ABS light on

Did you have to tow it?
Try clear the code and see it comes back up.
Is the brake actuator making the buzzing noise every 10 to 20 seconds?

 

Before clearing it, at least find out why it's on. (After clearing it, you can't.)

If you don't have a scan tool to use, you don't need one. You can get trouble codes from the brake system this way:

Blink (a/k/a Flash) Codes – How to. | PriusChat

(That method also works for some, but not all, other types of trouble code in the car.)

 

On a brighter note, even if you get both jobs performed, you'll have a car that's ready to go for another 10-12 years. You will not find a more reliable car at a better price. Those are the two major repairs that are common.

 

I will put bets on the 2009 that is just the accumulator and pump not the actuator or what's attached to the pedal over and up from the pump accumulator that's why you want the codes to see if you can help narrow it down mechanic stethoscope which is very cheap like $9 is also a big help You can try and listen to see if you hear a leak which will sound kind of like a hissing on one of the two units on a generation 2 is usually the accumulator pump assembly the thing with the round black accumulator on it and the silver pump next to it I would certainly try replace that first because that's usually the problem in the Gen 2 that I've noticed personally I haven't replaced the part on the firewall that connects to the pedal yet that doesn't mean anything just means what's happened in my world. And this seems like awfully low mileage for this to be happening seriously you should be now just possibly hitting your first set of brake pads and drums or shoes and your accumulator and actuator are out how did they diagnose this problem without them reading the codes and if they did that it's usually a courtesy for them to provide you a printout or something on the receipt I mean seriously and what state is this you're in?

 

Yeah if your brakes are working perfectly and the MFD display shows the regenerative braking working when you push the pedal and all that My car worked like that for 2 years and then all of a sudden one day I think one caliper was working in the front and then I changed the accumulator and pump and everything went away lights all of it working perfectly probably same for this car I think the actuator portion in this car the part that connects to the pedal is all hydraulic so I don't think it would be able to throw any codes per se but I could be wrong The interesting to see what they come up with.

 

I didn't even look to see what state you're in around $1,000 or what have you is about right for the part new You can find low mileage cars to get them out of for 200 usually this trouble doesn't show up on this particular model you know until 150 plus thousand miles generally speaking from what I've seen in most of these now there are the rare bird that pops up it 110,000 and what have you Not sure why that is it's electronics that's why when they fail they fail I do know this as the vehicles get newer the planned obsolescence is becoming much more dialed in by manufacturers so now they know they can build one of these brake pumps and it will fail around 110 120,000 mi or so they can almost engineer that in with precision and they seemingly are doing it another reason why I don't like to get too new with these vehicles on not really into that You can do better than 3,000 I can assure you but if you're in California or out west it will be tougher to do everything is made harder for you there.

 

You've got a lot of Prius chat members around you in Southern California or see what happens I guess I'm in North Carolina if you were within the four states of here I could probably get you some help but that far away the people I know in California more than likely you wouldn't be up for dealing with East LA and all that sort of thing you know Chicanos lowriders Cheech and Chong yeah

 

If you have a Gen 2, you don't need to, because they're combined in one thing that's just replaced as an assembly. It's owners of other generations who have to know the difference.

 

I noticed today a low price on this part of $550 if I'm not mistaken but I can't remember where it was in a Google search or it might have been 780 I'm looking for two different pieces right now but it was very reasonable considering I haven't purchased any of these new yet and I guess I've been lucky I really can't justify the $1,000 for my work vehicle when I can just change it for another used one It's not that bad of a thing to have to do and if I'm only paying like $200 for them or something I don't feel so bad having to do it twice or something.

 

Well good luck I hope it works out usually I don't know about the 7 hours of Discovery or any of that but usually when I stick a battery in my Gen 2 everything is alive and seconds and breaks and all or working and we're flying down the road to the next service call but I guess anything is possible and we will pray for the best

 

Do you know the story about the "main power connector" mentioned there?

The usual way to get "lots of air in brake lines and ABS module" is if somebody did work on the brake system (significant enough to have opened hydraulic lines and let air in), and then didn't effectively bleed the air out.

But if there is no history of that kind of work being done, then the "air" they found in the system might be nitrogen (which "air" mostly is, anyway). The accumulator contains a bunch of nitrogen under pressure, which is supposed to stay on its own side of a sealed bellows, and just supply the fluid pressure to work the brakes. But if that bellows starts to leak, then there will be bubbles in the brake fluid, as they found, even with nobody ever having opened the system. The bubbles were coming from inside the house.

Going through a bleed procedure, as they did, will get those bubbles out, and the brakes will work better. They won't be back to new condition, though, because now there's less nitrogen in the accumulator, and the pump will run more frequently as a result (just as in a house with well water when the pressure tank has too little air). Also, the remaining nitrogen may continue to slowly leak into the fluid, so the "now how did these bubbles get here?" bleed job may have to be repeated down the road. Eventually, replacing that assembly might be less annoying.