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  1. Justin1432

    Justin1432 Junior Member

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    Hi there, my 2008 Toyota prius i just recently acquired does not blow cold a/c all the fans and actuators inside the cab seem to be working fine. Where should i start to diagnose this problem. Should I recover the refrigerant then pull a vacuum, to check for leaks, then add by weight the amount of refrigerant needed? Should i worry about adding the ND-11 oil with the refrigerant? Also the a/c hadn’t been used in the car for a few months.
     
  2. Justin1432

    Justin1432 Junior Member

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    I just called the dealer, they said $230 to diagnose and then that $230 will go towards the repair.
     
  3. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    If you go to a shop to charge the AC, it probably will be less than $230. And if there is a problem, the shop charging the AC will probably let you know.
     
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  4. Justin1432

    Justin1432 Junior Member

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    My uncle works at an automotive shop, i was going to have him recover refrigerant, pull a vacuum, and recharge! Should i be worried about contamination from non ND-11 oil? Or is it a non issue because a vacuum is being pulled and therefore removing and impurities? If i should worry about contamination, will brand new hoses that have never been used before be a good solution?
     
  5. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    There is mention there shouldn't be any type of contamination with hybrid AC systems and regular AC systems. The important thing is using the right oil when you need it, (ND-11) only. If the machine used doesn't have a function to support hybrid vehicles, it's best to use new lines and even the fittings if possible.

    When I get my AC recharged/fixed, my mechanic in Rosemead has a machine that has a hybrid function. It will first flush out the system and then do it's thing in recovering and adding the refrigerant again. No changing of lines or fittings. That has worked without any problems in all my Prius cars.
     
  6. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    Phone up a dealership, get a quote for and AC recharge service? I went that route when ours was getting so-so, quoted price was $150 CDN. When it was done they tried their damnest to up that number, citing shop supplies, price of the AC gas, and so on. I manage to hold them "close" to the quote.
     
  7. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    I don't see anything in this thread about asking the A/C what it thinks is going on, yet.

    Somebody at least do that before going off to a shop and pulling out the wallet.

    Hold the auto and fresh/recirc buttons while turning the car on. Read codes from the MFD.

    If 00 comes back, then it has no opinion, but at least you'll have asked.
     
  8. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    If this car is a 2nd Gen, those buttons are on the MFD or Steering wheel controls
     
  9. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    Right. As far as I know, only the physical ones on the steering wheel work for requesting the trouble codes in Gen 2; at least that's the only way I've ever done it.
     
  10. Justin1432

    Justin1432 Junior Member

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    Thanks that helps a lot!
     
  11. Justin1432

    Justin1432 Junior Member

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    Thanks! I did call a dealership, again I’m just not sure I trust the techs. The machines they have could’ve easily been contaminated by any number of the numerous employees that work there. And again I am not sure how critical it is to have zero contamination. I might have to go to the dealership anyways to get it checked out, but for now my uncle’s shop with brand new hoses seems the best bet!
     
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  12. Justin1432

    Justin1432 Junior Member

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    Yes I did check trouble codes, 21, 23, 41. So i checked the DTCs and related them to the B1421,21 B1423,23 B1441,41 but I feel it didn’t give enough information. The vents work in every position i checked all the actuators to see if they were moving. Everything seems to be working fine, except for the cold a/c part.
     
  13. rjparker

    rjparker Tu Humilde Sirviente

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    It is much more important in a compressor that has three phase high voltage windings. Just like the transaxle, the oil has to be an effective electrical insulator and very clean.
     
  14. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    ... the oil's own electrical insulating qualities are one thing, but it also has to be free of any chemicals that would degrade the electrical insulation that is baked onto the compressor motor windings at the factory.
     
  15. Justin1432

    Justin1432 Junior Member

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    Gotcha, that all makes sense! I want to know how much contamination would cause issues, again I’m not trying to push the limits on what i can get away with im just curious. Like a volumetric # that would cause disruption. Unless it is difficult to tell and cannot really be expressed because each car differs.
     
  16. Justin1432

    Justin1432 Junior Member

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    That makes sense as well thanks!
     
  17. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    What's a low side gauge say right now while it's sitting You got 100 lb?
     
  18. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    You might find this of interest. It includes a graph from Denso showing the loss of insulation resistance from one percent contamination with the wrong oil. Toyota recommends no contamination, as in, not even using hoses or gauges that have been used on cars that use other oil.

    There's another article that was linked here some years ago suggesting a possible way to recover if wrong oil is added. If the mistake is caught in time, just replacing the compressor and flushing the rest of the system using HECAT H-1000 flush equipment may head off the need for more expensive repairs.
     
  19. Aegean

    Aegean Active Member

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    Do not overcomplicate things. You have warm air because likely there is a slow leak. Usually, this would be in the evaporator coil which would be over one or two thousand dollars to replace. So, buy a can with a gauge for $20, and slowly start adding R134A (without oil) until you touch the green range. No more than that because is risky to overcharge and destroy the expensive electric compressor. If it is cold and lasts cold the whole season you are lucky. Next year you can recharge.

    If not, you can vacuum, check for leaks, repair, charge with proper oil and uncontaminated gauges measuring exactly the grams in the specs by weight, not pressures as in other cars.
     
  20. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    Still useful to include codes in your posts when you have them. To somebody else they may carry useful information.

    Your 23 code indicates that the pressure switch showed the refrigerant pressure out of the expected range, so that helps confirm you're not barking up a wrong tree thinking about refrigerant.

    The B1441 is a dissenting opinion from the car itself, at least where the air mix door is concerned. I don't know whose opinion is right, but when the car has an opinion, there's often something to it.

    The specific detection condition for B1441 is that the air mix door position reading didn't change, while the A/C amplifier thought it was moving the door.

    Sounds like you already looked at the info for the code, but it's in here (about 81 pages in) in case you were looking someplace else.

    https://attachments.priuschat.com/attachment-files/2018/05/146483_AC.pdf