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Help me out here.

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Technical Discussion' started by LoomisMotorsports, Jun 21, 2023.

  1. LoomisMotorsports

    LoomisMotorsports Junior Member

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    Haha. Appreciate the input.
     
  2. LoomisMotorsports

    LoomisMotorsports Junior Member

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    Welp guys… when I’m wrong, I’m wrong. So here I am to eat some crow.

    thank you to Mr Guy Mann for reminding me to check the freeze frame data. Block 7 down to 12.20 set the code off again. When I watch it live it looks fine, but clearly it’s bad.
     
  3. Brian1954

    Brian1954 Active Member

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    Thanks for the update. Probably one cell in one of the two modules that make up block 7 has gone bad.

    What is your plan to fix the HV battery?

    Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
     
  4. LoomisMotorsports

    LoomisMotorsports Junior Member

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    I’m not quite sure yet. The “thrifty” (okay cheap) side of me wants to locate a single block and swap it out. Haha.

    a buddy does this kinda stuff for a living, so he’ll make me a pretty good deal to combine mine with a good core and rebuild it. Or I can hunt for a used battery from a newer car.

    I really really want a new Prime. I can’t really afford it for another year or so. I also don’t want to sell someone an absolute turd of a car. I love this car, it’s like family to me. So, I’ll have to think on it a bit.
     
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  5. ASRDogman

    ASRDogman Senior Member

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    That is very good of you! So many on here say just fix it another and pawn it off
    on some unsuspection innocent person and not tell them about all the issues. They are scum bags!

     
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  6. LoomisMotorsports

    LoomisMotorsports Junior Member

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    I appreciate that. I got so tired of working for scummy dealerships, I started my own from 2014-2020. It was amazing. The last year year ran me out of capital.
     
  7. LoomisMotorsports

    LoomisMotorsports Junior Member

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    Anyone heard of Exclusively Hybrid? They cell (see what I did there? Lol) single blocks for $35 that have been reconditioned and have a 6 month warranty.

    what I’m thinking is swap the bad one for now, while I hunt for a decent 4th gen NiMH battery. Once I locate a battery I’ll swap all my packs out.
     
  8. ASRDogman

    ASRDogman Senior Member

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    6mn warranty? Not worth it......
     
  9. Grit

    Grit Senior Member

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    Whack o mole is quite An entertaining game though.
     
  10. jerrymildred

    jerrymildred Senior Member

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    I don't think that's such a bad idea. While you're in there, you can inspect the wiring and bus bars. You'll want to grid charge it after reassembly to get all the modules balanced. Then you can shop for a good used battery while having a reasonable expectation that your old battery will not fail in the next few weeks while you shop. It is extra work, but it might be worth it if you can land a NiMH one from a totaled Gen 4 and transplant those modules.
     
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  11. LoomisMotorsports

    LoomisMotorsports Junior Member

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    Alright guys.. a few weeks of wack a mole and I’m back. Lol.

    I’m still getting low voltage from block 7… but I’ve swapped my best cells into block 7. Have put the new replacement cells in block 14.

    seems obvious that the actual cells aren’t the problem. All the connections from the sensors and buss bars are clean. Looked like the pins at the ecu were good and like new. ECU itself maybe?
     
  12. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    At the end of all these tests in the manual when you're doing these cast and eliminating things and you get down to the NG part it's always replace the computer for the given device so there's always that the HV computer is definitely something needs to be looked at the corrosion on the plug all that stuff.
     
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  13. TMR-JWAP

    TMR-JWAP Senior Member

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    Are you confident the modules you're swapping at "Block 7" is actually Block 7?
     
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  14. LoomisMotorsports

    LoomisMotorsports Junior Member

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    100%. I’ve numbered them 1,1, 2, 2, 3,3 etc.. with block 14 being closest to fan, sensors etc. I fairly certain that’s how they are ordered on a Gen 3. But now you’ve ve got me MF’ing myself for not also swapping block 8 just in case.
     
  15. TMR-JWAP

    TMR-JWAP Senior Member

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    100% way to be certain: #1 module is the module where the heavy orange cable is connected to the negative (-) terminal. This is ALWAYS #1.
     
  16. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    Except when it isn't, such as in Gen 1, where #1 module is the one where the heavy orange cable is connected to the positive (+) terminal, and page HV-9 of the manual says so. Unless the 2001 manual has a mistake, or I somehow misread it.

    Maybe it has been ALWAYS true for the generations after Gen 1. (I don't know for sure.)
     
  17. LoomisMotorsports

    LoomisMotorsports Junior Member

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    watching the confidence fade from the start of my prior post has had me laughing all day. Better than being mad I guess. Yes, I found one of your posts in a thread saying that.

    this makes the most sense for the issue I’m having. My other thought was to pull the cover and disconnect the sensor wire and see which block drops to zero volts.
     
  18. LoomisMotorsports

    LoomisMotorsports Junior Member

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    Just wanted to say thanks. Car is running much much better. Sometimes it’s the simple things you overlook. I was scrolling looking for the post where I saw to count the other way and the poster commented a few posts later, that he messed up, it was the other way. Lol. I should have scrolled a bit further.

    also, can confirm, Gen 3, block 1 starts on the negative side.
     
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