P3190 after running rich

Thank you for adding that.

I do not use bookmarks and don't always think of the right search terms to get to that link, otherwise I'd be posting it a lot more.

 

I don't use bookmarks, but my browser history autosuggest is great.

By now, if I click in my URL bar and type

w

that page is already in the top autosuggests. (Maybe that should be a little embarrassing. I used to at least have to type wiki.)

Likewise, if I type h one of the top autosuggests is

Blink (a/k/a Flash) Codes – How to. | PriusChat

and if I type obd2 I'll at least see

Gen2 OBD2 app review | PriusChat

among the top 10.

 

Did you find a way to charge the HV battery?

The fact that it happened immediately after fixing the exhaust manifold and changing the fuel pump feels like a clue. It seems unlikely that if you ruined compression it would show itself at the exact moment you did those things.

Do you have gas? Don't answer that! Just go put some in! Don't trust the gauge or your memory (especially with a new fuel pump).

There's no point doing more unless you're positive you have gas in the tank.

Check for fuel to the cylinders. I would spray starter fluid in the throttle body while it's trying to start and see if you can keep it running. You don't have to mess with the butterfly valve, I believe it stays open just enough to suck in starter fluid if you spray at the valve. If you didn't want to run your car with no air box then you could probably rig something up that sprays starter fluid in an airway connection with a straw.

After that just keep going through whatever basic no start procedures you can (spark, check exhaust again, compression, etc.)

Changing out that many parts is about the worst thing you can do. Especially if they're aftermarket. I would seriously consider putting back in all the OEM stuff and figuring out what the issue is rather than throwing parts at it. You are better off spending the money on diagnostic tools than just guessing parts. Even when you find the real issue you'll have all these parts that may be prone to failure (again, I'm assuming you're using aftermarket).

Also remember that to diagnosis it you'll need to keep the HV charged. Don't try to start it with a dead HV. You don't need a cooling fan to just keep it topped off enough to try to start the engine. To charge mine I just hooked up little "fork" connectors to the battery connectors as if I was back-probing. It was super easy. You really only get 3-4 attempts per charge, it can be time consuming so make sure you have a plan for every time you try to start the engine.

I'm just an interested layman who had a recent p3190 (bad gas gauge, no gas) though so take that how you will.

 

I remember reading a thread some time ago with P3190 code, and the person found that the catalytic converter was mostly plugged up. You have a lot of milage on your car, so you might want to check yours.

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I don't understand what your issue is, sorry.
But, you can NOT reuse the head gasket!
You'll have to measure the head bolts. They are stretch bolts and there is
a maximun length they should be before reusing. They are not that expensive to replace.
And would probably be a good idea to replace them.

Why not replace the fuel pump? Or at least test it. That is what the P3190 code is stating...
You may not be getting enough fuel to the injectors. If you pull the fiuel pump, the filter at the
bottom may be clogged. You can remove it and back flush it with carb cleaner.

 

It may be new, but you are still getting the code for it.
Maybe it's not getting enough power? Bad connection?
Perhaps you have bad fuel?

 

Trouble code P3190 does NOT mean that you need to replace the fuel pump. P3190 means "Poor Engine Power". There are many different things that can cause this trouble code. Not getting fuel is only one of the many things that might be wrong. Others are a bad throttle body, MAF sensor, crankshaft position sensor, etc. You should not replace the fuel pump without doing further testing when you get this trouble code.

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NOT good to PARTIALLY quote a statement...
"Why not replace the fuel pump? Or at least test it. That is what the P3190 code is stating...
You may not be getting enough fuel to the injectors. If you pull the fiuel pump, the filter at the
bottom may be clogged. You can remove it and back flush it with carb cleaner."

Also:
"It may be new, but you are still getting the code for it.
Maybe it's not getting enough power? Bad connection?
Perhaps you have bad fuel?"

P3190 points toward a fuel pump issue. HE replaced the fuel pump. For some reason he thought
it was the fuel pump, or the mechanic did. I'm guessing from the best I can understand his typing
because of the language barrier, he's still getting the code and the car in not running, or running well.
So SOMETHING is causing fuel pump related issue.

 

P3190 means the ECM has calculated how much torque it wants from the engine, and the engine is putting out less than a fifth of that.

That's what the code points to. It means the engine isn't running well. (At less than a fifth, really not running well.)

Absolutely any of the things that can go wrong with a gasoline engine and make it produce poor power, are the things P3190 "points to".

So, knowing that, you go down the list of things that can cause poor power in gasoline engines, and you test the things.

If your diagnosis implicates the fuel pump, then that's what points to the fuel pump. Not the code.

 

You should include ALL this information. If you only give some, you can't get a good
solution to your problem.
All you are doing is spening a lot of money changing parts instead of trouble shooting and
finding the problem. It could just be a bad connection....
You time, money, and car....

 

Was a compression test or leakdown test performed on the engine? I would do this first before taking the engine apart.

Was the catalytic converter checked for clogging? (See post #46)

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The freeze frame data you're going by has 36 parameters. The one you get from Techstream has over 160, and you really do need some of those 160+ parameters (which are actually missing from the BlueDriver freeze frame data) to figure out what's wrong with the engine. My suggestion would be to get your hands on a copy of Techstream first, and then follow along the factory repair manual.

 

Do not drive in maintenance mode. Only extremely short distances.