Replaced hybrid battery, warning lights came back on.

Not guaranteed, but it's likely a P0AA6 HV isolation fault. Somewhere in the HV system (likely a module in the battery) has a high voltage leak to the car body, or the battery case.

This fault can typically be cleared by disconnecting the 12v battery for a few moments. If it codes again while driving, it won't cause any drivability problems, but once you turn the car off, it won't let it go to READY again when you restart it. Unless, of course, you disconnect the battery again to reset it.

 

Yes you have to find the leak whatever is leaking battery acid the liquid out of the battery running down the plate or module and then hitting the pan and that stuff is live more or less now it throws the code and won't let the car ready because high voltage is getting to the frame of the car or to the frame of the battery tray and then to the frame of the car.

 

But it can do this anywhere high voltage or orange cabling is routed from the back to the front of the car for the code that specifies this stuff there are some codes and somebody can post a diagram and you can see the subcodes tell you where to look I realize you don't have any codes at the moment. But the diagram of where it tells you to look for the different subcodes just as a good idea to familiarize yourself with so you know the basic areas where these leaks are common The HV leaks that is

 

If you have warning lights on, you have trouble codes. You need a better OBD2 reader to retrieve the code(s).

I hope you have a warranty on the new refurbished battery that you installed.

Did you try disconnecting the 12v battery for a few minutes, then reconnect the battery, and then try to start the car?

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Well at least you found the leakage area maybe with the inspection lupe you may be be able to see something . It probably has to heat up.

 

You might be able to put modules in the oven one by one at like 120°, that shouldn't hurt them but if there's any leaking going on that would be a probably a good temperature where it would be happening that seems to be a target temperature folks are trying to stay under. Of course don't let them dwell in there a long time put the light on to the chair in front of the oven and watch them You see them start to turn wet put a piece of tape on it mark it on to the next one or two.

 

You used two inadequate readers. As has been said already, you need to use a better reader.

You replaced one bad battery with another bad battery.

Use your warranty and get a better battery - unless you want to devote your life to fixing batteries.

The no-worry option is a battery with all new modules.

 

And of course your time If you make $60 an hour at your job or whatever you're spending that same money playing whack-a-mole with your toy battery in the back of your old Toyota so there's always that. Some of these battery rebuilding places do very good work today so there's always that possibility they have machinery some training some understanding so on and so forth No you can't beat brand new that is a fact but 750 bucks or $700 for a rebuilt battery that can make 4 years is not too bad of a deal especially if that rebuilt battery has new bus bars new nuts everything's been cleaned up nicely that needs be any modules that are no good or questionable or replaced etc can be a decent deal especially for somebody who's going to keep the car on the road and in the wind like a delivery driver these things seem to make a huge difference in the Prius All of my cars that are kept on the road with Uber eats and Amazon and that sort of thing seemingly rarely have battery problems all the other things we have go on seem to happen but the battery seem to do a lot better when they're kept on the road Not running all day and all the time just kind of like it I'm not saying you need to start the car in the morning leave the air conditioning on all day until you park the car at night not at all.

 

Most parts stores (and some repair shops) do not have scantools that are capable of reading codes and data from all systems on a Gen2 Prius.

Here is a thread that reviews several scantool apps and devices. Some are capable for all systems, and two can retrieve INF sub codes (which give more details about a fault) as well.

https://priuschat.com/index.php?posts/3290690

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Holy bejezzus.

If the HV leak to the case was due to electrolyte seeping from a terminal and doiwn the side of the module, it will be cured merely by cleaning the module.

If the HV leak is due to a micro-crack in the plastic housing allowing electrolyte to contact the threaded metal insert on the bottom, all you need to do is use a voltmeter to measure between the terminals and the insert to see which one has a voltage reading. It should be 0 or near zero VDC. If you find one like this, and you want to really save money. all you need to do is put a layer or two of good quality electrical tape over that insert when you reassemble the battery, and DO NOT install the fastener for that module. The tape will insulate the insert from the case, and one missing fastener will have no impact on the integrity of the module mounting.