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Replaced Bad Cell but Still Get Triangle of Death

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Main Forum' started by Trevor Pickens, Sep 2, 2023.

  1. Trevor Pickens

    Trevor Pickens New Member

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    First of all thanks in advance to everyone who leaves useful, productive responses. You all have saved me thousands of dollars before, despite the responses of some people who say that it was hopeless, so thanks.

    Ok, so I replaced a bad cell after getting a P3022 code 'Block 12 becomes weak'. What happened was the car was driving fine, then all of a sudden would lose acceleration power. This is before replacement. So then I looked ubder the battery cover and noticed burnout (as seen in the photo) coming out. I also noticed the bus bar was blackened. I ordered two new cells to replace block 12. The voltage without load of the bad cell read 6.2 v. Bad indeed. I would be able to drive it for a mile or two, but then something would trip, then acceleration power became weak, and the triangle of death would activate.

    After installing the two reconditioned cells it still happens pretty much like above. Now thanks to the PC forum, last march I was told how to replace a reverse polarity problem and burnout of a few pins in the male Wire Frame #2 terminal. This time there is no reverse polarity or burnout in the male piece. The burnout is in the wire frame #2.

    Silly question: Is there a good likelihood that Wire Frame #2 (part #8216547040) needs to be replaced even after the cell? Perhaps there a crack in the wire plate or something that I can't see? Is there any possibility (if the problem were indeed with the HV Battery) that something else could be the problem? The code tripped after replacement was the very same thing as mentioned above (P3022 - Block 12 becomes weak).

    many many thanks to you all

    Just FYI, I did clean off the bus bars and nuts as much as possible.
     

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  2. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    Did you recondition the cells yourself?
    If so, and everything is balanced,
    I would strip the whole thing down and clean all corrosion and probably install a new wire frame
     
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  3. Trevor Pickens

    Trevor Pickens New Member

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    Just FYI, I did clean off the bus bars and nuts as much as possible but the black
    No I ordered it and the seller reconditioned them, or at least they said they did. I honestly don't see an issue with the cell itself. I haven't checked the Techstream yet for it, but I will and if I see something then I'll know. But I did order a wireframe. There's probably a micro-abrasion or fracture that's causing something to go haywire.
     
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  4. netsplit

    netsplit Junior Member

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    I'd check the voltage sensors and wire harness connector. My car last year had similar symptoms and reconditioning the battery failed to fix, low and behold the orange connector on the battery computer was fried, pins were burnt out. Replaced the battery computer and voltage sensor wiring harness and the battery has been fine since then.
     
  5. TMR-JWAP

    TMR-JWAP Senior Member

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    If the orange plastic is melted (appears like it to me) then you most likely have a poor connection. Heat is generated by current flowing through a resistance. Low resistance connections don't just get hot under normal current loads.

    Just order a new wire harness. They're about $60 from Toyota
     
  6. mr_guy_mann

    mr_guy_mann Senior Member

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    Well. I agree that there are a number of problems evident in that picture. The blackened busbar and melty orange plastic point to heat from a loose connection. The ring terminal for the voltage sense harness is oddly twisted or broken? The corrosion on the one nut might suggest that heat has caused that module to seep electrolyte around the stud.

    Also, it looks like more corrosion around the base of the modules where they mount to the case bottom?

    Lastly, if all you are doing is "just" replacing a couple modules, then it has a VERY low chance of working. Any replacement module has to have similar (measured) capacity and state of charge to the ones in your pack. Otherwise the block voltages will be too different under use and the battery ecu will set codes.

    Usually, all modules have to be "refurbished" at the same time. Some choose to use a "grid charger " to cycle all modules at once. Others use hobby RC chargers to cycle modules individually.

    Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
     
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  7. TMR-JWAP

    TMR-JWAP Senior Member

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    Good catch on all the corrosion at the bottom of the modules.
    Also, that nut with all the corrosion has pretty poor thread engagement compared to all the others. Somethings a bit wonky. And that sensor wire has either been soldered on or has gotten hot enough to melt any solder already on it. Without going and looking, I just don't remember if those come from factory as soldered joints on the crimps. That nut sure looks like it's been hot tho.
     
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  8. mr_guy_mann

    mr_guy_mann Senior Member

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  9. Trevor Pickens

    Trevor Pickens New Member

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    Thanks everyone for the response. So I tried balancing the modules by placing them in voltage-ascending order. That made it a little better but now the batter gets weak in other areas. I'm considering just buying a used battery on eBay, one with a return policy if it's defective or doesn't work in my car. I am also considering just buying a decent sized RC charger and reconditioning it myself. The problem is I damaged the temperature sensor wire "A" while doing the balancing and have to replace it. I will also need to replace that wire harness, so either way $500-$1000 for sure.

    I'm a little cautious on the reconditioning of it myself because if it fails, then I'm out $300-$400 and still have to spend another $1000 to get a used battery.

    Any suggestions? Just go with the used battery? I can't do $2500 for a new battery. That's too much for me right now.
     
  10. highmilesgarage

    highmilesgarage Active Member

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    you need to grid charge them after the replacement, this is needed to balance the voltages between blocks. This will not recondition the modules but it can be used to do that with some effort (manual discharging and recharging using 110 volt bulb)

    here's an open view of what's inside, I think you can buy the parts yourself and make it. It's a very simple circuit.