Mobil 1 0W16

Reference please.
I believe that is NOT true at all.

 

In theory a thicker oil conducts heat less effective and therefore could oxidize quicker which causes sludge to form.
But since the difference between 0W20 and 5W30 isn't huge when the engine is warm the effect will probably be small.


Reference:
What Happens if I Use A Thicker Oil in My Engine?

 

Sludge in engines is a non problem as long as you use detergent oil changed at the proper intervals.

 

Realistically the gen 3 can probably use 0w-20 all the way to 20w-50 no problem. It's really just about operating temperature range. Our yamaha boat for example is sold with 10w-30, but can use 4 or 5 different weights. We swapped to 10w-40 because it gets above 90 here and it says thats when it says you should swap to 40, and we never run around below 55F so 10w works (per the chart). Prius doesn't get pushed that hard so it'll use them all at just about all max temps, but have a minimum temp for 10w or 20w. Outside of that I've never noticed thicker oil helping much with oil consumption, just a couple % of mpg difference.

 

EU Manual shows 20W-50. So we’ve covered higher viscosity but not lower…

 

Azusa you have some misconceptions. The thickness of the oil has nothing really to do with sludge the quality of the oil at any viscosity does 100%.

I don't know about the G3 motor but the G2 motor is a very clean sludge free motor if treated properly and given a diet of high quality oil and a decent OCI.

Here's some pics of my G2 engine at 160,000 miles with a lifetime of 40 weight oil with a big zinc pack in it.
And it did not eat any oil either.

The important visual is notice no brownish burned oil patina on the block surfaces. That's what creates sludge is oil that can't handle the temps breaks down and off gases nasty hydrocarbons.

No sludge here:

 

https://toyota-club.net/files/faq/19-09-30_faq_zr-engine_eng.htm

Looks like Toyota says the car will run on anything. Although I will note it does says they spec 0w-16 for the japanese market, they also typically only drive cars for 60k miles before they are off the road. Also, noting the cst values for 0w-16 and 0w-20 a lot of the time there is a lot of overlap so they aren't much different. I ran 0w-16 once but didn't notice a different so i swapped back to 0w-20.

https://toyota-club.net/files/faq/19-09-30_faq_zr-engine/2zr-fxe_oil.png

 

I changed ours with the 0W-20 Hybrid oil last Friday. I never thought of trying to pull up a Japanese manual…..

 

so should I switch to 0-20 being in florida??

 

The only thing I ever heard was that the add pack for a Xw 4x vrs an X w 5x oil was that the add pack was dramatically different and incompatible.

AKA Best not to mix the 2 types of oil

Current year Camrys come with a factory fill of 0w8 so I doubt the very stout but light 0w16 will cause any issues in a car specd for 0w20.

Just listen to your car, if it gets noisy drivetrain, etc before you would normally change the oil, change the oil.

You will likely not get 10k miles out of 0w16 especially on the first fill, oil analysis might be a good idea to see how f anything funky is happening for science

 

I would just stick to 0w-20. We are splitting less than hairs at this point.

 

I strongly believe 0w16 likely has a stronger TBH than 0w20,

Give it a try, see if anything changes, NVH, etc.

On the spec side there is almost nothing different between 0w20 vrs 16, it’s all in the add pack

The trouble with gen3 is if your getting long in the tooth a 30 weight is likely advisable for other reasons

 

I would read at bobistheoilguy
There is very little difference between 0w16 vrs 20 shouldn’t be an issue since your motor isn’t worn

 

A little late to the discussion but FWIW that 0W-16 is a 6b oil and is not backward compatible (at least according to the API).

 

It can’t be mixed with a “normal oil” but may actually be more durable due to a different tbh and add pack

bobistheoilguy could provide better guidance

 

Well the American Petroleum Institute disagrees, as does the Petroleum Quality Institute of America. FWTW

 

They recommend mixing a 6b oil with standard base oils?

For warranty situations VW 504 oils are specifically not allowed under ACEA C3 yet there are oils specd for both.

AKA Just because the spec says it’s not a substitute doesn’t mean the spec in question can’t actually exceed the former, it’s just not tested for the application and thus can’t be recommended.

0w16 is meant to be much more sheer stable with exceptionally low chain wear. It is also intended to reduce LSP and it meets the SP spec.

Most of the differences between 0w16 and the former 0w20 SN are completely irrelevant to a 2010 Prius that is in good working order.

Even the weight ranges overlap.

So he likely can’t blow up anything but he also probably won’t gain anything.

This is like using Amsoil in a model T that specs plain mineral oil.
Over years lack of ZDDP might wear valve seats but other components should last longer, it ends up a wash.

My main concern is the add pack clash if he moves back and forth between grades, generally choose one and stick with it or you need to change oil much more often.

the oil chemists at bobistheoilguy could comment more intelligently but the oil analysis of these new 0w8 and 0w16 aren’t turning up anything very exciting, unless you like moly