ChapmanF or other: I need help with no start - Jon in Hartford CT

Hi - 2007 Prius here - 300kmiles orig inverter, motor, trans, etc.

> Car was parked with HV pack removed for 15 months (with 12v battery maintained at 12.9 volts).

> Finally found time/$ to get a fresh pack, and install yesterday. But now that everythings back together, car isnt reacting or "clicking " on when i press the round START button......Headlites work, interior light works....beeps when fob inserted...but no radio...no dash...and no led green or orange comes on when i press the start button.
Tried jump pack to be sure it wasnt the 12v batt.
All fuses are good - fusible link block is good - 12battery is good....fresh hv pack is delivering 230v

I dont have Techstream, but I do have a Scanguage II (but im not sure how to config it to scan for codes.

Just wondering what would prevent the round START button from even entering the ACC led-mode? Can my Scangauge II do a proper code reading (if you need that first?).....or is there something simple im missing that I can check first before I do that? Im happy to make a video and/or describe in more elaborate detail what happens when I try to start it (but i basically covered it here i think) --- PS Everything worked when i removed the HV pack before summer of 2022....

 

orange safety-interlock is IN place and properly engaged. (but according to this video, it doesnt seem the HV pack is actually needed for the car to turn on!).

 

12.23 at the battery posts in rear....12.19 at fusebox up front....im gonna trickle it overnight at 2 amps and see if that changes the reaction....but seems odd that it wouldnt come on when the 14.5 volt Lithium jump-pack was attached....battery is just a few years old.... I will try again tomorrow to see if higher 12v battery state changes things.

 

what voltage reading do you get at the jump point under the hood?


>> 12.6 ...but even with jump pack attached and reading 13.2V......nothing happens when i press START button

 

It's not I have the HV battery completely disconnected in a car right now and I have all the dash lights on and everything in the car works of course you're not going anywhere but that's not the point. Does your car ready or do you have a display gas gauge and the zero is on?

>>> car does not "Ready"....no sound, no clicks, no lights, no LED shows on the round START button - nothing. (just continues "beeping" when fob is inserted)

 

(SKS car/fob - fob battery may be low or dead)
Left of dash shows red "Door Open" led light (because door/s are open. > is it ok to attempt start with door/s open?)
Right of dash shows red-flashing car"KEY" light
When fob is inserted key-beeping starts
interior light is on and bright
headlights turn on when manually engaged on stalk

>> Press round START button: no clicks, no led lights on button, no dash, no display, no radio
,....no change

System at 12.7 v nominal and at 13.5 volts with jump pack enacted.....still no change.

AM2 and all fuses good in front hood fusebox....good pink coolant levels

I have not checked under-dash fuses....

Is there a flow chart that shows what the computer "looks for" before allowing the car contatcors to engage into READY mode?

SHort of calling a tow truck to take it to a Teschstream dealer and pay $$$ - whats a good Scan device at retail (Harbor Freight? AutoZone? Amazon?) that could help me?

I guess its possible corrosion set in on the ECU molex connectors - I could try re-seating those?
or maybe mice?

Final note (that should not affect this): the heads up flouro display was starting to go bad before this process...but the car always started immediately when the round button was pressed....even on mornings with a "black display"....so i dont think? that further degradation of the caps in that assembly would now prevent READY state all of a sudden....

 

Thanks so much - didnt know how to do that!%

 

Much appreciated thoughts, Chap. Thanks - this seems to be the Smartkey Gen 2 flowchart youre referring to?
https://attachments.priuschat.com/attachment-files/2020/01/180104_ST_-_1NZ-FXE_Starting.pdf

 

Guy - would you mind a phone call with a couple confidence-check questions - im thinking my next step seems to be to get the AP200 & app, so i can properly read the codes and follow the diagnostic steps in the ignition-pages......

after 11am. - im at 203-910-7903 - Jon March

 

well, i was having combo meter blackouts when i put the car up on blocks 16 onths ago....but even when the meter was pitch black, the car always started. (to shut it down requiored 2 presses of the Start/Off button)

If the combo display gets worse than just "intermittent,".....does that eventually stop the ECU from starting the car at all??

Jon

 

(FYI: My goal asking here, was to avoid what happened in this similar-issue thread with Techstream: )
2007 Prius wont start, no response, new 12 v installed. | PriusChat


(re: combo display lights being capracitor-deprecated/black & possibly? preventing IGN.):
Normally no, but you have dismissed most other issues and can't see a check engine or other warnings.
Most issues not dismissed: biggest ones all checked...voltage was checked, all engine compartment fuses checked and replaced correctly, possibility of oxidized pin connections suggested as well as mice.
Secondary issues now being addressed with upcoming Autel scan

I would get Techstream on it.
That would require a costly tow to a more costly dealer, no?.
....others suggested a DIY scan with an Autel AP200 & follow codes in IGN process manual - im leaning to that.


Otherwise you are guessing and want others to do the same.
Yes - but only in hopes it was something off the top of experienced peoples heads who know far more than me. Not asking for miracles, just some possibilities to check without going scorched earth towing to a dealer.

Often troubleshooting goes bad when we assume a step is good and never retrace our steps.
Agree, which is why im not assuming anything, just asking for possibilities aside from an intelligent scan on a dead car that wont power up!



Fresh meaning new? Modules replaced by who?
New Nexgen V2 lithium cells - 100% balanced and installed with all new copper harnesses and nickel fasteners

How are you measuring 230v?
Fluke DVM - on the supply-side of the traction battery output contactor solenoid posts

The orange disconnect has been "engaged" by others without realizing a final slide is required.
Nope - fully engaged by me...properly!

I thought all fuses were checked.
Engine compartment fuses were checked...underdash ones I relays will be checked today.

A common issue is pulling fuses and getting one put back in the wrong place.
It may then blow or an empty place is not supplying power.
Tested in circuit - not pulled - all are showing 12v on both sides of fuse and on bussbar

 

LOL - I can see that happening! - Im not perfect, but im pretty vigilant about pics & documentation !

JON