New 2015 Prius v Two Owner with questions

I installed a AVC211 JVC HU in my wifes car. Definately buy the resistor for $10 which tricks the e brake into thinking the car is parked. Otherwise you can't make changes or use some features while driving huge PITA... if you like.....I'm a "finger is my safety kinda guy" FYI.

 

Don't think I would try to use the stock mic. It has a preamp built in so the levels would not be right and you would have more wires to run down.

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/402599205512?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=402599205512&targetid=1645685075408&device=c&mktype=&googleloc=9010741&poi=&campaignid=16730423415&mkgroupid=135815925780&rlsatarget=pla-1645685075408&abcId=9300841&merchantid=603820006&gclid=Cj0KCQjwxYOiBhC9ARIsANiEIfaPWS0sdvkJbrI6IbMXhh7rZPok6lU330iKREbZLeVfVKKEhMw_6OAaAhrUEALw_wcB Like this one.

 

Pretty sure you going to loose all of the hybrid monitoring.....on the factory screen.....

 

Im not sure if toyota had different wiring harness for the different trim levels. On my Gen 2 I have fog lights but my wife's base model doesn't have fog lights but I might add them. I would think that without a fog light switch on the left stalk that you will need to run wires and a relay and mount a switch to a blank panel. I did this to add heated seats to both our Prii. Not too bad of a job.

 

Agreed.

When I did my system, I gutted the stock mic pod and mounted the aftermarket mic in the Toyota plastic case, then wired that mic to the modular connector. Then inside the dash at the head unit location I spliced those wires onto the appropriate connector for my new deck.

That way I used Toyota's native wires from the roof mic position down to the head unit, no need to pull new wiring. It has worked flawlessly for 4.9 years and counting.

 

Good idea.

 

I did something similar...Ran the new mic down the a pillar and across the headliner inside of the overhead console where the stock mic was. It did not sound very good. So i removed It and just poked it out the side of the console and aimed it at the drivers head. It is visible now but sounds so much better. And I messed up earlier. I installed a Pioneer AVC211 unit not a JVC.

 

Don’t procrastinate on the EGR though. All the electrical tweaking could be “rearranging deck chairs on the Titanic”, if your head gasket blows.

 

I'd highly recommend to remove this nut:



and even better, the stud it screws onto. It's a pain to get to; you'll likely need to resort to loosening adjacent conduit supports, pulling stuff out of the way a bit.

The stud requires an E8 Torx socket (do check first link in my signature, for tool suggestions). I found it very difficult to unscrew from the block, due to steel stud in aluminum head I think. I had an E8 Torx socket on a diminutive 1/4" wrench for that, and was fearful I was going to round the head on the stud. It must have taken half-an hour of very patient wrenching, and with all the crap in the vicinity I could only get one click of the ratchet at a time.

The pay off for getting that stud out, you don't have to remove the two rearmost studs where the cooler connects to exhaust manifold. You will find a new (minor) issue: as you pull the valve/cooler assembly forward and off, the top bumps an aluminum tube running above (gas tank vapour return I think). If you loosen it's bracket, it can be bumped up enough to clear.

To get a ratchet wrench with socket on the nut you'll be playing with the length, short vs long socket, and a short extension. It's been a few years since I last removed that nut/stud combo (and left it off, permanently), forget exactly what I use, but it was a swivel head ratchet wrench, and I'd hazard it involved a short socket and a 1.5" extension, something like that.

 

I wonder if there is access to cut the stud off with a multitool even if it damaged the egr mounting bracket?

 

Yeah, or cut off the mounting bracket on the cooler.

I backed out the one on ours, on a slow weekend. It's really something to do sometime other than when you're going to dive in, do the cleaning. I prefer using a long-handled ratchet with swivel head, did use that for the nut, but had to resort to a diminutive 1/4" drive jet wrench with the E8 Torx socket for the stud. Just pressed VERY firmly when first breaking it loose, then basicially one ratchet click at a time, and it was stubborn all the way out.

I also removed, lightly coated with anti-seize and reinstalled the other nuts/stud combo (at EGR valve) and bolt (atop EGR cooler).

Prep work.