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P3000 / P0A84 Code and Triangle Warning Light. Hybrid Cooling Fan loses power intermittently

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by 24gzerancr, Jun 26, 2023.

  1. 24gzerancr

    24gzerancr Junior Member

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    2007 prius with 150k. I have been dealing with this issue for months now. Toyota helped narrow the problem down to the hybrid cooling fan, telling me it wasn’t getting power. I Checked the wiring and everything as best as I could and everything was cool. Took it back to them for further diagnostics and they pinpointed an issue at the hybrid control ecu in the dash. They said that during testing, it was putting out power to the fan, but only intermittently. Of course power isn’t always going to be going to the fan, but when it was supposed to it was not always going. I was messing with the ecu to get myself familiar with the process to replace it. I pulled all the connectors and put them back and then once I reconnected the 12v and turned the car on, I heard the battery fan running. This really shocked me because I had never ever in all my time driving this car, (only around 2-3 months) noticed it running, even when I was trying to hear it. I went into Dr Prius and cleared the code and as soon as I did that the fan turned off, but then once I overrode the battery temperature to something super low through Dr Prius, I could hear the fan kick on. I had done this test previously and I never heard it come on like it did this time. Awesome, must have just been a loose connection this whole time. Only problem is the code just came back, reading as the same p3000 code I had before, even though I can now hear the fan turn on after driving for a while. Should I still follow toyotas recommendation and replace the ecu? I do live in PA so both salt from roads and high humidity are present which I know can contribute to corrosion, and on some of the connectors closer to the door panel by the ecu I did find some noticeable corrosion, but nothing on ent actual ECU that I would suspect to cause any issues. Is it possible that something else is causing this code to show up. Is it just coming up because it is a stored code and I need to clear it through a toyota scan tool or something more specialized than Dr Prius? Any help is appreciated

    Also just dropped over 1200 on a new abs pump which I plan to replace myself so my luck with this car hasn’t been great but I’m willing to stick with it for that 45mpg lol
     
    #1 24gzerancr, Jun 26, 2023
    Last edited: Jun 26, 2023
  2. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    If this is a 2007 we're talking about, the battery blower isn't controlled from the HV control ECU in the dash; it's controlled by the Battery ECU inside the battery.

    [​IMG]

    To make the blower run, the battery ECU has to do two things: (1) it pulls FCTL1 down, so the battery blower relay will close and supply power, and (2) it outputs a pulse train on SI to the battery blower motor controller, which pulse-switches the low side of the blower so the widths of the pulses control how fast the fan runs.

    The voltage on the low side of the blower is monitored by the battery ECU on its VM input to make sure things are going as planned. The higher the wanted blower speed, the lower VM should go. (For lower blower speeds, VM rises up closer to 12 volts, so there is a smaller voltage drop across the blower.)
     
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  3. SFO

    SFO Senior Member

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    There are related INFs (subcodes) for DTC P3000, you will need a capable OBD2 scanner or "techstream" to retrieve such.
     
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  4. dolj

    dolj Senior Member

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    In all your exploratory efforts, did you check the connector inside the right-rear fender above the actual battery fan for corrosion? If you have hairline cracks at the roof seam by the top of the rear hatch, you can get water dripping on the fan connector that eventually corrodes and causes unreliable power to the fan relay.
     
  5. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    I'd look at that white connector at fan in rear and or check temp sensors on
     
  6. 24gzerancr

    24gzerancr Junior Member

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    So why would Toyota recommend I replace the hybrid control ecu rather than the hybrid battery ecu? It makes me question the validity of their whole diagnostics even more at this point.
     
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  7. 24gzerancr

    24gzerancr Junior Member

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    The white connectors are good. A previous owner bypassed the connector by soldering wires but everything has continuity. How would I check the temp sensors?
     
  8. 24gzerancr

    24gzerancr Junior Member

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    Yes and everything their works as it should.
     
  9. mr_guy_mann

    mr_guy_mann Senior Member

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    At this point I would suggest using a (capable) scantool to command the fan ON then measure voltages at each of the 4 wires of the fan speed controller (while everything's plugged in and the car is ready).

    If there was a problem with a temperature sensor, then it wouldn't set the codes you have. That said I would use a scantool to view temperature data in the HV battery ecu.

    For this (limited) task, Dr Prius is adequate, but there's two other scantools that have "full" bidirectional controls. Here's a scantool review thread.
    https://priuschat.com/index.php?posts/3290690

    Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
     
  10. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    Well, it wasn't really "Toyota" recommending that ... "Toyota" published the service manual and wiring diagrams, which can be used, as I did above, to see how stuff actually works.

    Sometimes the mechanics at their dealerships even show signs of having read them.

    And sometimes not.
     
  11. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    Well you are in Pennsylvania so no telling what's really going on like others have said command the fan with whatever programming tool you're using if it's capable If not get somebody with TIS2 to command the fan to run see if the fan runs and all the speeds and work backwards from there like has been mentioned. Jumping out the white connector in the back is a pretty standard operation so that's been handled I think I remember you talking about this before. So that's out of the loop. So other than the fan speed controller and what have you that's pretty much it and yes I would think it would be the ECU back in the battery not up in the front of the car as the fan temp sensors plugs and all that are back there near the battery hello how one would think a computer way up in the front of the car would be handling this just by sure thinking about it seems kind of silly when there's a battery ECU right in the battery case in the back of the car with the battery the fan and all the rest of it. Just seemingly how I would think about it anyway why would you run a harness 15 ft up to the front of the car to handle that when the battery ECU is already back there with the battery but anyway.
     
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  12. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    I never ever hear my fan in the deep south and central North Carolina until after June and I'm not sure when it stops or me not hearing it begins again probably in October or November seriously. I listen for and can hear it not generally while driving but when I pull into the driveway to get ready to turn the car off whether I'm at my house or at a job doesn't matter as I pull in I'll hear the fan in the back running because I've just driven you know 35 mi whatever it is the van is running after October I won't hear that fan running when I pull into the my driveway or to a service call It's few and far between because the weather's gotten cooler I guess. And I do travel when it's real hot with the air condition on and the windows up so that cool air is getting drafted back to the back of the car across the battery etc. It seems the windows down and regular air flow even on a 75 or 70° day seemingly is not sufficient because the fan is put on pretty quickly when the air condition is run I get a lot longer runtime until the fan comes on obviously I would think. So the Prius is one of those cars where windows down and window ventilation is definitely not a good thing put the windows up and put the air on.
     
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  13. 24gzerancr

    24gzerancr Junior Member

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    When I did the testing the service manual did want me to look for continuity or possibly voltage (i don’t remember exactly) at the hybrid control ecu. I didn’t end up checking it because I believe it required a techstream setup, but that along with the recommendation from toyota leads me to believe that both ecu’s might be involved in the circuit for the cooling fan. Not saying I disagree with you but I just want to make sure I replace the right part if I do need to.
     
  14. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    What procedure were you following? One for P3000?

    P3000 is a generic code that the HV control ECU reports. (It can mean "hey, a little bird told me about something going on back at the battery ECU, you might check that out." But because the code itself is reported by the HV control ECU, they can't leave that ECU completely off the suspects list.
     
  15. 24gzerancr

    24gzerancr Junior Member

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    The manual was for a a P0A84/P0A85 code which is either low or high voltage to the battery blower. Since I made this post everything seems to be working good. I started my car this morning and no warning light so I guess it’s possible the the code did clear itself but I don’t want to get my hopes up too much. I’ll just have to wait and see if it still wants to give me trouble over these next few days. I have been hearing it run consistently since I made the post as well. It is always on a very low setting after I drive home from work, which checks out with how I have heard it should operate.