TIS info DLC 3 connector ver 15.30 026

Okay so I've just done the brakes on an '08 generation 2 replace the complete assembly behind the inverter just like I did on my car now I'm having interesting problems bleeding brakes. I keep getting codes b 1364 and 1365 It's a wheel cylinder and the pressure on two pieces I guess or something with the code sitting there in the dashboard lit up with TIS plugged up the DLC 3 connector is shown in the lower right corner with a green dot underneath it this is the original Toyota Mongoose cable It works. When I go into the ABS VSC trac section It looks like I have to choose everything individually to bleed like bleeding the actuator which is right under something to do with the power stroke due to bleeding right rear right left these are all individual button pushes It looks like it's not a sequence to bleed the brakes I have to push a button for every little operation that we want to do It looks like in the manual you start a brake bleed with TIS and it prompts you and goes through all these steps how do I make TIS begin that process?. So for instance I've select to bleed the air from the actuator in the menu talked about above when I click on that it brings up a little window in the bottom right of the screen that tells me break bleeding is off I think for the actuator I click the arrow to that off text now states on than a window pops up telling me that the ECU or whatever can't perform the function right now Make sure that all conditions are met and try again but I don't know what those conditions are that I need to meet. With the ABS VSC track and! Lit up my pedal goes to the floor If I clear those codes my pedals rock hard just like in my '09 that I drive everyday. Right now I'm just going to let it sit overnight it's on a downward angle like going extremely downhill. I did notice that with the car off nothing running all of that if I open the rear bleeder on the right rear it will drip all day No air no nothing's coming out of the drip rate does not change it's dead steady I watched the air come out of that hole I saw it with my eyes same with the left rear. I do not understand what I'm supposed to do to make TIS bleed the brakes looks like it's going to be a two-man operation somebody to push the buttons on the laptop and tell me what side we're on so I can crack the bleeder or whatever has to be done very strange to say the least there are no prompts in TIS you have to know what to push It looks like to me.

 

Oh its in the text sorry He bought it brand new from the Toyota dealer for 1200 and something dollars with the discount for purchasing online If not bought online it would have been 1762 I have the box the packaging and everything and the thing seems to be working it's not pumping like crazy and I can clear the lights and the pedal even gets better but it comes right back on a restart. there were no problems with the brakes or lights on when the car came here and when I saw the car initially it's in perfect condition beautiful car was breaking fine just the pump was running all the time The car has a slight stutter which they are going to play with. Sounds like ignition plugs or coils It's not bad it's just at idle. I thought the 1364 and 1365 and TIS talked about both pressures one in a wheel cylinder and one in the accumulator I thought which in this case unlike my '09 car is quite possible because this unit didn't come off another vehicle like mine did and when I removed mine from the used car I was careful to bend the lines carefully and keep it upright put caps on all the holes and keep it full of fluid which the manual strictly states on replacement Make sure you don't start the actuator motor internally until you have gotten fluid from the reservoir into the master cylinder portion on the firewall that you pump with your foot If that's dry it will pump air into the actuator assembly and become much more difficult to bleed. That's on page like BR3 or 4 in the manual.

 

I have BR3 through BR19 printed out and sitting right next to my CF19 toughbook which is on the passenger seat of the car I'm working on I understand about taking the relays out and not blasting air into or out of the actuator initially I have not really done anything per say yet. Because the manual BR3 through 19 shows I'm assuming what it would be screenshots but they're just line drawings of what should show on the screen The DLC and the little machine they show in the picture is like a little handheld thing I've never seen that before most TIS systems I've ever seen has been on a portable computer like a laptop that you flip open I'm not able to bring up the bleed process that starts with the first line drawing and then continues throughout BR3 through 19 of the manual and follows any of those line drawings or screenshots All I can do from the ABS VSC and TRAC menu is pick up individual things to bleed like the right rear cylinder the right left cylinder etc It doesn't fall into a pattern where I start the bleed process and then I get prompts and prompts and prompts and prompts no sir how do I get to there from the ABS VSC TRAC screen which is what it says I'm supposed to be in in the manual I can see the different patterns for bleeding the actuator that's in the list along with the right and left rear wheels come to think of it I'm not even sure I see the front right and left wheels but I'll have to look again. And it looks like this is a two-man operation one person sits in the car running the computer and pushing the pedal when needed I guess and another one at the dealership would be on the ground operating the zerks. Which are the fittings at each wheel caliper cylinder.

 

As an aside after letting it sit all night with the cap cracked on the brake reservoir. And after letting each wheel cylinder and caliper drip for about 8 minutes slow steady drip no changes in the drip speed or volume like regular gravity bleeding of a normal car. I come out this morning start the car scan the car I still have a 63 and 64 code I think for the accumulator and one of the wheel cylinders If I start the car while this condition exists it runs roughly. If while the car is on I clear the codes the engine cleans up and runs very smoothly no problem and the brakes work almost exactly as expected I can back the car out of my driveway drive up and down the street at 60 miles an hour stop pretty smartly and everything no codes nothing on the dash as soon as I pull back in my driveway and turn the car off. Then restart the car the loud shrieking noise come back and the lights are on on the dash with the same codes as above very strange so now when my other half gets back from half day of work I'll have her operate the pedal while I try to squirt off the rears because as of now it's the rears that are acting funny. If I get on the brakes relatively hard the backs don't sound like they should they're grabby.

 

Yes it seems to work reasonably well I found the complete menu or bleed instructions the whole thing thank you.