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Difficult diagnosis: Prius died while driving

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by Patrick Wright, May 22, 2023.

  1. Patrick Wright

    Patrick Wright New Member

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    2006 gen 2 with 280k

    so the story: I had just left my house, made an abrupt right turn at a stoplight, and the traction control kicked on (wet pavement). I decided to continue pressing the gas pedal to try to make the next light even tho I usually let off when TC kicks in. After I noticed my ice had turned off and I was driving slowly on the battery. I pulled into a parking lot and tried to disconnect the 12 V battery and reconnect it and restart. I drove around the parking lot on the battery only for a short while after I came to a conclusion that maybe I ran out of gas and tried to add 5 gallons of gas, still no start but at that point my battery was only at one bar . Stupid mistake! but I rebuilt the pack and I had it charged and discharged for balancing and now has 60% state of charge.

    I thought that was my issue, but the Prius still wouldn’t go into ready. I tried adding 2 more gallons. Nothing. I did some further digging and found a slightly corroded pin on the high-voltage wire connector. I replaced the wiring harness and the BCU. Still no start.

    I have checked all related fuses in the engine bay and under the steering wheel. I’ve replaced all bad cells and have had the battery balanced and replaced the BCU and harness. The bus bar has no noticeable corrosion. The cooling fan has no corrosion. I can’t find any burnt wires or corroded connections or loose connections.

    I still have code P 3000 that shows up before even trying to enter ready. After trying to start the Prius a couple times P 3004 shows up.

    I’m using Dr. Prius I have torque pro is there another app I can download on my android tablet that will show the INF codes? Is there anything further I can diagnose before calling this a lost cause. It’s been a great car I feel like it has something to do with the traction control and me trying to drive through it, possibly the transaxle or inverter?

    I’m tempted to assume there maybe as a fuel pump reset switch like on my diesel work truck I may try jumping wires to the fuel pump to see if that is the issue
     
  2. sam spade 2

    sam spade 2 Senior Member

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    After ALL of that time, effort and money..................
    You didn't mention any attention to the 12 V battery or it's main connections.
    You probably should have gone there FIRST.
     
  3. Patrick Wright

    Patrick Wright New Member

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    12.7 V about 3 years old
     
  4. Patrick Wright

    Patrick Wright New Member

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    Also the high amp fuse and 5 amp are good
     
  5. SFO

    SFO Senior Member

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    Welcome to PriusChat!!
    After disconnecting the 12v, first start by cleaning up the MAF sensor, butterfly valve and throttle bore, unless already known to be clean.
    Not that I'm aware of, and neither of those offer INFs (aka subcodes/detailed codes). At a minimum you may need a better handheld obd2 scanner or App, as Dr P isn't all that useful : Gen2 OBD2 app review | PriusChat.

    Many here will use a mini-vci cable and toyota techstream installed on a windows device (or you can emulate as well), this will offer INFs.

    FYI : you're moderated until you've posted 5 times.
    Sam, please reread the first paragraph.
     
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  6. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    Yes, take a look at this thread:

    Gen2 OBD2 app review | PriusChat

    The car wants you to know what's up, and hasn't been given much opportunity to tell you yet.

    I wouldn't be anywhere near calling it a lost cause before getting the complete information.
     
  7. Patrick Wright

    Patrick Wright New Member

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    after reviewing the comments I’ll be purchasing autel and try to get the INF CODES.
     
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  8. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    Resetting the 12v may have set you back a bit, the codes that were stored are now erased. You will have to dig a little deeper to find the cause now. I just cannot believe your car would stop after the traction control lit up for a brief moment. Running out of gas, that's a different story, still a strange coincidence it happened the exact same time.

    Have you checked the FUSES in the front engine compartment, next to the jump start point?
     
  9. sam spade 2

    sam spade 2 Senior Member

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    Simply disconnecting and reconnecting the battery is
    NOT "giving it any attention".
    I see no other reference to it.
     
  10. Patrick Wright

    Patrick Wright New Member

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    Yes I verified the fusible link is all perfect also verified AM2 and a couple other various fuses were good.
    My inverter pump is 2 years old and is pumping with IGN/on

    Would the MAF not allow the Prius to ready though? Or more or less a maintenance item?
     
    #10 Patrick Wright, May 23, 2023
    Last edited by a moderator: May 23, 2023
  11. edthefox5

    edthefox5 Senior Member

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    Corroded wire?

    When you rebuilt the hybrid battery did you take the battery ecu out of the battery chassis the one in the metal can and carefully check the harness plugs and the ecu pins for corrosion and take the pcb board out of the can and check the pcb for corrosion or smutz on it.

    Very common issue. Especially if that hybrid battery pre rebuild was throwing the RTOD and that code was repeatedly cleared to continue driving by disconnecting the 12 volt battery.

    This guy:
     

    Attached Files:

    #11 edthefox5, May 23, 2023
    Last edited: May 23, 2023
  12. SFO

    SFO Senior Member

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    You measured 12.7V at the jump points under the front hood?

    Did you lock down the orange safety switch?

    [​IMG]

    Though it may not be related to why the vehicle stopped running (those codes are gone), best to follow the obd2 codes that you have now. The FSM workups below are a bit dated, but may help. Also double check your HV rebuilding work, as you may have missed something.

    Here is the workup for DTC P3004 with INF 131 : https://share.qclt.com/%E4%B8%B0%E7%94%B0%E6%99%AE%E7%91%9E%E6%96%AF%E5%8E%9F%E5%8E%82%E8%8B%B1%E6%96%87%E6%89%8B%E5%86%8Cpdf%E6%A0%BC%E5%BC%8F/Repair%20Manual/04pruisr/05/21bpm/3004131.pdf

    Here is the workup for DTC P3004 with INF 132 : https://share.qclt.com/%E4%B8%B0%E7%94%B0%E6%99%AE%E7%91%9E%E6%96%AF%E5%8E%9F%E5%8E%82%E8%8B%B1%E6%96%87%E6%89%8B%E5%86%8Cpdf%E6%A0%BC%E5%BC%8F/Repair%20Manual/04pruisr/05/21bpm/3004132.pdf

    Here is the workup for DTC P3004 with INF 133 : https://share.qclt.com/%E4%B8%B0%E7%94%B0%E6%99%AE%E7%91%9E%E6%96%AF%E5%8E%9F%E5%8E%82%E8%8B%B1%E6%96%87%E6%89%8B%E5%86%8Cpdf%E6%A0%BC%E5%BC%8F/Repair%20Manual/04pruisr/05/21bpm/3004133.pdf

    Here is the workup for DTC P3000 with INFs 123, 125, 603 : https://share.qclt.com/%E4%B8%B0%E7%94%B0%E6%99%AE%E7%91%9E%E6%96%AF%E5%8E%9F%E5%8E%82%E8%8B%B1%E6%96%87%E6%89%8B%E5%86%8Cpdf%E6%A0%BC%E5%BC%8F/Repair%20Manual/04pruisr/05/21bpm/3000123.pdf

    Here is the workup for DTC P3000 with INF 388 : https://share.qclt.com/%E4%B8%B0%E7%94%B0%E6%99%AE%E7%91%9E%E6%96%AF%E5%8E%9F%E5%8E%82%E8%8B%B1%E6%96%87%E6%89%8B%E5%86%8Cpdf%E6%A0%BC%E5%BC%8F/Repair%20Manual/04pruisr/05/21bpm/3000388.pdf

    Here is the workup for DTC P3000 with INF 389 : https://share.qclt.com/%E4%B8%B0%E7%94%B0%E6%99%AE%E7%91%9E%E6%96%AF%E5%8E%9F%E5%8E%82%E8%8B%B1%E6%96%87%E6%89%8B%E5%86%8Cpdf%E6%A0%BC%E5%BC%8F/Repair%20Manual/04pruisr/05/21bpm/3000389.pdf

    Per the manual, follow the workup for P3004 first, then do P3000.
    If you feel this is fuel related, buy some starting fluid and test the idea, if that keeps the engine running for more than 15 seconds, then check the fuel related fuses/relays/connections/wiring and finally pump.
     
  13. SFO

    SFO Senior Member

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    No it wouldn't (missed the lack of ready). When you disconnected the 12v you reset the long and short fuel trims to factory default, and a dirty MAF and or throttle bore/plate will often cause an engine not to start once you're able to 'ready'. Inspect, and if needed clean the MAF with the appropriate cleaner, and use a toothbrush dipped in vodka or rubbing alcohol for the throttle bore and butterfly plate.
    Both are more long term maintenance items, becoming dirty over time, and may prove to be an issue when reconnecting 12 volt sources.
     
  14. Patrick Wright

    Patrick Wright New Member

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    yes under the hood

    Would starter fluid even work if MG1 doesn’t even try to spin the ICE?
     
  15. Patrick Wright

    Patrick Wright New Member

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    the hybrid battery ECU located next to the battery and the harness have been replaced
     
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  16. SFO

    SFO Senior Member

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    No. This was me responding to the last line of your first post.
    Best to double check your "post breakdown" HV battery related work, and do the step by steps for the above obd2 codes (P3000 and P3004). At 280k the throttle plate and bore could be quite dirty, and the MAF as well, once you have the tools and supplies, it only take 5 or 10 mins.
     
  17. Patrick Wright

    Patrick Wright New Member

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    GOT the INF codes
    P3000-123
    P3004-131
     
  18. Patrick Wright

    Patrick Wright New Member

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    After testing resistance of the cables for p3004-131 I’m getting good readings from them. Considering the sudden issue while driving I’m going to go ahead and swap the Inverter assembly and not test the connections inside.
    I found one for $100 localish to me. I’ll follow up after nstall this weekend.
    Any tips? Or info regarding my codes?
     
  19. SFO

    SFO Senior Member

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    Just to use another App or three to scan with, or wait for that Autel to come in the mail.
     
  20. Patrick Wright

    Patrick Wright New Member

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    I replied with the INF codes from Autel on post #17