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Gas engine runs for 2 minutes

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Care, Maintenance & Troubleshooting' started by Jimnade, Sep 12, 2023.

  1. Jimnade

    Jimnade Junior Member

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    Every year, in last week of May, we disconnect the neg side of 12v battery and leave our 2010 resting in garage until our return in Sept. This year, like all others, I connected a charger to the battery...after a couple minutes it indicates "FULL." After reattaching negative cable I press start to reawaken dash panel. A minute or two later I start the engine. All is great! I pull out to top off tire pressure and gas engine stops after several short minutes. Car is only running off of battery. Gas engine will not start up. I pull back into garage and wait a while. Same thing happens; I drive 1/4 mile and gas engine stops.

    We stopped by Toyota yesterday to purchase Pink Coolant for inverter cooler. It was at the low point and we raised it to "F." It was just something noticeable, so we topped it off. The Toyota service tech told us to disconnect the battery and leave it off for about 20 minutes. Sooooo, we did. No positive results, still the same problem.

    Our Prius has been a real jewel for over 13 years...not one problem, We drive like two old folks -we are-, keeping it garaged for all of it's 74,000 miles...but now it seems to be demanding our attention.

    I'm not adverse to having it towed to our dealership, but I'd sure like to be a little knowledgeable about possible causes...prior to giving them a green light. I thank you all for any advice offered...truly we will be grateful beyond words.

    Jim
     
  2. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    Are there any lights on the dashboard that are staying on Amber or red and do you have a capable scanner I'm assuming probably not?
     
  3. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    So when this condition is present what happens if you step on the gas and floor it the engine doesn't start to run I'm assuming you're looking at the display?
     
  4. Jimnade

    Jimnade Junior Member

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    Hi Tom!
    No red or amber lights. Dash looks normal. Lower left is the READY light.
    I do not have a scanner. However, I am not opposed to purchasing one if that might help isolating. I do have a small one I use in our F250 to reset the "Check Engine" light.
     
  5. Jimnade

    Jimnade Junior Member

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    Tom...thanks for your replies!
    I did not try that. I will tomorrow. Thank you for the suggestion. I've been leery about getting too far from home...I have no idea how far the car will travel on batteries alone. Gulp!
     
  6. rjparker

    rjparker Tu Humilde Sirviente

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    That behavior is normal especially in the summer. The engine runs for a few minutes to partially warm itself up.

    The simple test is to drive it faster than twenty. The engine will kick on.
     
  7. sam spade 2

    sam spade 2 Senior Member

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    IF that means that you still have a 13 year old 12 V battery in it.......
    VERY likely that is your problem and a new one will fix it.
     
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  8. Jimnade

    Jimnade Junior Member

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    Today, as always, it started right up. Backed out of garage and engine runs for a few minutes. Drove down our driveway and joined road, punched it to get over 20 and gas engine did not kick in. Once we returned to garage area, we followed YouTube and placed it in the "Maintenance Mode". Once here, the gas engine continuously ran. Other than the dash indicating it was in this mode, there were no other warning lights present. When we returned car to normal, our irritating issue continued...engine will run for a couple minutes then we are on battery only. We thank you again for any thoughts. Jim
     
  9. Jimnade

    Jimnade Junior Member

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    We did purchase, from Toyota [$$$], a new 12v battery a couple years ago...and I thank you for the thought. Jim
     
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  10. Jimnade

    Jimnade Junior Member

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    Thank you for the suggestion. We just pulled it out to the road and punched it, traveling over 20...sadly, the gas engine never kicked in. Rats! Jim
     
  11. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    It's not unusual for the engine to shut down a relatively short warm-up. It won't come back on, say if you goose the gas pedal?

    Ok, sounds not so good.

    FWIW, I think (not 100% sure) if the car's in "Ready" (fully on), you could remove the 12 volt battery, and it would continue to run.

    Just for giggles: check the voltage, with a multi-meter, with the car off?
     
  12. rjparker

    rjparker Tu Humilde Sirviente

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    Laws of Physics Kansas City.jpeg

    Somehow you are doing the above. No warnings, the engine starts, runs in maintenance mode but you are upside down.

    I would drive it further and faster. Give it the ol’ gundy. I have a feeling the hv battery is well charged and it needs an Italian Tuneup.
     
  13. Jimnade

    Jimnade Junior Member

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    It sure seems like all should be good. All panel indicators look good and it runs fine in the Maintenance Mode. However, since we've done a few road tests to get it above 20...we are down to 2 bars on the battery indicator. I'm getting nervous about being stranded. I do have the ability to to pull it back up, but that becomes a little too "country"...the car's in mint condition and I'd hate to mess it up with an "oops!"

    I just rechecked the auxiliary battery voltage; 12.44 with the neg cable lifted, 12.39 chassis ground to positive.

    Is there a way to recharge the high voltage battery pack...I wonder if it charges while idling in Maintenance Mode? Also, the 12v aux battery was purchased Oct 2016 and has a 7 year warranty. Is it possible the battery is weak...even though the voltage appears to be good? Boy, the mystery of hybrid vehicles...we've loved the car, but understanding it is way above my analog mind.

    Thanks again for your input.
    Jim
     
  14. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    Yes you need to have the battery tested by the fancy big box store that big that little portable thing they hook your battery to is the $3,000 battery computer car computer if you will It's quite accurate another way is to borrow somebody's load tester which is simply a few coat hanger size windings of metal behind the metal grill when you throw the switch it essentially shorts the battery through about 4 what looked to be maybe six or eight gauge pieces of metal they turn red hot when the meter gets to the cold cranking amp rating of your battery You let go of the button and see how long it takes to recover back to 12 solid volts which it shows you on this analog meter If you can't pass this test this could be problematic for your system. Another question so when all this is going on then you're not seeing on the energy monitor no orange lines coming from the engine going to the transaxle and continuing over to the electric motor or you see them but they are not moving and if you lift up off of the gas pedal do the blue lines work and show regenerative braking? These seemingly would be important things to be seeing I understand not wanting to be stranded but I would have to find out and what are you You know the engine's not running because you don't hear it I guess?
     
  15. Jimnade

    Jimnade Junior Member

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    Thank you again and again. I have, now, removed the battery and we're planning on taking it to the Toyota dealership tomorrow. I actually thought we bought it a couple years ago...when in fact, it has been almost 7, and apparently that was the warranty of the battery. Soooo, we'll see what happens. Perhaps, as you eluded to, the stored power might dwindle...and...right now I sure hope that is the case.

    Thank you so very much for your -and all others- input. Having this forum is so very helpful.
    -Jim
     
  16. Jimnade

    Jimnade Junior Member

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    IT WAS THE BATTERY!
    This morning I bought a new battery from Toyota dealership; $263.00. I was going to have the service dept run a load test...but then I thought, why? If they tell me it's bad I'll buy a new one, if they tell me it's good I'll buy a new one. Sooooo, I just took the old one to the parts dept, he gave me a 10% prorated credit and off we beamed.

    To our delight, the car appears to be acting like its old self.

    Thank you all for your support...we are very happy!!!
    Jim
     
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  17. ASRDogman

    ASRDogman Senior Member

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    I would suggest you put a 4amp or less charger on the battery overnight.
    They don't charge them at the dealership or parts store. This was you KNOW it has a FULL
    charge on it and the system won't have to work extra to charge it.
     
  18. sam spade 2

    sam spade 2 Senior Member

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    Some do and some don't.
    I usually ask to see a voltmeter reading before carrying one
    out of a store.
    An AGM that reads below 12.8 is probably not fully charged.
     
  19. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    In my toolkit:

    Clore's Solar BA5 (latest iteration BA9) 12 volt load tester (not the old-school style; this is a small meter, purely electronics). Testers of this ilk are similar to what dealerships use, just not as robust or full-featured. You need to hook up directly to the battery posts, and enter some info about your battery, specifically the style (AGM vs flooded-acid vs Gel etc), the spec'd Cold Cranking Amps (or one of several similar values) They're around $50~60 USD.

    JNC 660: jump pack. They're around $150 USD I think.

    CTEK 4.3 (latest iteration 5.0): a compact smart-charger, rated 4.3 amps. They're getting kinda steep, over $100 USD IIRC.