2007 Inverter cooling pump

As mentioned, the dashboard (speedometer, warning lights, fuel gauge, etc) staying dark is a common fault on a Gen2 Prius. That assembly (Combination Meter) has a failing capacitor on the circuit board that sometimes prevents the cpu from starting properly.

If you are good at electronics repair you can solder in a new capacitor. Otherwise look at texashybridbatteries.com.

Besides not having any gauges or warning lights, as the problem gets worse it can prevent the car from turning on or off correctly.

If you need to replace the inverter coolant pump, I recommend using a Toyota part from a dealer (or reliable online source). Lots of counterfeits out on the web, and there are mixed reviews on many aftermarket pumps. Some fail after a year, some randomly just "don't pump", and some are ok.

Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.

 

The fakes that I have installed which by the way look exactly like the original fail within 90 days. I have like three of them sitting here in a box One of them I have busted open to look at the circuit board and the components along with an original that I sliced open to look at the components nothing looks cheap flimsy or junk that I can tell you even the fakes or the non-Asian models the internals don't give me clues as to why it is what it is and I'm pretty good at looking at things I can spot cheap jump for the easily and very quickly and it's pretty wild because of the internals of the two pumps not really anything to see It's quite interesting.

 

What about it I have a 51 battery here sitting in a Prius and the adapters it allow it to go in and on the Prius no matter I'll stick a motorcycle bag or be back there if I need it for a few No big deal I don't think this car uses 25 of the 45 amps available in the battery or something I can't be very much and what you were describing the battery going up and down turning it on turning it off with the inverter on it's about 14 5 13 7 to 145. That's all pretty normal no doubt when the inverter or the hybrid battery car is ready you're getting what the hybrid battery or whatever the inverter system sends to the hybrid battery which is between high 13s and 14 and a half that's what you should see with your voltmeter even on a crappy battery or with no battery in your multimeter just hooked up to the terminals and the battery sitting on the charger on the floor in the shop. What I was asking is when you fire up the car do you see on your dead dash the check engine light come on and then go right off? What you should that should still work You just not seeing any of the rest of the dashboard like the speed and the gas gauge and so on and so forth That's usually the three capacitors that Texas hybrid replaces on the main board just behind the piece of glass mirror that you're looking at the speedometer on which now is a big black square which I'm assuming you're trying to rectify generally when it gets to the point to where it's black like that go to the back of the car leave the positive connected move the ground around where it connects to the body of the car not on the battery there's a little plate that you can slide off where you change the light bulbs for the rear of the car that little plastic plate if you push down and pull back or push into the car that plate will come off you can just throw it in the trunk now if you look with a flashlight or you're good eyes do that hole you just made by removing the piece of plastic you'll see the ground wire bolted to the car Lefty loosey that about three turns and move the eye back and forth from the body till you see the door open light come on now zap the 10 mm back down on the terminal Make sure the light still on close the trunk go open the door see the door open light You will now have a display If you make that door open light stay on You will have a display every time you start the car whether you remove the button in the door and leave it hanging so it doesn't ever get pushed so with the car doesn't know the doors closed that light will stay on even in the winter overnight will not cause you any strife unless you're 12 volt battery is already crap I've done this for like two and a half years.

 

Have you tried going back and loosening the ground at the chassis underneath the headlight access or the access for the rear tail light on the right side move the ground put the door open light on now you'll have a display Is this what happens in your car? If so this is the Tell-Tale signs of the CM monitor display issue which is I believe involves three capacitors at least that's what's pictured on the one they sent me. If that's the deal then that's what you have going on You can play with the battery all you want to and you may find the display sometimes works many times doesn't If you don't disconnect things when you're displayed does come on your gas gauge should be correct and so should your mileage If you disconnect things that will zero out your mileage and consumption and all that MFD stuff you do notice in your MFD your mileage isn't counting as well as your miles per gallon because that is all run through the CM monitor. Now I will tell you this my 09 car which led me to this forum I think has had the CM monitor problem since I bought the car it's never had the code like my other cars had the code I changed the display everything is new My 09 never had the CM monitor code It used to be all four days at a time I know how many miles a day I put on the car by heart by my service route so on and so forth so it's never an issue for me if the display is out who cares after playing around with this car trying different displays from cars with 60,000 mi owned by little old ladies it barely ever been out of the garage except to go to the grocery store and high mileage displays from cars with 300,349,000 mi All of the display I drove around with this car with the upper glove box and the power button dash pieces out for a year I can change the display in 30 minutes I've had four displays in the '09 there are days still I can come out to the car hit the power button If I don't see the check engine light immediately this happens in the 10th of a second I hit the power button again shut everything down apply the brake and hit the button again and the check engine light is automatically there in the display lights up and it may stay on for months but I can tell when I push the power button if I'm not going to have a display and in my '09 all I have to do is push the button again to shut everything down which hasn't even started yet and immediately break and apply the power button again and the thing boots up like a brand new one and that's after having all these different displays in the car it happened with every one of them. I think there's some kind of redundant power supply issue to the monitor itself when you push the button there's two 12 volt feeds and if one of them is missing the display won't light or something along those lines is going on there's no way my '09 near perfect car can do this with every display they all can't be bad it's just not probable. But other than the '09 all the other generation twos have had the CM monitor code in tech that I can view that code I changed the display that mess is gone forever.

 

Many times I have read posts where replacing the 12V battery has made the CM capacitor problem "worse" - ie the dashboard was less likely to turn on.

Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.

 

If you have a group 51 battery in the car, with the correct size terminal clamps and all the fasteners are tight, and the battery was tested as good, why do you want to piss away $200+ on another battery? It makes no sense to do that. I have a 2007 that has a group 51 battery just as described and it works flawlessly. Yes, when that battery goes bad, I will likely install the OEM replacement, but until then, there's no need.

If you disconnect the 12v battery for a minute or two, then reconnect it, are you able to start the car?

 

You should always make sure a new battery being installed It's been charged not just pulled off the shelf and stuck in the car that can work and the Prius can charge it. But some people may not drive the car long enough to get it completely charged up could take an hour depending upon the state of charge You may want to grab yourself an AGM charger capable charger during the Christmas hoopla they're on sale.

 

I have a Schumacher branded thing it's $125 amp max it has AGM gel and standard battery settings It's completely automatic if you wanted to be put the terminals on the battery and plug it in It will read the battery and go to charging if it needs it and then it'll move to maintain with a green light all automatically no input from human at all except to connect the leads to the battery I think the thing was $69 works very well and it has the car starting feature which we don't need for the Prius obviously.

 

Yes.

Get one with a 4-5 Amp output. That's all you need for a Prius AGM.

 

But if you want to charge a pretty low battery reasonably quickly you might want a few more amps they're not really costing you any more money The noco stuff is pretty costly comparatively speaking to the other brands that are out there they're all made in China. I have a noco GB 70 which I use a bit. Now I can buy that equal amount of starting power instead of $180 now it's about 60. Chargers are similar I have a little 8 amp Schumacher thing that I use for power sports equipment and the six to 45 amp handheld multi-chemistry charger I use for batteries that have fallen lower and need more AH for a little faster charging especially in the cold weather.

 

just drive it for an hour or leave the car park in ready state, it will charge the battery. I seldom charge the batteries I bought from the store but I make sure to drive it longer (for conventional cars) after the install.

 

Depending on how discharged the battery is, you may need 10 to 15 hours of driving (or just sitting in park in READY mode, it'll charge at about the same speed either way). One hour doesn't do much of the job.

 

If you read the review thread that's linked in post 18, it mentions that Torque cannot get codes from most systems on a Gen2 Prius. It does show several scantool apps and devices that can.

I see no reason why your fault won't happen again. Yes, a bad inverter pump can - will set a code, but it usually takes a "long time" from startup until the inverter gets too warm and it codes. Depending on local temperature and car use, some have gone days or weeks before the car set a P0A93 (inverter too warm). It would be much sooner in Arizona in July with the A/C on, but still more than a couple miles.


Since you can't pull codes, it's just guess work.

Best of luck to you.



Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.