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Possible replacing just outer CV joint?

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by Tretor, Jul 12, 2023.

  1. Tretor

    Tretor Junior Member

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    Hello! I've browsed through the forum as well as Youtube, but can't find confirmation that it is actually impossible to replace just the outer CV joint. Can it be done without cutting the joint up?

    Accidentally made a tear in the driver's side outer boot, driveaxels otherwise in good condition. Went ahead and bought a new outer joint, having done the job on my old Opel Corsa without much hassle. When planning the job started to wonder how you actually get the joint off the shaft, and the went on the forums and reading either "impossible" or a horror story about cutting the entire joint up.

    Someone mentioned a clip somewhere but almost everyone else seems to agree it's not possible or at least not worth it. Why do they even sell outer joints if they're "integral" with the rest of the driveaxle?

    Should I just give up and order a whole driveaxle?
     
  2. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    Usually rebuilt drive axles are available in your area from a local rebuilder and places like Napa and other auto parts stores carry rebuilt joints they're cleaned you know whatever I mean they're only like $69.79 if they're really long and really sick maybe a few more bucks I I can't imagine but I think the Prius joints should be the same as most other Toyotas they are removable on the car and there may or may not be a clip you can there should be plenty of videos on most of the run-of-the-mill types of CV joint replacement there's there's at least three or four different styles of how they all mount up they're all very similar but usually people just replace the shaft get two new joints in the process buying the whole assembly and you're done for a long time usually Why not put a split boot on it some of the newer ones work very well It's not like we're running wide open all day and even so some of the new glue together split boots are pretty stout.
     
  3. SFO

    SFO Senior Member

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    Yes, and only buy new axles, which often cost less than the rebuilt option (in the states).
     
  4. Tretor

    Tretor Junior Member

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    European, axles are more expensive than just the joint here.

    Might have gone for a split boot had I known, I just assumed new joint was the way to go based on previous experience. Have been driving for some weeks by now so the joint is contaminated.

    I actually tried to repair the tear with gasket maker and vulcanizing tape. The tear was so tiny that i figured if there was ever a time it could work, it would be now. Lasted for a few days until I was on the highway in the rain.
     
  5. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    It's the rapid movement of the CV joint that makes repairs come apart it seems like unless they're serious like the newer split boots have these funky fasteners and all kinds of stuff that hold the thing together so when it's spinning around at 3,000 RPMs or 70 miles an hour whatever it is it doesn't just fly apart and end up all over the road I just a quick thought you know whatever of course you're putting a clamp all the way around the big and the small end it's just the middle that has these newer funky things. But they seem to work pretty good I you know I don't have any installed right now personally I use the old style glue together split boots successfully a few times You just have to give the glue time to dry and set rather than trying to run the car down the road 15 minutes after the repair.
     
  6. Tretor

    Tretor Junior Member

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    Thanks for the advice @Tombukt2, yeah I gave the gasket maker a few days to harden. Maybe I could have gambled and bought a split boot even now after driving with the tiny hole open, but since I already bought the new joint I figure I'll just give the part to an independent shop and have them install it. Don't have time right now for hours and hours of DIY trial and error unfortunately, would be a fun project otherwise.
     
  7. ASRDogman

    ASRDogman Senior Member

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    Yes, and you CAN just replace the boot.
    I'm about to do that today. When the sun starts going down.
    Remove the axel, clamp the shaft in a vice. Then smack the joint close to the axel to
    pop it off.
    There is a clip in a groove on the shaft that holds the joint on. You smack the end of the
    joint to snap it back in place.
     
    SFO likes this.
  8. SFO

    SFO Senior Member

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    Though late in the game, posting any pics for the rest of us would've been great. The clip is build in, and non removable or easily damaged?
     
  9. ASRDogman

    ASRDogman Senior Member

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    Penty of photo's/video's already.
    It is a nasty greasy job! Nasty! That grease is nasty and stinks!
    It is the same as the end that goes into the transaxel.

    Move the boot out of the way and smack the whole joint with a heavy hammer, while
    holding the joint so it doesn't go flying.
    When you re install it or install the new one you intall the axel nut so it's past the end
    so when you smack it will a hammer to seat it. Just make sure you get it on all the way.
    There is a bump/stop on the axel so you'll be able to know when it's all the way on.
    Then remove the nut to clean up the threads if you messed them up with the hammer.

    P.S.
    I jacked up the right side as high as I could, so when I pulled the axel I only lost a few ounce
    of the trans fluid. And since I put more in when I changed it a month or so back, it wasn't enough
    for me to worry about. But it the car is level, you'll lose more fluid and will have to fill it with what you lost.

    Since I didn't want to do the extra work, I raised the car higher on one side.

    It would have been a LOT easier and faster with a lift!!!

     
    #9 ASRDogman, Sep 11, 2023
    Last edited: Sep 11, 2023