Lower Control arm replacement. Trouble removing them.

FYI, the "EZARC Carbide Oscillating Saw Blades, Multitool Blades Quick Release for Hard Material, Hardened Metal, Nails, Bolts and Screws " didn't work. Wound up using a general purpose Diablo carbide blade and even then wound up just breaking the nut side since was taking so long. Also, the Diablo "1-1/4 in. Universal Fit Carbide Oscillating Blades for General Purpose Cuts" is what I wound up trying since fit better and had almost enough length to cut, though like I said I gave up and just broke the top nut and stud where was cutting.

Used a rounded bolt in a vice grip to beat the bottom part of the broken bolt up once I unscrewed the top broken nut seized to the top broken bolt section, then control arm came out no problem with a little prying.

Now, with the crazy lift suspension design, the new cross member going back in has been a chore and still yet to be completed though I think I see where I wasted time trying to insert the rear bushing straight. When was deepest inserted crooked looks like shoving a rod in from the bottom hole after using a screw driver to get the bottom of the bushing more lined up center on the bottom hole so then can beat or maybe prying with a pipe the rod and bushing straight.

I was thinking for the longest time, I can make a fork like punch tool to go around the metal bushing piece so to beat the top in straight.

 

Here's the aftermath for those that want to see some video regarding in the future. Nothing special and only if you have the time, plus there is the x2 setting. Now a days who knows, might help somebody who shouldn't be doing this and did:

(Front Bolt Aftermath)

(Control Arm Removed)

For install; I followed the video here, other than my front side bushing went in easier first then rear, where literally place a large screwdriver in first to align the bottom of the bushing with the hole the best I could get. Then inserted another longer same size M14x1.50 bolt, that I forget where came from maybe was the subframe bolt on a yard parts car, with the 3/4" socket on with an extension and wiggle back and forth into alignment. Then installed. Gen 2 and Gen 3 bolts look like they're the same.

I also found that the 2009 Corolla control arm fits as well as the dimensions are the same on the gen2's. Interesting researching I found the gen2 ball joints interchange with the gen3's also.

 

That would be me. I should not have attempted to remove the lower control arm but did. Not the bolt is partially out on the drivers side and I can't get it fully out of even back in. I've tried for 2 while days. I've given up. I'm taking it to a shop


SM-N986U ?

 

If you've gotten the bolts unscrewed and are struggling to pull all the way out; a little Harbor Freight pry bar like shown in thumbnail for the second video or even a open ended wrench that gets around the ~13-14mm diameter of the bolt, used under the bolt head to pry out while using the impact or whatever wrench to remove will aid I've found.

However, if you think you're not going to be able to and don't have a spare vehicle, might be best to send it to the shop or have a mobile mechanic come out and complete. Once the control arm is pry'ed, wiggled and beaten out, can be a struggle to get pry'd, wiggled and beaten in as well. Was about 5 days to break the front bolt free after soaking in Deep Creep and that long to say skip it and break the rear bolt in two spots after testing my patience using the oscillating tool to cut what I could through the upper most I could get at part of the bushing and bolt.

There are some Toyota Corolla, Matrix and Vibe videos that help also get some ideas on methods to use. Amazed me how effective the two dead blow hammer shocking the area and bolts, penetrant and impact on and off method was. I would have used that on the rear bolt, though trying with the head didn't work which was probably good seeing the rust pattern compromised the integrity of the head.

These can be a nightmare after reading and investigating as you saw, especially in the salty road states.

 

I got a call from my mechanic. They can't get the bolt out either. They are going to cut it. I'm starting to panic on how much this will cost to fix.

SM-N986U ?

 

Well $400 later the shop removed them. They had to cut and drill it out.

Then I ran into further issues with my suspension rebuild. I noticed my driver's axle had a bunch of tears in the boot, and the passenger cv axle decoupled and lost all the grease. I have no clue how the grommet slid off the inner joint but it did. So I had to replace my axles too. That took a few hours. The inner joint would not come out. Used a slide hammer and vice grips to get both sides out.

Car feels much stiffer now. But I notice the transmission is noiser than it was before. Maybe cause it's a new cv axle and fluid?

SM-N986U ?

 

I’m in the same boat. Seized front control arm bolts. Have tried all tricks but not budging. So I’m in the process of cutting the old control arms out. Grinder, dremel, oscillating tool. I’m currently down to the inner metal sleeve and it does look rusted stuck. Have to cut the sleeve out and then penetrating oil should be able to work down into the threads. Yeah I could have taken it to a shop but I’d rather spend the money on tools and at least I’ll feel accomplished once it’s done. It’s quite the ordeal though. I’ll update with progress.

 

I recall a Car Care Nut video or two where he swears you don't need to replace your CV Axles if the boot alone tears and grease is lost unless damage occurs to the actual joint.

I recall there being a kit with the boot and the grease, so can be repaired that way. Not certain what mean by "CV Axle Decoupled" other than your CV joint actually came apart and you were required to replace.

I know I have new brakes on my 2006 front end and after replacing the lower control arm and recreating one of the squeaky sounds where the drivers side sway bar bushing is the source, I'm finding my crunchy sound is coming from the brake and one other click noise that one mechanic thought was sway bar links needing to be changed first and then the struts where I am thinking maybe possibly the strut mount is funked up. Will have to get both sides up on jack stands and then jack the control arm under the ball joint up to see if I can recreate and pinpoint the sound just moving and also with someone turning the steering wheel.

Me and another mechanic looked at briefly when I was at his house picking up a SK Torque Wrench and we both couldn't recreate the sway bar link issue at least on the ground. I was able to in the air when I was replacing the drivers side one when changing the lower control arm. Granted, I replaced the drivers side with used, though is still stiff with no play or slop just like the passenger side one. Ball joints were good too.

 

The passenger cv axle literally fell apart at the inner joint. Where the boot was. Rocks or debris could get into the boot on the drivers side. Plus it was loosing lots of grease. It got all over the engine and burned a bit. Which doesn't smell nice.

SM-N986U ?

 

Did you notice vibration or symptoms prior and if so, what?