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prius abs replacement issue

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Technical Discussion' started by vincentnova, Jul 30, 2023.

  1. vincentnova

    vincentnova New Member

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    hi everyone
    i have a 2008 prius gen2
    the abs unit went out and lost my brake last week ,it felt more like an old car without booster assist.
    to stop the car the pedal had to go all way down to the floor

    i got an used abs unite from a junk yard , same number on each unit
    i replaced it

    with my scanner , at the bleeding process , i get the message '' lost communication''

    i decided to tried to bled the car more like a traditionnal way

    car "ON'' , someone behind the steering wheel
    im under cacked the bleeder , and someone hold and keep depressed the brake pedal
    i can ear the abs pumping fluid , im getting air out ect.
    the fluid is not going as fast in the rear , the front it is going very well

    after bleeding all the corner multiple times
    i turn on the car , the terrible non stop cliking noise that i had with the previous abs unite went away

    now brake are really soft , not good
    and i have the following code

    c1311
    c1341
    c1343

    any idee ?

    thanks
     
  2. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    Did you take the blue ABS relays out of the fuse box basically you're supposed to do that first then bleed the front right with the person sitting in the car pumping up 10 20 times holding down you crack the zerk fluid comes out you close redo three or four times on that corner You should see nothing but clear fluid squirting out no noise quietly no air. Now do the same with the front left put the relays back in The relays being out kept the pump from pumping so just your person in the car is pumping no electric option now put the relays back in and go do the rear basically the same way pump hold let the fluid go close it up have them pump again etc back in the back when you crack dessert You should see a steady stream flowing out the back without issue then do the other back should have the same situation. What's probably happened because you didn't pull the relays the first time You probably suck the master cylinder part dry and then pumped a bunch of air into the new to you ABS unit and it talks about this in the manual on page BR3 I think it is.
     
  3. vincentnova

    vincentnova New Member

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    ok....shooot...i didnt remove the relay..

    what should i do know ?????
     
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  4. dolj

    dolj Senior Member

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    What scan tool that looses comms are you using?
     
  5. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    So when you undid the lines from the reservoir that holds the brake fluid you just slid the one hose off and let whatever run out until it stopped or what have you or did you clamp it off? That's the tube that runs to the side of the actuator that actually loads up the actuator with fluid and then the other line from that same reservoir goes over to the I'll call it the master cylinder the stroke whatever the part that when you push the pedal the stroke goes through that part pushes fluid over to the actuator you just replaced If air gets into the stroke portion of the nonsense it will push that air when you reconnect everything and you don't bleed the stroke portion first by putting your fingers over the feed hole over the output holes which have brake line screwed in them you undo those pull the lines out put your fingers over that Make sure the reservoir is connected got fluid in it and then someone in the car pumps you release the two ports put your fingers back over them so on and so forth once straight fluid is squirting out of that the person in the car holds the pedal to the floor you apply the two lines to the stroke portion of the system now that's not got air in it. Then what I do is put all the hard lines onto the actuator Hook up the feed from the reservoir to the actuator make sure everything is clamped up The hoses running the down the side of the actuator that you took top to bottom loose you put back in reverse. You have already connected the feed from the reservoir If you put all the lines on about one or two turns in and then undo your clamp if you had one on the feed tube the fat one in the middle fluid will start to run in to the actuator and start running out of the bottom or lowest hard brake line when you see that happen and you see just fluid no air or anything like that dripping out of the bottom you tighten that 10 mm then the second one will start doing the same thing You watch it a few seconds drip drip drip close it off go up to the next one the next one the one over on the left side but on the same face the top one all those are now screwed down and had fluid running out of them when you screwed them down You've pretty much got most of the air out of the system at this point not to the wheels but to the actuator. Now if you take the relays out and you bleed the left front first just like you do a normal car pump up 10 15 hold down release zerk. Tighten it back up go again when that stops pissing air and you have a straight shot of fluid coming out every time your buddy steps on the pedal you hold it down lock the zerk. Do the right front same thing. Put the relays back in go to the back of the car rear left I mean. Now your friend steps on the break and holds it down You crack dessert and you should see fluid coming right smartly out the back If not close it have your friend get off the break push it down again crack zerk until you see a stream coming out of that back fitting You're not correct You will it'll shoot you right in the face if you're not careful. Here you should be finished more or less you should be able to turn the car off Make sure everything is tight and happy Wait about 2 minutes what everything settled down smoke a cigarette whatever. Now get in the car ready the car put it in reverse or forward or whatever and see if you have a brake pedal that feels normal and no lights on? The only thing you've missed here is the opening and closing of the internal valves of the actuator which is where you pump the brake pedal 30 times and 30 seconds and a red line goes across the screen and you can hear the valves in the actuator opening and closing I didn't talk about this because I didn't do this on my generation too but I did everything else and I had a perfect pedal and everything was working and drove the car now for the past 7 months stops on the dime ABS and regen work great have had no issues.
     
  6. vincentnova

    vincentnova New Member

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    i have what it is called : XTOOL D7

    i can read codes and everything....but for that particular task it does works....
     
  7. vincentnova

    vincentnova New Member

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    ok.. thats mean i have to remove almost everything again ahahaah

    your bleeding process make sens... i didnt pay attention to the second hose coming from the reservoir.....

    do you think that with a working scanner i could do it ?
     
  8. vincentnova

    vincentnova New Member

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  9. vincentnova

    vincentnova New Member

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    ok situation resolve

    first my scanner needed update ( 200 plus updates...)

    i followed the scanner step by step

    scanner offered 3 option ,
    bleeding system
    bleeding actuator
    bleed the stroke ..... master cylinder ( i forgot the name)

    i did all of 3 in this order . actuator , master and system.


    well to my surprise it didnt work...

    i looked at the codes , clear them all...

    and it worked ....!!!!!!!

    may be since the beginning i could have just cleared the codes..?? i dont know

    but know it works perfectly
     
    ColoradoCrow likes this.
  10. ColoradoCrow

    ColoradoCrow Active Member

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    Glad you got it going.
     
    vincentnova likes this.