Help replaced inverter cooling pump and now no power at all

The AM2 fuse is definitely what your symptoms are pointing at... But try charging your 12v battery or using a different 12v.

 

You can use electrical contact cleaner in those slots in the fuse box as long as it's plastic safe It will say that on the label of the electrical contact cleaner You want the little red tube like with the WD-40 so you can shoot it down in there pretty good fashion it dries very quickly close to instantaneously there is generally room in the fuse box for the overspray to run the stuff that it blows off of the metal pieces in the fuse box further down into the fuse block where it hits the plastic and runs to a corner and just sits there and dries up usually yielding the blade spaces for the fuses clean again and ready to go there are some small very thin abrasive pieces of metal kind of like files that can go in between where the blades from the fuse go and clean that area up but usually the contact cleaner will do fine It's good to put or for me it's good to put a little dialectic grease on the blades of each fuse to help with this corrosion some people never look under there until it's well way too late when you live in an area where there's high heat and then cold and lots of heat cycling and whatnot You should look at things kind of like this to see if corrosion and funny businesses happening You know it's an old car now 15 or so and it sounds like you have way too much apart You could have left the headlight and the bumper cover all alone and just use a 14-in quarter inch drive extension 10 mm wrench take the pump off of the gold bracket leave the gold bracket in the car undo the two hoses from just the inverter pump stick them right on the new pump stick the 10 mm through the plastic pump zap it right down to the gold bracket and now all you have to do is fill up but apparently you followed the instructions and have the light out and quite the disassembly technique for sure but that's good at least you know how it works and where it goes and you certainly don't have to do that to change bulbs in your lamps unless your HID and now's the time to convert the halogen new assemblies etc the plastic part or maybe it's not a good time this is the kind disassembly you will have to do If you have HID lights and need to convert to halogen housing so remember how this worked That's a very common repair on these cars if they have HID lights those are the expensive bulbs and what not to replace if you don't change them out completely good luck.

 

Do you have any power to the dash?
If not, check orange hybrid battery plug, be sure it's pushed in and slide to lock

Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.

 

I'm not sure I understand the suggestion.

If the hybrid battery service plug is not pushed in and slid to lock, you still have power to the dash, and a warning triangle, and a P0A0D diagnostic code to tell you that's the issue.

 

I'm not sure what you mean by a regular 12 V battery charger, but any automotive 12 V charger will do for now. If you have the choice to use a higher amperage on that charger, use up to 5 Amps. It will charge faster than at 2 A and is safe to charge at that setting.

There is no need to do all that disconnection, just pull the white plug with the thick cable coming out of it located at the front of the black block attached to the positive (red) terminal of the battery. Once you have done that the battery is effectively isolated from the car.

Make sure to connect the red clamp of the charger to the positive terminal of the battery and the black clamp of the charger to the negative terminal of the battery then you can turn the charger on.

Let us know if you have any more questions.

 

Many times it's easier to use the little white tool under the fuse box cover to pull the fuse out look at the middle of the fuse and see it's not blown and the fuse looks good and you stick it back in the hole that fuse is good The AM2 was the one you really want to be fooling with for the inverter pump If there's any question about the fuse just grab one of the spares Mark spares under the hood of the fuse box on the back side see the spare area locate that right under the lid and pick one of the spare 15 amp or 10 amp fuses or whatever it is and shove it in that hole If you think the other fuse you took out is not blown hold on to it and show it to somebody and they'll tell you If it's not put it back in the spare fuse section and leave it for the next time and maybe that person showed you what a blown fuse will look like or he blew it for you and showed it to you. The 80 that you got on the I don't know what maybe the battery charger when it does that on my Schumacher battery charger it's showing me that the battery is 80% charged and in a very few minutes on the I don't even know what the six or eight amp setting it'll be up to 100 You can watch the display it will show you on the low amp setting the volts and then the percentage and then back to the volts and then back to the percentage at least that's how my Schumacher battery charger works today and it's not very old from Walmart it's a handheld unit You can walk around with goes from I don't know 125 amp start mode down to two amp trickle charge and there's a setting or two in between on the lower settings if you connect the battery charger off just connect it to the positive and negative terminals and set the charger down in the trunk and watch it the battery charger will automatically come on show the percentage then show the voltage and then automatically if it needs to you'll see the amber light come on and you'll hear the charger humming It's trying to get the battery to 100% and proper voltage at 80% you're talking 45 minutes or something and you'll be at 100% and whatever voltage it says and that's that More importantly once you get the car to ready you want to use the voltmeter on DC volts to check that with the car not ready you saw 12.3 volts 12.1 11.9 whatever but when the cars ready on those same battery terminals with the ready light on you're looking for 13.5 to 14.5 just sitting there If you don't have this you need to find out why usually the converter in the inverter is not converting the 211 volts DC to the 13.5 to 14.5 volts DC that you need to be seeing when ready It's pretty much that simple.

 

Not sure if I missed it - but, any power to the dash?

I feel fairly fluent in my gen2 knowledge after tearing my down & the 1st thing I replaced was my inverter pump.

 

Wow! A triple post and then a quadruple post. The forum software is cookin' now.

Anyway, I recommend only using the Toyota brand SLLC coolant. It for sure works, and I just don't think it's worth the risk trying to save a couple bucks with some other brand that claims to work. Just too much money involved is it doesn't work.

Next observation is that if you have coolant in the tank, you have enough to test the pump. I wouldn't drive it very far, if at all, like that but at least you can test it. Also, if there's still coolant in the tank bleeding may not be necessary. When I change them, I typically only lose a couple tablespoons full. But if you drained it, then you'll need to burp it.

One more thing for @Tideland Prius. If you have time, would you want to merge this thread with 12 volt battery if I unhook the thre plugs on the battery | PriusChat? Same event and same original poster. Thanks!

 

I hope you got Toyota SLLC. While aftermarket coolant may be okay to use, it is never a good idea to mix two different coolant formulations. It could bite you in the butt down the line.

Yes, but ...

No need to do these two actions as separate steps. Connect the hose and then start the pump (as above). You can open the valve when you get back to the engine bay.