is better than the OE gasket. Even though the OE gasket should last a while, way longer than I might end up keeping the car but I dont want to settle with less than whats best available right now for the rebuild.

Even with all the new parts and tools the rebuild total should be less than $900.

 

Here are some comparison pictures

Piston on the left is from a 2013, from what I have read 2010~2014 were these part 13101-37120
Piston on the right is from 2015, updated piston part number 13101-37240

I am using this quote for the info, what doesnt make sense is that for 2014 prius is using new updated pistons yet old ring set ?? That shouldnt work properly as you can see that the oil control ring channel for the new piston is much wider. Old, thin, oil control ring would just float in that channel with ample room on either side.

The only two differences I see are wider channel for oil control rings and bigger holes for oil to pass through.

 

Thank you, I spoke to a machinist yesterday and he advised on the glass method as well, first to check the flatness and second to clean it up a bit.

I am pulling out my stock motor this upcoming week, weather permitting since I dont have a garage or bay. Once that one is out and opened I can make a better decision as to which one to use. I can rebuild the head thats not an issue i.e. take off valves, de-carbon/clean them, lap them, change the seals etc, seeing how flat my OE head is I might tear it down, get it skimmed by a local shop and then put it back together myself.

 

Let’s try this again, reluctantly.
Old motor has been moved to a different room to avoid any parts mix up. New motor with hopefully perfect internals is going on the disassembly block next.