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Coolant Boiling in Maintenance Mode

Discussion in 'Prius v Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by DruidArena, Sep 15, 2023.

  1. DruidArena

    DruidArena New Member

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    My 2012 has been going through a lot of self maintenance lately but this recent one has stumped me.

    I got an overheat warning last night. Oil & coolant levels are good. I relatively recently replaced some items in the coolant system and heard that rushing water sound behind the wheel last night, so I thought there might be some air pockets. This morning, I put it in maintenance mode, raised the coolant tank, and let it run with AC and cap off. I was seeing bubbles come up, but about 15+ minutes into it running, the coolant tank started overfilling. Fans weren't running with AC off, so I turned on the AC to make sure the radiator fans worked, and they did. Not losing coolant, no white smoke - so pretty sure it's not head gasket.

    Relatively newly replaced items: water pump (2.5 months), radiator (2 months), EGR cooler (1 week), and air filter & MAF sensor (3 days).

    What have I missed that could be causing this boil/overheat?
     
  2. rjparker

    rjparker Tu Humilde Sirviente

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    Counterfeit or aftermarket water pump, bad thermostat, engine coolant temp sensor not turning on fans via ecm, air in the system after earlier repairs or fans not going to high. Possibly clogged system due to previous coolant sealant.

    I would check water pump flow into reservoir bottom tube after warmup, control fan speeds with scanner and monitor engine temp sensor (7C4) with scanner. This is different than the temp picked up at the Exhaust Heat Recirculation Sensor (7C0) sensor.

    Obviously ensure you are not losing coolant.

    Prius gen3 Cooling Fans.jpeg
     
    #2 rjparker, Sep 15, 2023
    Last edited: Sep 15, 2023
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  3. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    What's the miles and how long have you had it?
     
  4. DruidArena

    DruidArena New Member

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    ~227k miles - I've had it about 5 years. Got it used at around 112k.
     
    #4 DruidArena, Sep 15, 2023
    Last edited: Sep 15, 2023
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  5. DruidArena

    DruidArena New Member

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    Thank you for the list - few Q's
    1) Does that mean there are 2 different ECT sensors?
    2) Not exactly comprehending the scanner concept, could you expound on that point?
     
  6. rjparker

    rjparker Tu Humilde Sirviente

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    1. Yes
    2. Obd2 Scanner like Techstream to monitor and control
     
    #6 rjparker, Sep 15, 2023
    Last edited: Sep 15, 2023
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  7. DruidArena

    DruidArena New Member

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    Yeah, the scanner thing will probably have to wait until I can afford it. Uber is my job and this kinda halted my work till I fix this.
    Ok, so I assume the 2 ECT sensors is the one just under the EGR cooler, and the one under the wipers where the bleeder used to be pre-2012? Which one is 7C4 vs 7C0? Is there a usual suspect as far as replacing?

    If it matters, I got the AISIN WPT19 water pump from Rock Auto, so chances seem low of it being bad, I'd think?
     
  8. rjparker

    rjparker Tu Humilde Sirviente

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    Has it been overheating for 2.5 - 3 months when you started changing parts? Check engine lights? Thermostat changed? Flow into the reservoir? Sealer used?

    Odds are against the sensors being bad. Thermistors are nearly bulletproof unless open or shorted which will immediately throw codes. Better odds are the rest of the system including the water pump. The engine sensor is on the engine.

    These cars demand a scanner to properly diagnose. For example you really can’t test the fan speeds or know how long it has been running over a “normal” 190-208f before it trips the warning light.

    If the car is your livelyhood I would pay a dealer or respected mechanic to diagnose it. Running hot is a guaranteed head gasket or engine.
     
  9. DruidArena

    DruidArena New Member

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    Long-term, you're absolutely right. Unfortunately, I'm in a "right-now" barely making it situation. Unfortunately, this particular overheat doesnt throw codes, just the overheat indicator. Thankfully, my friend had scanner with some basic datastream functions (iCarsoft MBII) so I'm looking at that now.

    I've replaced the ECT sensor on the engine side and cleaned the sensor near the non-bleeder (it had some kind of gunk on it). So far, idling on maintenance mode hasn't made a fuss with the coolant, and the reader didn't go over 96°C, even when revving. Reservoir didn't fill up at all.

    Took it for a drive in-neighborhood (<30mph) with AC running. Temp got as high as 110°C near the end of the 10 minute drive. Heard some water noises behind the wheel. Will need further testing.

    Now that I have a way of reading the coolant temp, what is an OK range? I was reading operating twmp should be 90-95.
    Do y'all know at what temp it throws the warning light? (Google failed me when trying to find that)
     
  10. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    Warning light at 120 ℃.
     
  11. rjparker

    rjparker Tu Humilde Sirviente

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    110c / 230f is too high anytime much less after a ten minute 30 mph drive.

    I monitor temp continously and have never seen temp higher than 208f - going up a steep 1/2 mile grade after an hour of 70 mph with ac in 105f ambient. Normal high speed driving at 100f ambient and ac is 195-200f.

    Prius P10 Scanner.jpeg
     
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